z3beemer

Thanks for the pics. They are most helpful.

I'm doing a trans swap (auto - manual) as part of my 73 restoration. I want to run the hydraulic line from the clutch master cylinder to the frame bracket while I have the engine out of the car. I have the metal bracket that mounts on top or the right frame rail but I'm not sure where to mount it, since the auto trans cars did not have it. Can anyone give me an approx. measurement for the location on the frame rail? This is the bracket that handles the transition from the hydraulic metal line to the rubber hose that connects to the slave cylinder. I hate to have to put the engine in to determine the location, then take the engine back out to fabricate the line and weld the bracket in. As always, thanks in advance. z3beemer (Paul)

Well zKars was kind enough to send me what he had and I was to get one of them to kind of work, so I'll be installing that one. It never did completely close off but did reduce flow thru the valve. Maybe that's the way it's supposed to work. It took a temperature higher than 175 degrees F to change state, but it is what it is. Hopefully performance won't be too greatly affected.

Thanks. I'll use the N54's

Thanks for the info guys. Ordered a pair from z therapy yesterday. Pricey, $120 / pair, but when your this far into a restoration what's another $120. On a related note, if the one on the front carb comes off without breaking, I'll have a used nozzle available it anyone needs on.

View Advert Carb Part for 72 3 screw roundtop I'm looking for a carb part that broke on the rebuild of my 72 roundtop 3 screw carb . I've attached a few pictures. The picture with the red arrow is showing the front carb. I actually need the part for the rear carb. Not sure if there is a difference. The other picture shows the actual part that I need. If you look at the bottom of the part you can see that it has broken off. It appears to be some sort of plastic. The choke linkage attaches to this. I have the linkage. I thought about trying to epoxy it back together but since it moves anytime the choke is on, I'm not sure how well it will hold up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Paul Advertiser z3beemer Date 01/20/2023 Price $15 Category Parts Wanted Year 1972 Model 240 Z  

I'm looking for a carb part that broke on the rebuild of my 72 roundtop 3 screw carb . I've attached a few pictures. The picture with the red arrow is showing the front carb. I actually need the part for the rear carb. Not sure if there is a difference. The other picture shows the actual part that I need. If you look at the bottom of the part you can see that it has broken off. It appears to be some sort of plastic. The choke linkage attaches to this. I have the linkage. I thought about trying to epoxy it back together but since it moves anytime the choke is on, I'm not sure how well it will hold up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Paul

I'm working on a restoration project of a 73Z. I'm installing 3 screw round top carbs off a 72 engine. To keep from getting things mixed up I'm working on one carb at a time. I'm currently working on the rear carb. My rebuild kit is a Napco for 72Z. Bought if from a supplier in Japan. The kit has 2 sets of needle jets. One is marked N54 and the other is marked M43. Do the front and rear carbs use different needles? If so, which one goes where? If not, which set should I be using? The car is going to be pretty much stock, manual trans and exhaust headers. I removed the needle from the rear carb slide, but I don't see any number marking on it or they are just illegible. Any help greatly appreciated.

Marty here are a few pics of the unit installed. The one pic shows two cables. These come from the back of the unit and are for a USB input, the other is for an MP3 input. The USB is a short cable and MP3 is a female jack. I had to buy longer cables to come from the back of the unit to the consul area for easier access. The pic showing the small hole below the volume control is an internal mic for hands free operation. Ralph, the guy who did my upgrade, installed this at no cost. Not sure if other authorized installers do the same. The upgrade does come with wired mic that plugs into a jack at the rear, then you can run the wire wherever you want. I believe it has 6 or 10 ft length.

ZKars...I need one. Let me know price, payment and shipping arrangements. Regards, Paul

I can send you a picture but I'm not sure it will tell you much. It looks exactly like it did originally. All the modifications are internal. I'll send you a pic next time I'm out in the shop. Tomorrow or Monday.

I'm in the process of removing the carbs and intake from my 72 engine and rebuilding and installing the round tops on my 73 240z restoration. (also so removing most all the emissions stuff). I noticed a cooling line that runs from the water outlet housing thru the intakes and back to the coolant return line. I noticed a valve on the exit of the cooling line. Thought maybe it was a check valve. After doing some research I discovered it's a thermostatic valve that shuts off coolant flow once it reaches 150 degrees. Unfortunately, it is broken. Any idea where I can get one or does anyone have one I can buy? I believe the Nissan part number is 14100-E8850 (not 100% sure of the PN) but when I run it, it shows discontinued. Tried most the aftermarket sources but nothing listed. Photo attached (note the threaded part is broke off in the manifold.

Good to know. I didn't see any typical choke plates and didn't know if something was missing or that was the way it was supposed to be. The linkage is there but didn't see anything moving when I operated the linkage. Knowing there's not supposed to be choke plates is a big relief. Thanks

The one I have here in the states is a Hitachi . AM/FM mono with on speaker in the left rear hatch panel

It's controlled by multiple quick turns on the volume or tuning controls. Fo example if a phone call comes in I can accept it by making one quick turn to the right on the tuning knob. To end the call one quick turn to the left on the tuning knob. Go to the web site they have a good video demonstration of all the features and how to operate them. www.tech-retro.com.

I'm working on a complete restoration on a 73 240Z. When I bought the car, I also got a 72 engine and manual trans with it. My intentions were to use the round tops off the 72 and install them on the 73. I'm nearing that part of the project, so I started looking over the carbs on the 72. I do not see any choke plates. There is linkage where the choke cable would connect, but no choke plates or shafts. Are the chokes a separate attachment to the carb housing that I don't have? I know the ones on the 73 are incorporated in the carb bodies. I tried looking at the fish diagram for the 72 but can see anything that helps. any enlightenment would be greatly appreciated. z3beemer

Just a follow up on my original post on the Z radio options. I went with the www.tech-retro.com mentioned in my earlier post. I had Ralph the Radio Guy in Bartlett, IL (773 814 5094) do the conversion on mine. So far, I'm very happy with it. The radio looks and work just like the original one. When I got it back, I set it up on the bench and checked out all the features. Everything works as described in thier video. I now have am/fm stereo ,4 channel 45W (ea) speaker connection, usb input, mp3 input, bluetooth, hands free phone with internal or external mic. It now also has a fader and a balance control. My original radio was an am/fm monaural radio with one rear speaker. The car isn't on the road yet, but the radio is installed and tested. All ok

Was looking thru the forum for help with reinstalling my stock radio. Looks like others had the same problem. I don't know why it would not go back in the way it came out but I eventually gave up with why and just fixed the problem. Thought I'd share my experience. I refer to the heater panel (the dash mounted center panel above the consul) and the face plate (radio face plate with station numbers, on/off tuning , etc). The infamous metal plate was the problem (for me). BTW I''m working on a 73 240Z. I did have to modify the original rear bracket to accommodate the new heat / ac system but that was not my problem because I still had plenty of room behind the radio. If you look at the other pictures posted in this thread, you'll notice the metal plate has about a 1/2" lip on it. It attaches to the radio itself with the lip facing forward behind the heater panel. That's the only way it can go. The plate is too big to go thru the radio opening in the heater panel from the front. When inserted from behind the radio control shafts will not come forward enough to attach the face plate, even with the metal plate tight against the back of the heater panel. After wrestling with it for a few hours I said &#%! it. I removed the metal plate completely reinserted the radio from the back thru the heater panel opening then attached the radio face plate. I did have to fabricate a few mounting brackets to secure the back of the radio to the trans tunnel for a solid mount but it's in, solidly mounted and working. Still don't know why it would not go in the way it came out but it's in now.

Well, it was a hell of a fight but thanks to all you guys it's fixed. Here are the details, in case someone else has the same problem. I installed the reconditioned headlight switch, crossed my fingers and turned the switch. Success! I had all my lights working except my front turn singles. Rear were OK. Started fooling with the turn signal switch and got the right side working but not the left. Squirted some contact cleaner in the switch followed up with some dielectric grease. Worked the turn signal arm. Now I had left side working but not the right. Started thinking that switch was bad as well. Decided to take it apart and see if there was something I could fix. Figured I had nothing to lose if I had to replace it anyway. Removed it and took it over to the bench to work on. Upon closer examination, I noticed a broken solder joint on the switch. Not the wire, the solder actually broke. I cleaned it up with solvent and resoldered it. All lights and turn signals now work. Hard to believe it broke after 49 years of service. I surmised the intermittent function of the turn signals was caused by the solder joint intermittently making contact. I wanted to do one move test before calling it a total success. Test the headlight high and low beams with the actual headlights, not just voltage reading. I connected the pigtails and took one of my brand-new headlights out of the box and connected it to the right side. Nothing. Moved it over to the left side, nothing. As a long shot I thought maybe they both needed connected (didn't think so but I was grasping at straws). Got the other new headlight and connected it. Now both were connected. One worked one didn't. Switched them around and the problem moved. Took the inoperative light over to the bench and hooked it up to a battery, nothing. Confirming the brand-new headlight was operative. In over 50 years of working on cars, some of those years as a mechanic, I never had a bad headlight out of the box. So that light saga is over. I want to thank you guys for all your help and perseverance in helping me get this resolved. I couldn't have done it without you help. That's why I'm a subscribing member,

Well I ordered a reconditioned headlight switch ($$). I'll let you know how it goes once I get it installed. By applying power to the green/blue solder joint all the lights appear to function (except the turn signals). Maybe the replacement headlight switch will correct that. First things first. I'll keep you posted. Thanks!

Latest finding on your above recommended checks. Just to clarify: Once I corrected the cross connection in the center stack, I no longer had any instrument lights that worked. Making the checks above , here's what I found. I checked power at the switch solder joints under three conditions: Key on Parking light switch on, Key off parking light switch on, Key off parking light switch off. All resulted in the same results; No power on green/blue solder joint; 12V power to the green/white solder joint. Next I picked up a 12V power source and jumpered it to the green/white solder joint. I now had: instrument lights, tail lights, marker lights and brake warning light on the dash. I'm beginning to think the multifunction switch is bad. On a related note: when I had the wires misconnected and was back feeding thru the instrument lights, the windshield wiper motor worked. Today when I got the lights working the wiper motor did not function (yes the fuse is good) however the wiper switch was very hard to operated I heard something click inside the switch like something broke, the switch operated easily after that but did not operate the wiper motor. Your thoughts??? As usual ...thanks for sharing your expertise.

More info: Disregard the earlier comment about no power to the flasher. The attached chart PDF file) is the latest readings. Again thanks: 240z elecr,.pdf

Steve thanks so much for all you help so far. Once I get this resolved I'll have to send you a case of beer or something. Spent several days chasing the demons and here's what I've found: I found the reason the instrument lights wouldn't go out. Looks like I connected the plug to the radio, which was a key on power source, to a matching plug on the instrument wiring. So it was supplying power to all the instrument lights all the time. However now I do not have instrument lights at all. Here are some of the things I have and do not have: Ground between dash and chassis .5 ohms. Between dash and negative batter terminal -99 ohms. Never saw a negative ohm reading before but maybe it's because I have the negative of the battery connected to the chassis via a jumper cable, since there is no engine in the car. I do have dome light and glove box light and switches work as should(door push button switches and glove box switch). Brake lights work normally. Back up lights work if I connect the leads together (no trans installed yet). Headlights are not installed but have power going to the pigtails when switched on. High beam indicator works as normal. No trail lights, marker lights, turn signals or instrument lights. With the hazard switch turned on (pulled out) tail lights flash, turn signals flash and turn signal indicators on dash all flash (but not the marker lights). I seperated the 9 pin connector on the steering column and checked power under 3 conditions; key off, key on light switch off, and key on and light switch on. I can supply those results if you think it would be helpful. I think the most telling thing I found is the there is no power to either side of the 20A fuse labeled Flasher. I'm not sure where the power to it comes from, why its not getting there or if this will solve my problem. One other thing; none of the pigtails between the wiring harness and the center consol are connected at this time. I don't think this is the problem since most of what's under there are indicator lights. Your thoughts???