z3beemer

View Advert 1973 240Z Complete Auto Transmission Complete Automatic Transmission set up from a 1973 Datsun 240Z. Included with trans is dip stick, flex plate (flywheel) with spacers, shifter and linkage, torque converter, and bellhousing cover plates. I removed this from my 73 restoration that I installed manual trans. I don’t have a lot of history on this trans. I know it did work because I drove the car with it in it a few times. It did shift late but that may have been because it was low on fluid or some other minor problem. I didn’t spend any time troubleshooting it because I knew I was going to be switching it out. Local pick up only. I’d be willing to ship it but it would have to go by truck and I’m sure the shipping cost would be more than the asking price. I live in Northwest Indiana. Offered by: z3beemer Date 01/18/2025 Price $250 Category Parts for Sale  

Switch it over to 134a and a Sanden (or similar)compressor. Check out Auto AC Solutions out of Texas. Call him, he's a great guy. 877-542-8192. He sells complete kits but you can also purchase individual parts . Web site is autoacsolutions.com. I bought a complete HVAC system from him for my 73 240Z. It was a lot of work installing it but it works great. Every time I called with questions; he was very helpful. You would probably have a much easier time since your car already has AC. Most the AC parts are universal (compressor, condenser, filter/drier, etc.). You may have to change hose end fittings or use adapters if you're going from R12 to 134A. If you try to stay with R12 expect to pay $$$$$, if you can find any.

When I did the restoration on my 73 240Z I purchased a Pertronix ignition to replace the points system. I had problems with it at the time, so I decided to go back to the points system temporarily until I got everything lined out. Got the car up and running late last year and everything seem fine. After setting all winter with only occasional starts, I started having starting problems. To make a long story short (after much frustration) I decided to try to go back and install the Pertronix system. I wanted to be sure it was functioning properly before injecting another problem into my already frustrating situation. So, I called Pertronix to see if there was any way to check the module out before installing it or buying a new one. The tech guy at Pertronix was most helpful and walked me thru a test procedure. I thought I'd pass it on. The test can be accomplished with the module on or off the car. I found it easier to do it on the bench using a 12V motorcycle battery I keep around for testing purposes. You will need a long piece of 14 or 16 ga wire with an allegator clip on each end, a 12V source, and a digital volt meter. Take the wire w/ allegator clips, attach one end to the module mounting bracket; connect the other end to the negative battery post. Set the meter to volts DC. Connect the black meter lead to black wire coming from the Pertronix ignition module Connect the red meter lead, and the red module wire then to the positive battery terminal. Your meter should read 12V. If it does not, recheck your wiring, if it's correct and you're still not reading 12V, Module is bad. If you have 12V, continue the test by passing the magnetic ring pass the ignition module. (use the same orientation of the ring to the module as if it were in the distributor). Watch the meter, each time the magnetic ring passes by the module, the voltage should drop to around one volt or so . If it does, the module is good; if it stays at 12v when passing by, the module is shot. Mine was. I ran this test again when I got the new module and verified the procedure. It worked as described. CAUTION!! DO NOT LEAVE THIS CONNECTED FOR A LONG PERIOD OF TIME OR YOU WILL BURN UP THE MODULE On a related note; you may have seen post cautioning you that if you leave the ignition on without the engine running you will burn up the Pertronix module. This is true and I think this may have happened with my first module. I asked the tech about this and he confirmed it was true. I asked how long it would take to burn up. He said about 2 MINUTES! This does not apply if the car ignition is in the Accessory position.

It seems over the years we've come to love cup holders in our vehicles. Unfortunately, they were unheard of when our Z cars were built. So I decided to fabricate some. They came out pretty good, so I thought I'd share the details with the group. Mine is a 1973 but I'm pretty sure earlier Z's are the same. I have about $20 in the build. See Pics of finished product and original consol. Material List: (see Material list 1 & 2 photos) Piece of hardboard or paneling 1/8" thick (2) Orings 2-1/4" I.D 1/4" thick (4) pcs of 3/4" x 3/4" x 2" long wood pieces for legs. You could also use round dowel rods if that what you have (2) SS cup holders. I got mine on ebay for $9.50 for the pair. Size is important and not all the ones offered on ebay are the same size. Look for a size that is 2.7" I.D; 2.2" OAH; 3.15" OA Dia (at the lip). The item # on ebay for the ones I bought was 145114090133 (not sure it the same vendor is still listed) See photo. (1) 8-32 x 2-1/2" long screw with nuts (2) or a #8 sheet metal screw the same length. If you look at material list 2 photo, what I did was braze two 8-32 nuts together to make a threaded sleeve then used JB Weld to attach them to the bottom of the consol (1) pcs 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/16" aluminum angle 4-1/2" long. I attached it to the front of the assembly using 3M Auto trim tape to give the assembly a more finished look. This is optional. You will also need 2-9/16" hole saw All the dimensions included are approximate and based on my installation. Some modifications and fitting may be necessary to fit your application. After cutting the holes for the cup holders, they will still need to be enlarges some to fit the holders. I used a Dremel with a sanding wheel for this job. Go slow and test fit often. You want the holders to fit snug in the holes. The o-rings go on the bottom of the cut out to provide additional grip on the holders (see photo) Note that the legs are set slightly in from the edges on all four sides. This is to compensate for the slight taper on the sides of the original consol. I attached the legs and the front panel using Elmers glue and wire brads (small screws would also be acceptable) The 3/16" hole between the cup holders is for the bolt (or screw) that attached the assembly to the original consol. Note also the small area in front of the cupholders is ideal for your cell phone

View Advert 72 240Z Engine 72 engine less intake, carbs, trans and starter. condition unknown came with the car, I was told it had been rebuilt but don't know for sure. I do have intake manifold, flat top carbs, exhaust manifold from a 73 Z that I would include if wanted. Also have a complete Auto trans from the 73 that could be included at no extra cost if desired. Local pick up only. Located in NW Indiana Advertiser z3beemer Date 03/19/2024 Price $200 Category Parts for Sale  

I recently complete my restoration of my 73 240Z. I have no plans to do another one. I have lots of leftover parts. A few new but most used but in decent shape. A lot of the used stuff is in good condition but I figured once I had it off it was the same amount of work to install new. Most of the stuff I will give away for free if you pay shipping other stuff I'll sell at bargain basement prices. Here's a list of some of the things I have. If you're looking for something not listed let me know and I'll see if I have it. Unless otherwise noted all parts are from 72 & 73 Z's. Original kick panels Glove box interior, cardboard (New) Clutch slave cylinder for 73 (new) 73 Intake manifold w/ flat-top carbs & all the pollution crap 73 exhaust manifold 73 auto trans w/ flex plate, spacer, shifter assy, starter (conditions unknown. I know it worked when I got the cars but did not shift smoothly. Didn't worry about it because I was converting to manual. 72 engine less intake, carbs, trans and starter. condition unknown came with the car, I was told it had been rebuilt but don't know for sure. (2) York A/C compressors used in ARA dealer installed A/C R12 system. Clutches work and compressors turn freely 73 Timing set, used but in very good conditions Engine mounts Trans crossmember & trans mount. Crossmember could use some metal reinforcement A/C condenser, good condition, I flushed it, cleaned it and pressure tested it Complete set of rocker arms checked out by machine shop most were in great shape but 2 were still useable but not 100% I replaced the whole set (4) original steel rims (sorry no hubcaps) no dins or dents but could use sandblasted and painted Complete dealer installed ARA ac/heating duct work and underdash enclosures 2 pcs plastic fan shroud not sure what year its from 260 or maybe early 280. very good condition Rear differential safety strap Lots of other stuff. I rather some use it instead of tossing it in the trash

After several years, a lot of $, work and help from many of you guys, I now have a 2023 1973 240Z. Here are a few pics. Thanks again to all of you. It's hard to tell from the photos but when I painted it, I incorporated gold micro sequence metal flake in an intercoat layer of paint. When it sits in the sun, it sort of twinkles.

View Advert Clutch Slave Cylinder (new) This is a new aftermarket clutch slave cylinder for 1973 240Z (or other years). It will work on a 72 but it does NOT have the small hole drilled in the body to accommodate the external spring. Also, note that the included pushrod is used but operational. Shipping is NOT included in price. Advertiser z3beemer Date 12/02/2023 Price $5 Category Parts for Sale  

View Advert Glove Box (interior) This is a new aftermarket glove box for a 1973 240Z (or other years). It is the cardboard type. I bought it for my restoration but couldn't use it with the Heat/AC system I installed. Shipping NOT included in price. Advertiser z3beemer Date 12/02/2023 Price $25 Category Parts for Sale  

View Advert Original Kick Panels Pair of good condition interior kick panels (left & right) from 1973 240Z. Price listed is for the pair. Shipping NOT included. Advertiser z3beemer Date 12/02/2023 Price $25 Category Parts for Sale  

View Advert Original Seat Belt Set for 73 240Z Complete Original seet of seatbelts / shoulder belts from 73 240Z. Cleaned and reconditioned, like new. Buyer pays shipping. Advertiser z3beemer Date 11/21/2023 Price $150 Category Parts for Sale  

View Advert Air Cleaner from 73 240Z Complete Original air cleaner from 73 240Z. Used air filter element included if you want it. You can still see light thru the element so it would work if you don't want to spend $75 for a new one. Buyer pays shipping. Advertiser z3beemer Date 11/21/2023 Price $125 Category Parts for Sale  

View Advert Original 2 pcs Fan Shroud for 260Z Fan shroud from 260Z w/ stock radiator. Two-piece plastic, good conditions (no cracks). May work on other models or radiators but check before purchasing. Buyer pays shipping. Not heavy but will require a large box (probably around $20). Advertiser z3beemer Date 11/21/2023 Price $40 Category Parts for Sale  

When I did the engine on the 73 I used 72 intake, carbs and throttle linkage so the there's no good place to mount it, but I'll figure something out if I can get the right solenoid, I just need to make sure it is a push solenoid (shaft extends when power is applied). I'm leaning towards going with the one from Rock Auto ($52) and fabricating a bracket that would mount under the hood latch mounting bracket (see pic) and limit the return on the accelerator linkage when energized. Nice thing is Rock Auto is pretty good about returns if it doesn't work out. I'll keep you posted on how it works out. Thanks for your input.

So, I'm looking for some suggestions (and possible a part suggestion) for my recently completed 73 240z restoration. During the restoration I install an A/C system. With the idle adjusted to about 750 rpms the engine bogs down to near stall speed whenever you stop and the A/C is running. This problem goes away if I increase the idle to about 1000 rpms, but then it's way too high when stopping and the A/C off. What I'd like to do install a small push solenoid that activates when the A/C is on, allowing the idle to run at the higher rpms only when the A/C is on. It needs to be a solenoid that can handle being energized for long periods of time and not one designed for momentary use. Has anyone else run into this problem or know of a solenoid that would work in this application? I'll have to fabricate some sort of bracket and mount it somewhere near the accelerator linkage and it would have to be threaded so I can adjust it. Thanks in advance for your help.

Just a follow up to let you guys know I took your advice and bought the belts from Wesco. I did not buy the hardware kit but did buy the angle bracket, which was available separately. Not sure about other models but since my 73 interior belts mounted to the trans tunnel, the angle bracket was necessary for attaching the inside portion of the new belts. They worked out well and were easy to install. I had a few pieces of carpet left over from another job so used it to cover over the cavity where the old retractors resided. Held it in place with carpet tape. You can't even tell the cavity is there. Thanks again for the advice. Paul

Thanks guys, I'll check them out.