z3beemer

View Advert Left Front Fender to fit 73 240Z Wanted to buy Left front fender to fit 73 240Z. Fender does not need to be in pristine condition but needs to be usable. Shipping will be to Indiana at 46385. Minor rust, dings, dents acceptable. This is the last piece I need for my restoration. Advertiser z3beemer Date 03/22/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1973 Model 240 Z  

Thanks for the help guys. You confirmed my suspicions / logic. Guess you can't believe everything you read.

Working on a 73 240Z Restoration. I just ordered an O ring and locking collar for the fuel tank sending unit. The FSM shows the sending unit going into the tank, then the o ring on top of that, then the locking collar. Is this correct? This would result to a metal to metal fit between the tank and the sending unit and offer little sealing from leakage. The one I took out had the o ring between the bottom of the sending unit and the fuel tank, then the locking collar, (which seems to make more sense). Trying to decide which is correct. Did the previous owned just install the previous one incorrectly or is the FSM correct?

View Advert 240Z Rear Lower Control Arm Need a Right Rear Lower control arm to fit a 73 240Z. Mine got damaged trying to press out the old bushings. See Pics attached. Contact me here or at z3beemer@mail.com Thank you. Advertiser z3beemer Date 12/30/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1973 Model 240 Z  

Thanks guys. I've located one. Appreciate your help.

Thanks for all the tips guys. I found some industrial felt at McMaster Car

I have removed the windshield wiper assembly from my 73 Z project. I noticed there are felt washers between the linkage arms. Anyone have any idea where you can buy something to use to replace these? I thought about using neoprene washers but thought they may not allow the arms to move smoothly enough. Any thought or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

any chance you still have the transmission mount for sale?

Testing your springs. Per my previous post, I'm in the process of a resto on a 73 Z. Currently working on the front suspension, replacing / rebuilding everything that I can. I wanted to change the springs but found limited options. Chevelle springs seemed the most viable option but entailed a lot of "trial and error" work. And, as you know, each time you put them on and take them off it's a real PIA. Especially since the car is on a rotisserie and completely disassembled. I wouldn't be able to get any real information until the engine, doors, hood, hatch ,etc were back on and the full weight of the car was on the springs. So, I decided to test the existing springs to see if they even needed replaced. Years ago,when I worked as an auto mechanic, rarely did we need to replace springs unless they were cracked or broken. So here is what I did: Needed : A hydraulic press, a bathroom scale (an old analog spring style, not an electronic digital), a yard stick, a piece of stiff wire (welding rod or coat hanger), some short pieces of flat bar for steel shims, couple pieces of wood" and a ratchet strap (optional, for safety). Set Up: Cut a piece of 3/4" plywood a little bigger than your scale and set it on your press. Set your scale on the plywood Set your spring on the scale. Because of the way the spring is cut, it will not set level on the scale. Place the metal shims between the spring and the scale until it sets level. Use the top spring cover from your strut and place it on the top of the spring. Fasten the yardstick to the press vertically alongside the spring Use the stiff wire to create a pointer and attach it to the spring (I used magnets to hold it in place, but duct tape will work too). Be sure to make the pointer long enough to reach the yardstick Place a small block of wood on the top spring cover and lower the press ram just enough to hold everything in place. If you prefer, wrap a rachet strap around the press to catch the spring should it decided to kick out (optional) The Test: Before proceeding record the reading on the scale (or adjust it to zero if possible). Also record where the spring pointer is pointing on the yardstick Check the spring specification in the service manual. I was working on the front springs and the rating was 83 pounds / inch Wear safety glasses (just in case) Slowly operate the press watching the spring pointer against the yardstick. Continue to operate until the pointer has moved one inch from the starting point. Then stop. Record the reading on the scale. Subtract your starting scale reading from your finish reading. This will be your rating per inch. In my case the reading was 92 pounds. Since spec is 83. I figured I'm good. A little red spray paint, and the look great. Saved a lot of time and money. Hopefully the rears will be good too. BTW: Be sure to mark left and right springs when you take them off, they are different lengths. The ratings are the same on both sides.

I'm doing a complete restoration on 73 240Z. Like most I'm having spring issues. I'm trying to keep it pretty much stock regarding ride height and performance. I found a place that can make springs that duplicate OEM but the cost is $600 for a set of four. More than I'm willing to pay for springs. Found another place that claims exact stock replacement but 30% stiffer. I have nothing to compare that to and I do not want a stiff ride. So I'm wondering.... How do I know the original ones need replaced. I was planning on replacing them just as a good practice on a restoration. Seeing how I can't find what I want (or am willing to pay) How bad off would I be if I just reused the original springs. There are no visible signs of damage. Other alternatives??? I got to believe some other car somewhere has springs pretty close to the OEM Z ones.

Thanks for the reply. It's very helpful

I working on a restoration of 73 240z. Although I'm not trying for a concourse restoration I'm trying to keep it as much as possible original looking. It appears one of the previous owners did most the body work with an axe and a truckload of bondo. As I work my way around the vehicle repairing and replacing body panels, I do not know how the original panels were assembled. Currently I'm working on replacing the rear panel below the tail light panel and the rear corner panels that connect quarter panel to the rear panel. My questions are: does the corner panel mount on top of the rear panel or behind the panel ( see pics). Second, once the panels are installed is the seam left visible or is filled with body filler and sanded smooth so it appears seamless?

I used a place in Ft. Wayne Indiana called Reckon Plating. I liked the fact they were local and within driving distance to me (I live in Valparaiso). They did a great job and they answer the phone when you call with a real live person. I'm working on a 73 240Z, I had them do the front and rear bumpers, the rear over bar and the bolts. It cost me about $1200. They'll do and estimate if you send them pictures and descriptions (length, width, height, etc.). Just be aware the the actual cost once they actually see the parts will likely be more than the estimate. A lady that worked there, Shane is very friendly and helpful. Don't know if she still works there or not. Here's the info: Reckon Plating 5300 Hanna St Ft Wayne, IN 46806 800-5924766 or 260-744-4339

View Advert 240Z Right Rear Repair Panel New right rear quarter panel repair part. This part goes between the front of the rear tire and the door opening. It is new. I bought it to use on my restoration on a 73 240Z but ended up purchasing the entire wheel arch. $50 + $15 shipping. Email if you have questions or would like me to call you. Advertiser z3beemer Date 05/18/2021 Price $50.00 Category Parts for Sale  

View Advert 240Z Right Rear Repair Panel New right rear quarter panel repair part. This part goes between the front of the rear tire and the door opening. It is new. I bought it to use on my restoration on a 73 240Z but ended up purchasing the entire wheel arch. $50 + $15 shipping. Email if you have questions or would like me to call you. Advertiser z3beemer Date 05/18/2021 Price $50.00 Category Parts for Sale  

Thanks AZ-240z. That's exactly what I needed. Guess I need to get the grinder out and see if I need to replace the outer rocker panels as well a the fenders. Thankfully the inside rockers are in goon shape.

I'm working on a restoration project for a 73 Z. I'm trying to figure out what the proper mating should be between the back of the front fender and the front of the rocker panel. Currently it appears there is no visible seam where they come together. You would think there would be a visible seam where they butt together. I think the previous owner may have just bondo 'd the seam then sanded it smooth. The z service manual doesn't really show a clear illustration on how they come together. I dug out a few pics I had of the 71 I owned years ago but I cant tell from that either and no visible seam is appears. Can anyone shed some light on this? Thanks in advance for your help.

I ran across a decent (still needs work) front fender from a 78 280Z. I would be using it on a 73 240. How well will it fit or will I have to do a lot of modifications to it? Thanks Paul

I haven't checked yet to too see if Zcar Depot will be restocking but I'm fairly sure they will be. Also I think Motorsport handles the same ones. It looks like some of the vendors mentions so far only handle repair panels. I'm looking for complete fenders. Thank you.

I'm working on a 73 240Z and in the need for some decent fenders. I was considering buying them from Zcar Depot but notice that the ones they sell have a warning that they may not be exact replacement and may need some modifications. I was wondering if anyone has purchased these and how much "modification" was needed to get them to fit properly. I'd hate to pay the price and all the high shipping cost and find out they look like hell wen I get done. On a related note, if anyone has a decent set (or just the L or R) of used ones they'd like to sell, I'd be interested. Thanks Paul