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BRE IMPROVED 240Z
Managed to find a couple of the BRE cast aluminum adapters recently. https://www.ebay.com/itm/317146279997?_skw=Datsun&itmmeta=01K22V8ZHVKDFD1YZ2R67FYVVG&hash=item49d764303d:g:5ZgAAeSwYvNokRsm&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4MHg7L1Zz0LA5DYYmRTS30kCoKfIwvB5xxhwqLfQsN2nCxk2lPQjX3YKVMYwrxYpvqUj44P448Su9W0IOyv9xeIAWjVrCeP8Fr2QU1TY9e7pNLlaT0BG9tj5zLexgY7byGGuH2yDK0OiyU3vR5fkXWKKN3IQdcSYmXNnnPXjRhXS2So%2FSPgQZXBaYiIZLQCVX3X7Vna%2FqJOosiRjsA69htfeltceq2Cf7k2gmZCY6J8H8hKNyQdK0sBnsetXbfjln%2FMlmTzAAStHKN2erVuANzBT9%2FZ1nAhivjZ33R04f%2B9W%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4z5o9uQZg
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The OG 240Z - Reanimation Project
One thing I never skimp on is fire extinguishers. I'd go with this one for your Z. https://www.h3rperformance.com/products/halguard-pro-halon-clean-agent-car-fire-extinguisher-1-25lbs Not cheap but very effective. Love the registration tags, part of the cars history @Captain Obvious Mine still has the original license plates from when it was new in Roseburg Oregon in October 1970, found the original plate frame from the selling dealer Burness Datsun. Even got a copy of the original title from the DMV.
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The OG 240Z - Reanimation Project
Well done @Captain Obvious another one saved! I did the same with my August 1970 that languished in a garage from 1983 to 2018. Engine was seized and brakes stuck on. Dragged it home and rebuilt the suspension/brakes and got the engine going. I use it as my beach bomb to go windsurfing. One day I'll restore it but until then it gets used.
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240Z Factory battery cable
I know you are a stickler for details @26th-Z so happy to help.
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240Z Factory battery cable
Here are the original Nissan parts fresh out of their bags. Note the negative side only has the protective rubber cover. Yazaki was the supplier and their name is screen printed on the cables, just like on original spark plug wires.
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240Z Factory battery cable
I don't think they are quite perfect @26th-Z there was no protective cover on the negative terminal on the early 240Z, just on the positive side to stop a short with the inspection cover.
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240Z Factory battery cable
Do you want me to measure it? You'd be amazed the stuff I've found on EBay and Craigslist!
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240Z Factory battery cable
Keith buy a battery bolt and round off two of the corners with a grinding wheel, https://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-W1680C-Battery-Terminal-Bolt/dp/B0076EVKO8
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240Z Factory battery cable
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Brake work
I had one of my masters re-sleeved, due to pitting in the bore. Works great with new seals and been trouble free for over 4 years. I'd rather rebuild and refurbish original components if they can be, newer parts don't seem as well made. Thanks for checking your clamps, I'll go with what was on the Green 5/70 BAT 240Z as it was low mileage and relatively untouched.
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Brake work
@Captain Obvious I'm always on the lookout for NOS OEM parts, sometimes they have the right part number but are not in Nissan boxes...you just have to know where to look. I have a spreadsheet with all the period correct cross reference numbers and keep a look out for those on a regular basis. It seems the Nissan part suppliers of the day back in the early 1970s had no qualms about selling the same part to Lazorlite/WorldParts/BeckArnley. I wont try and reproduce the coating, too many other parts to restore at the moment but will keep it in mind for the future. I will use the master cylinders with the cast in letters on my 8/70 and 10/70 240Z, the engraved one will go on the 5/70 for period correctness. The fun anomaly I have discovered in the wire clamps. Some people say they should be all clear zinc, other say gold zinc...what's correct. Again referring back to the Green BAT 5/70 240Z, it has gold zinc wire with clear zinc screws...go figure that one out as it's totally original. However the large ones on the radiator hose are clear zinc.
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Brake work
@Captain Obvious I've been buying them up from Ebay, they pop up every now and then. Last kit was in Feb this year, I got the pistons/seals/springs/washers for $85! Yes the piston did have the black coating, it was already coming off when I stripped the cylinder down. I hit them with the brass wire wheel to clean them up. I'm not sure the original coating from 50 years ago is still available so I'll keep them as it is. Hopefully nobody faults me for this. Nothing wrong with pedantic, you guys have been doing this longer than me and are more knowledgeable. Thanks for pointing it out. I have a rebuilt cylinder with the early engraving, I'll make sure I use that now I know it's the correct one. I have two of the cast type so I'll keep those for the later August 1970 and October 1970 240Z I have. Anyone know the exact changeover date? I'm using the Green May 1970 240Z that went for $310k on BAT as my reference along with @Zspert for his intimate knowledge with the cars. Again appreciate you correcting me and guiding me to the correct parts for my restoration.
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Brake work
An original early brake master cylinder was also sourced for the restoration. The ultrasonic cleaned it up nicely and I've disassembled it and replaced all the seals with original Nissan/Tokico parts. I just need to bleach the plastic reservoirs so they are nice and white. It should look like this once complete.
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Brake work
Continuing on from rebuilding all the original suspension components, brakes are next in line. Fortunately my May 1970 240Z came with the early brake rotors. I have derusted them, machined to tolerances and painted them to original spec. The hubs are cleaned and painted and I have NOS OEM bearings for them. A set of original Nissan brake pads have also been sourced. The brake calipers are the correct date coded set for 1970. I have degreased them in the ultrasonic, cleaned off all the corrosion using a acid solution. A light sandblasting and high temp satin clear finish give them the factory new look. A NOS OEM Nissan caliper seal kit is used to finish the build. All bolts and fittings are re-zinc plated. My goal is to use all original/OEM parts in my restoration.
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To replace or not replace ball joint.
What a load of rubbish, there's no way the ball can wear out that much! The Japanese engineers that designed that part knew enough about metallurgy to design the part so that never happens. The cheap stuff now coming out of some countries may be a different case, but not the originals.