Reinier

Hi guys, Dos anyone know the torque specs of these bolts (see pic). I can't find them in any book or online. Thnx!

Thanks guys. With your tips I figured it out. Unfortunately my timing chain needs replacing so I guess that will be one of the winter projects.

Thanks 240260280 ? I already removed the plugs but I will try the crank bolt. That might make it easier to turn the engine.

I have the service manual, the Haynes manual, two books on the L-series engine and two other 280Z service books. My questions are not the type of questions that are answered in these books.

Hi guys, I'm adjusting my cam/valve timing on my L28 and since it's the first time I have a few questions I hope you guys can answer for me. 1. Which of the 5 marks should I use on the camshaft pulley? See picture. Some sources say the first and other sources say the second. It doesn't really matter with setting the chain on the camshaft but it does matter a lot with reading the timing notch and grove on the camshaft sprocket. Which brings me to question 2. 2. Reading the timing notch and grove on the camshaft sprocket is clearly a very precise thing but how can I do this accurately? Just 1/20" (1mm) rotation on the crank makes a lot of difference on reading the notch and groove. 3. I'm turning the engine with a socket on the camshaft bolt and It's impossible for me to turn the crank small amounts needed to line up the crankshaft pulley marks correctly. I need to apply quite some force to get it to turn and than it shoots a long part. I did remove to spark plugs so it's not the pressure build up in the cylinders. Is this normal or is my engine not rotating as smooth as it should? Or is it because I'm using the camshaft bolt instead of the crankshaft bolt? Thanks in advance and sorry for the noob questions but I haven't done this type of engine work before.

Thanks for the info guys.

Hi guys, I pulled my valve cover off my 1977 280Z yesterday for the first time (bought the car this spring) and when I looked at the inside I had a bit of a nasty surprise. They have used some kind of sealer or glue along the side of the bevel which has hardened and is now breaking off. It has the consistency of burned caramel and I guess I will have to pray that the broken off pieces will not destroy my engine... I'm going to remove all that crap and I was wondering if I should put some new sealer along that edge or if I can just leave it clean. If I need to put new sealer there, what product should I use which will not fall apart or come loose after a few years? Thank you! Reinier The Netherlands