z3beemer

I'm looking for some suggestions to buy or make seatbelt extensions for my 73 240Z. I'm looking for something like the airlines use that have the buckle on one end and the male tab on the other end. I would like to be able to attach it to the inner side of the belt (the trans tunnel side) when needed. I don't really want to replace the original belts. I would like to get a pre-made ones, (again like the airlines use) or if I can find tabs and buckles that would work with the factory belts, I can have them made. Anyone know components that would work on the factory belts or have any suggestions to resolve the issue? Thanks

Np on your comments. But it may also be helpful if the pins are broken on the badge, but the badge is good.

Been searching the forum for ideas on my current problem. Final stages of complete restorations of my 73 Z. My latest issue is it running rich. I have replaced the 73 carbs with 72 round tops that I completely rebuilt. The car runs fines at all rpms and speeds (actual driving it). It smells rich and does some popping thru the exhaust. I should also mention I have headers on the car. The carbs have new .100 nozzles from z therapy and N54 needles. In an attempt to lean it out I've tried incrementally adjusting the Idle nuts 1/2 turn clockwise (did it 2 times 1/4 turn at a time). According to the 72 FSM says turning the idle adjustment nut clockwise reduces fuel and turning it counterclockwise increases fuel delivery. I assume if I'm reducing fuel, I'm leaning it out. However, when I went for 1/4 turn cw to 1/2 turn, it seemed to get richer. Is the FSM correct? I know I've found other errors in the FSM before. When I originally rebuilt the carbs I set the nozzle depth at 2.2mm as recommended by the FSM. How else can I lean it out? Am I on the right track? Like I said it's running well except for the rich smell and popping thru the exhaust.

Whenever I do body work on a panel that has holes in it to accommodate the pins on the back of the emblems, I usually cover over then with body filler. Often times these holes are a starting point for rust. I usually cut the pins off the back of the badge and attach them to the body using 3M autobody trim tape. With the holes covered and the pins removed it's hard to determine the exact location of the badge. Attached is a template I made for proper location of the emblems on the rear hatch . You can print it off, cut it out, place it on the right rear corner of the hatch and mark the exact location of the badges. The dots on the template are the exact location of where the pins were on the badge. These were for the rear hatch on my 73 240Z, not sure if it's the same on other model years 240Z hatch badges.pdf

I value all of you guys. Your knowledge and expertise is unsurpassed!

Well, the brake light was definitely in the wrong hole. I was able to correct that, and it now works as it should. The high beam indicator also works correctly. Now I have to try to find the open hole to insert the instrument light (by feel). It's times like this I wish I had smaller hands and less arthritis.

Never really ran it much with the dual points. It did start but it was intended to be a restoration project since I purchased it. All I can say is that it ran, not well but It had so many other issues I didn't worry about it too much. Thanks again to all for your help. I have a few more minor gremlins to deal with but close to the finish line.

Is there anyone who has a speedometer from a 240Z and can send me a picture of the back of the speedo. My latest issue on my 73 restoration is that the brake light warning light stays on all the time when the lights are on (only when the lights are on). I'm thinking that on reassembly I may have mixed up the instrument bulb with the warning light bulb. The warning light stays lit when the lights are on even if I disconnect both the emergency brake switch and the brake master cylinder warning switch. Since I can't see the back of the speedo, any switching I would have to do I'd have to do it by feel A picture would help greatly.. Thanks!

Well, it appears that the problem was the coil. I replaced it, and took several rides and problem appears to be gone. I also took your advice and ordered new NGK one piece plugs, but haven't got them yet. The finish line is in sight. Thanks guys.

Have not checked the coil but it's cheap enough to just replace it to eliminate the possibility.

Mark it seem to be ok when driving it initially and at low rpm but started breaking up as I increased speed and rpms. It's ok at high rpms when idling with no load. This was the first shakedown ride so I need to do some more investigating. I think the next thing I'll try is leaning out the front carb a little. If that doesn't help maybe recheck float adjustments again.

I guess a mechanical issue with the 72 distributor is a possibility but points, cap rotor and condenser are all new (not that that's a guarantee they are good). Points were set using a dwell meter , not a feeler gauge. Other things that have me leaning toward fuel issue is that it only happens under load. At idle I can run the rpm's up to several thousand rpms with no issue. Also, if it was ignition related it would be odd that it only affected cylinders 1-3 and not 4-6. Another fact that may be contributing to the problem (but not sure it would), currently, I do not have the entire exhaust system installed, only the headers are installed. Planned on taking it down to the exhaust shop to get it finished out once I got it running decent. I still have the 73 distributor if I want to swap it out, I was unaware until this post that you could run a dual point distributor and use it as a single point set up. Thanks for the input. I appreciate it.

Captain Obvious, your summary of my wiring is correct. I was pretty sure my logic on how I connected it was correct, just wanted a second opinion. Thanks. I don't really think my current issue is ignition related. I think it is more fuel related. Maybe more carb tweaking. I checked the plugs and 1-3 appear to be running rich, 3-6 appear to be more in the normal range. Next I'll try leaning out the front carb and then rebalance. Other possibility may be float adjustment but I think I was pretty accurate when I adjusted them. I'll try the easy stuff first.

I've searched the forum on this topic but could not find exactly what I'm looking for. Here's the issue: 73 restoration. Originally an auto trans with dual points. I've converted to manual trans but I'm utilizing the original wiring harness. All the pollution equipment has been removed. The intake, carburetors, distributor, trans/clutch parts from a 72 have been installed. Since the 72 dist. has only one points wire connection and the 73 had two, I've connected the two wires from the 73 wire harness together and connected them to the single connector on the 72 points. Would this cause a problem? The car starts ok and runs ok but is currently breaks up after a few minutes driving and higher rpms. Before I start more extensive troubleshooting to correct the issue, I want to eliminate the easy stuff first. So, the questions are: connecting the two point wires from the dual system together and connecting them as one to the single contact point on the 72 distributor OK to do? If not, which wire from the dual point harness should be connected to the distributor and which one should be disconnected? Your input is greatly appreciated.

Not sure what refrigerant you have in your car R12 or 134A but if you're swapping out the compressor it is most likely is set up for 134A. If the old system was R12 you need to flush the entire system and replace the oil using a polyoester synthetic oil. R12 systems used a mineral based oil and since in a refrigeration system the oil travels in the refrigerant you need to flush it before converting to 134A. Otherwise the mineral based oil will turn to sludge. If you decide to stay with an R12 system expect to pay big bucks for R12 (if you can find it). I'm talking $60+ per pound. I used Auto AC Solutions out of Texas for my 73 restoration which formerly had an ARA system. Nice guy, really helpful. If you decide to go that route and would like more info on my install, contact me and we can talk about it (good & bad). I have a post on here with some of the details of my install. I believe it is under the Heating / AC category.

Success! I made all the changes we talked about, bled the system (again) and now have good pedal feel and brakes. I'm pretty sure, as you all suggested, the caliper issue was the key problem. Thanks for all your help....You Guys Rock!

Thanks guys for all the clues. A few follow up questions/findings: Yarb: I like your adjustment method. To clarify: I would put the lithium grease inside the hollowed-out section of the MC piston as far forward as possible. Adjust pushrod until it just touches the grease. Would I then turn the adjustment 1/4 turn. Do I turn it in or out? Terrapin Z: I did not follow the exact method for adjusting the rear brakes. Did it the old way adjusted them up until they locked up, then backed them off until there was a slight drag on them. Your suggestion makes a lot of sense. Regarding lack of pressure. I will readjust. Zed Head: Just went out to the shop to check the location of the bleeder plugs on the front calipers. They are at the bottom. Your info and rechecking the FSM, they should be on top. I'll correct that. Your description on pedal action is quite similar to the problem I am having. FYI: In addition to having the symptoms Zed Head described regarding pedal action, when the pedal it pushed as far as it will go, there is some braking action but neither the front or the rear brakes will lock up. I'll make the changes and let you know how it goes. Thanks again.

Yea, that's the same pic I have, but like I said even with the end screwed all the way in it still sticks out mor than 4 mm. Do you think my logic makes sense that more extension on the pushrod would help my problem?. I just get the feeling the master cylinder piston is not being pushed far enough forward to lock up the wheels.

So, I'm nearing completion on my 73 restoration and I'm having problems with the brakes. They just don't feel right and when applied will not lock up the wheels. I'm not running the engine but they hydraulic action should work with or without the booster having vacuum on it, otherwise you wouldn't be able to stop the car if the master vac failed. I've been working on brakes for more than 50 years and have never seen a system where the brakes would fail if the power booster failed. There's not that many components in this brake circuit so I can't believe I'm having this many problems. Searched the forum and though I may have found the issue being the reaction disc. So here's what I've done so far: all new brake lines, new master cylinder, rebuilt proportion valve, rebuilt brake light switch, adjusted pedal height, bled entire system numerous times. No leaks anywhere and flow out the bleeder plugs on each wheel. The proportion valve is on the fire wall not at the rear brakes. Retested master cylinder to be sure it was not defective. It is not. Disassembled the master vac to check the reaction disc. It was in the proper position. Cleaned it up and glued it on just to avoid future problems. While I had it apart, I freed up the threaded end of the push rod using the thermal wrench (that was a real nail biter}. I'm kind of leaning towards insufficient travel of the master cylinder piston. Looking at the pic posted by Zed Head I need to know what dimension "B" is. I'm not sure which FSM the pic came from, but I checked 71-72 & 73 FSMs and cannot find that pic or the dimension. My 73 fsm says 3.5-4.0 mm from flange surface (which I assume is the front surface of the spaces that goes between the master vac and master cylinder) to the end of the pushrod. Well even with the pushrod end screwed all the way in, it sticks out more than 4mm, more like 8-10mm. So if anyone knows what the "B" dimension should be, let me know. I'm thinking with the problem I'm having, more stick out of the pushrod would be better. I'm considering backing the pushrod all the way out until it touches the master cylinder piston, then turning it in an 1/8" or so. Any thoughts suggestions or other things I should be checking?????

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The closer I get to completion on my 73 total restorations the more nuisance problem I encounter. This time it's brakes. Spent the last few hours reviewing related post and picked up a few tips but not my exact problem. I Replaced all hard lines and hoses, reused the master cylinder, proportioning valve, master vac, and brake warning switch. Assembled everything and blead the brakes. I had flow at each wheel bleeder. However, after bleeding I pumped the brakes a few times and they became hydraulicly locked (solid pedal). I figured the return port on the MC may have become plugged. Rather than fool around with it, I just ordered a new one. Problem solved. Rebled the system, flow at all wheels. But pedal doesn't feel right and the brake warning light is illuminated. So back to the drawing board. Before I tear into the proportion valve and warning switch, I want to do the easy things first. Adjust pedal rods, and rebleed the whole system. Currently pedal height is about 7-3/4 , I know its supposed to be 8.11" . May need to go a little more since there is no carpet is in the car yet. I also want to check the length of the of the push rod that goes between the master vac and the master cylinder. According to the FSM this rod should be adjusted so the end protrudes 3.5-4mm (.130-.150")from the front flange on the master vac to the end of the push rod. This seems very small to me. Does this seem correct? After I make these few changes if it still feels incorrect, I guess I'll have to tear into the warning switch and proportion valve (which will be a real PIA). Any help greatly appreciated...Thanks

I'm trying to find the proper orientation of the marker lights on 73 Z. As you know they are thicker on one end and thinner on the other. I've look at numerous phots of z's and it seems to vary. Anyone know the correct orientation? Does the wider part go towards the front of the car of the back or the back? Are the front ones orientated differently than the rear? Thanks for your help. Didn't find an answer in the other postings,

By the way those filter screens are readily available. I think I got mine online for like $1 a piece.

After you remove the screw from the slide that holds the needle you can grab the needle up high right near the bottom of the slide with a pair of vise grips and twist it while applying downward pressure. Don't worry if you get some marking on the needle from the vise grip. That part of the needle never gets into the nozzle (jet). I would still soak it some sort of penetrating oil before attempting the removal. Acetone and automatic transmission fluid is cheap and works well. Use a 50/50 mix.