MH77280Z

I am thinking to put like 1G coolant in the system before testing?

Is there some kind of machanism inside this vacuum tank? i assume u mean vacuum tanl S1 and S2 cannot be reversed. I am trying to figure out the orientation of the tank to make sure S1 and S2 are at the right location. Per my pic, i assume my S2 is connected to S1 on the tank which is wrong correct?

Heater valve is manual and can be opened with the temp knob. I assume i need to open the vacuum water co*k as that's the area which needs to be tested? how do u get vacuum without running the car?

Guys two questions: 1. in pic#1 the S vacuum line connects to the control assembly inside the dash. There is some sort of a check valve in pic#3 mounted right under the magnetic valve where this line connects per pic#2. I assume it is the smaller end facing towards the firewall where this S line connects too? The other end bigger end will connect to magnetic end D and M via 3-way line. Is my understanding correct? Also, does it matter if the S1 and S2 lines on the vacuum tank are reversed?

How do you do that?

Putting this thing back in was even worst. I have noticed when you move the temp cluster knob from cold to hot the steel cable under the instrument panel bends and create issues. Is this known? anyway i had to put some WD-40 on the heater valve and its seems to go UP/DOWN. There is no real rust around it just some slight white calcification i believe. I am nervous to get the system filled up. Hopefully nothing leaks. The L hose that goes from vacuum co*k to heater core is so tight i wont be able to reach it without again draining the entire system if it leaks. Hopefully not. One more thing, the new vacuum co*ck has a slightly different orientation for the vacuum tube to connect and I am falling short. Is there a place where you can get the extra foot of this vacuum tube and possible a connector to extend it? Will be putting the blower in tomorrow and plan to fire it up.

Any tips on making sure there is no air in the coolant system?

Car has been running perfect, no issues with the oil pressure. Whats the concern about oil pressure with the dash out? just no optics?

Guys, I have my dash out, will there be any issue if I start the car without the dash? I mean I need to test the new water **** and that nothing leaks before i put the dash back in. Blower and blower housing is also out. The car will be in neutral off course. I cannot think of anything, dash only has the gauges etc. rest of the harness I have not touched.

This one from the non functional clock. Say: LIFE12V34W

You are right. I looked at one from the inside and say a green dome. Pulling the bulb socket from the back - it is a clear bulb.

May be you are right but my car is pretty stock with a 50 year old dash. Took it out this weekend and all bulbs are green. With the exception of ones in the center console. But center console was taken out and work was done on it by the previous owner. So they might have been green originally. Anyway whatever suits your taste is what matters. I like the green accent as it gives these older cars a more warm vibe.

Factory color was green though.

I will check, they might re-manufacture the current one or can point to someone who can. Meanwhile I found one through craigslist in a decent shape, arriving this week.

Mine is 77 and it is a bit different.

Any idea guys where to get the two water hoses, one is a U and other is kind of odd L shaped. I have a feeling mine might be reusable, i am pretty sure then water droplets were from this water co*k. There is plenty of rust on it and might have some pitting which was leaking. I have a spare one which is much better shape which i plan to install tomorrow and run the car to check for any leaks.

Plus there is another temperature operated valve next to it, like one was not enough.

This thing was quite a work. I avoided the nightmare as the two screws holding this too the heater core were rusted like hell. Luckily with some penetrating oil and patience they came off.

Hey guys, so my dash is all ready (pending clock restoration). Windshield weather strip and this water **** are the only two jobs i need to get done before putting the dash in. What is a good sequence to take this one out as it leaks when i put the car in heater mode. Hopefully there is still vacuum (in think there is as i can move between hot and cold). During hot it leaks very small drops, good enough to rust my floor. Problem is my new carpet is also installed. I am thinking remove the pipe from the engine and let the coolant drain as much or should i drain from under the radiator? Once that is done, put a ton of towels under this thing and carefully take these pipes out and let the heater core drain in a bucket or something? what u guys think?

Water **** is totalled with rust

I am mainly looking to upgrade the gauge lights and the one near the AC / heater controls and also in the center console (transmission and cigarette lighter bulb). Are they all same size? (just asking i am sure this info is available in the FSM). Want to know the groups experience.

Found it in the FSM. Guys, while the gauges are out do u recommend changing the bulbs? they are a bit dim. Any recommendation of a plug and play bulb which will not add any extra load on the electrical system but a bit brighter?

what is the best way to take these out? Just pull out?

Decided to just decouple the turn signal switch and it gave enough room to lift the dash. Took only Speedo cable out from the back. Didn’t had to take any tachometer wires!!!

Do I need to remove these 4 bolts holding steering column to firewall?