SpeedRoo

The most difficult thing in trying to restore a 240Z to 100% factory standard is trying to get NOS parts that match those used when the car was built. For a commercial operation constrained by time it's not always possible. There's quite a few parts on this car that have used later bits because that's all that is available. It shouldn't detract from the car and what S30.world have achieved. I'm sure @christoffel will appreciate any feedback on areas that we may think need changing or improving. The road to perfection never ends but as long as we are willing to listen to feedback and make corrections along the way the destination gets closer!

I believe what you are referring to is the "chipseal" that the factory applied to the underside of the chassis. "Undercoating" was applied by the dealers in the USA to add extra rust protection and add to their profit margin! As you say, the original factory applied "chipseal" was blacker in colour and applied very unevenly with lots of runs and build up. If anything S30.world got it a little bit too perfect!

Great to see the S30.world 240Z up on BAT. Hundreds of photos to pore over and examine. Best thing is Chris @christoffel is willing to listen and improve things where possible. Lessons learned on this car will help him get closer to a 100% correct restoration in the future. So many little details to get right but at last there's people out there with the passion that want to do it correctly.

I'm down in the Gorge on the Oregon side. If you were closer I'd give you a hand to get it going again. The cars are very straight forward and easy to work on, try and find an old school mechanic local to you that understands cars from the 1970s. As they say it's not rocket science. You could probably get by with just draining the tank and flushing it a few times with new fuel. Then disconnect the hose in the engine bay and pressurise the gas tank with an air hose to flush out the line. Fit a new filter and you should be good. The car may not need as much work as you think.

I did that with an original Oregon sold 240Z that sat in storage from the early 1980s to 2020. The engine had seized but eventually came good, I drained all the old oil and filled with automatic transmission fluid. Once I got it running I drained that and filled with regular 20W50 oil. I ran the carbs through an ultrasonic cleaner and flushed out the fuel tank and lines. I rebuilt the brakes with new seals in the calipers and drum pistons. The car runs like a rocket now.

Actually the part number tells you the length. 08213-82810 The length is 28mm.

If the vendor had returned to the car to original he may have realised a higher price. He could have sold off the competition parts separately. The bodywork and paintwork to blend the headlight cowls in with the body certainly detracted from the originality along with the paintwork to the front of the car after the battery exploded spilling acid. The price it sold for seems reasonable considering the condition and non standard parts.

Talk to you paintless dent removal expert, they should be able to sort it.

On the 10k BAT Blue 1972 240Z there's a signature for the inspector on the back of the "OK" decal in the rear quarter window. I've never seen this before, was it standard practice at the Nissan factory and does anyone know when it started and ended?

In early 1972 I believe the Datsun competition parts were only available in the USA through the two race shops campaigning the cars. It was until 1974 Datsun Competition parts were widely available. If you study the receipts closely you will see the pricing corresponds with the catalog for the race shop on the west coast of the USA. The installing dealer would have purchased from them and then fitted the parts in the dealer workshop. The name of the 240Z owner is visible on the car purchase receipts, he obviously was a bit of an enthusiast with a Shelby Cobra, Sunbeam Tiger and Lotus Europa in his collection. BRE Z parts catalog 3_71.pdf

You can download it here for free and print out the sections for the 240Z. https://240260280.com/Docs/TSB/Technical_Bulletins_1969_1972.pdf

I use Trico 44-200 Plastic Windshield Wiper Blade Refills. I just cut them to length and fit them into the existing blades. They come up on EBay fairly regularly. Roo

@Patcon love the lightweight interior, will make for one fast Z! Congrats on the first drive after all your hard work.

In the S30 service manual Nissan refer to it as "grease reservoir" (component number 13 page ST-10). On page ST-15 Instruction # 27 in the right column, they write "Fill the grease reservoir with multipurpose NLGI No. 0 grease, and attach the reservoir to the rack housing".

@zKars I had a closer look at my original and can't find a vent hole but I understand what you are saying.

Appreciate the nice words, Roo

I don't see why not, they just unscrew. The original could be refilled when the grease got low, these do the same.

G'day Dan, have sent you a PM. Roo

The reservoirs are hollow inside like the original, designed to hold grease just like the original. All the bits I have done are fully functional. The metal 3D printed gearknob came out really well, will post a picture next week. I replicated the Yazaki wire sets, did up 4 sets for myself. Hardest bit is the screen printing on the wire. With the amount of time they took there is no way I could sell them without making a loss so just did them for my cars.

The grease reservoir screws into the steering rack, Part # C4366-0501P (# 25 in the parts diagram). They were used up until July 1973. The originals get brittle and brake off at the thread, none have been available for years. We modelled up a CAD drawing from an original (brown stained part in the photo) and beefed up the section where the thread connects to the body. They are reproduced in oil/grease/UV resistant plastic and have the original correct JIS pipe thread to screw into the hole in the rack. Have done 50 of them so if anyone needs some let me know by PM. Prices is $40 each plus postage.

The original breaks where the screw goes through, as can be seen in the top left dove tail the metal is very thin. There was a left hand 80531-E4101and right hand 80530-E4101 part, used until July 1973. Nissan stopped making the part and replaced it with a symmetrical piece that fit both sides, bottom parts in photo, part # 80530-N3400; it requires different screws to fit. We modelled up the original style and added 1mm of extra metal to prevent breakages and the original screws are used. They were CNC machined from aluminum then tumbled to get the smooth finish the original had. We did up 50 sets, PM if you would like a set. Price is $80 for a set of 2 for left and right doors, plus postage.

Second reproduction part was the door dove tail. The original breaks where the screw goes through, as can be seen in the top left dove tail the metal is very thin. There was a left hand 80531-E4101and right hand 80530-E4101 part, used until July 1973. Nissan stopped making the part and replaced it with a symmetrical piece that fit both sides, part # 80530-N3400, it requires different screws to fit. We modelled up the original style and added 1mm of extra metal to prevent breakages and the original screws are used. They were CNC machined from aluminum then tumbled to get the smooth finish the original had. We did up 50 sets, I'll post an ad up in the parts for sale section of the forum.

Finished off some of the reproduction parts I need for my 1970 240Z. First up was the grease reservoir that screws into the steering rack, Part # C4366-0501P (# 25 in the parts diagram). They were used up until July 1973. The originals get brittle and brake off at the thread, none have been available for years. We modelled up a CAD drawing from an original (brown stained part in the photo) and beefed up the section where the thread connects to the body. They are reproduced in oil/grease/UV resistant plastic and have the original JIS pipe thread to screw into the hole in the rack. Have done 50 of them so if anyone needs some let me know, I'll post an ad in the parts for sale section.

Good to see someone else rebuilding them. He did miss out one part on reassembly, there's a disc with 4 holes in it that goes over the shaft to restrict the flow of grease into the rubber boot that he deleted. Also the Nissan boot has a bleed nipple on it, they are still available.

I'm fortunate that I have multiple daily drivers, rather than just one. In summer time the 240Z is my daily, along with a R53 Mini Cooper S, a 1999 Mazda Miata Sport, an Aston Martin V8 Vantage and a Toyota GR86. For load hauling and snow runs the Subaru legacy wagon gets the nod. Between my wife, my son and myself we need at least 3 dailies!