hls30.com

in 17 years with a dashcap on my car in Savannah in direct sunlight daily-most of the day every day, my finding has been completely different-but then, I used the summer sun to help in forming the cap to the dash after trimming any upward curling cracks! only a few dots of the adhesive-less is more...I have to find that installation thread I wrote!

Both sell the same parts-they come from Palco Industries. http://www.dashtop.com/categories/datsun-nissan-cars You are better off to install the cap with the dash in the car-no reason what so ever to take it out. Cant seem to find my thread on installing the cover-but I will.

I would not dismiss the look of a full face dash cover-if you take your time and install it carefully the only places it really shows as a cover are the sides with the doors open and the glove box with it open. In the newly restored dashes I have seen, the grain embossed into the newer dash restorations is not the same as original-it looks good, certianly better than a severely cracked dash, but not identical. Having had a restored dash, a cover, and an original dash all at the same time, if I couldn't get original I would choose a full face cover. A carefully installed one looks great in a driver, very few people take the time to look close enough to tell it is a cover. If the rest of the interior is up to speed, and a spirited drive is involved, ods are your passenger will have no idea unless you tell! check my gallery for side by side pictures( http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=19208&title=restored-vs-nos-dash&cat=500 ) cover ( http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=14322&title=hls30-my-73-inside&cat=3223 )-and my install thread( ). Something thing to think about...Something to think about if you are considering a fiberglass dash-what happens to a face you like/love when it hits it..and how will you like your choice then...there is a actually a good reason street driven cars have padded dashes...

I would not dismiss the look of a full face dash cover-if you take your time and install it carefully the only places it really shows as a cover are the sides with the doors open and the glove box with it open. In the newly restored dashes I have seen, the grain embossed into the newer dash restorations is not the same as original-it looks good, certianly better than a severely cracked dash, but not identical. Having had a restored dash, a cover, and an original dash all at the same time, if I couldn't get original I would choose a full face cover. A carefully installed one looks great in a driver, very few people take the time to look close enough to tell it is a cover. If the rest of the interior is up to speed, and a spirited drive is involved, ods are your passenger will have no idea unless you tell! check my gallery for side by side pictures( http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=19208&title=restored-vs-nos-dash&cat=500 ) cover ( http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=14322&title=hls30-my-73-inside&cat=3223 )-and my install thread( ). Something thing to think about...Something to think about if you are considering a fiberglass dash-what happens to a face you like/love when it hits it..and how will you like your choice then...there is a actually a good reason street driven cars have padded dashes...

I hope you told him that it was a 280Z not a Lazy Boy recliner!

I do have to say snake oil is not something I usually buy-but I had gone through the gambit of CHarger/tender/topper offers and had only one that lasted more than its warranty period. Before I bought the Battery Saver I researched it, called the company with questions-and spoke to the owner who was answering the Technical Support line(and has almost every time I have called) and found the best price in a Sale at Northern Tool. I am impressed when the owner of the company knows enough about his products(he did actually design them) and wants to interact with his customers enough to man the customer support line-he hears and responds directly to every gripe, problem, and issue-what better way to improve a product is there? This does seem to take care of Sulphation, if you have a conventional car battery(not the maintenance free) you can actually see a decrease on the buildup on the plates but peeking in the caps-or at least I did. What really sold me was the Power Wheels batteries-the el cheapo charger that comes with the Power Wheels is just enough to do the job if you are paying attention to it-overcharging is typical, and ultimately deadly, add to that the charger uses higher voltage and current and the batteries heat up, shortening their life even more. With the Battery saver They might get slightly above ambient temperature, and they absolutely respond to the charger with improved performance-the batteries I used were 6 months old, they had seen service a time or two a week for most of that time-and were run down and allowed to cool before charging them, but the OEM charger just pushed a charge. The battery saver seems to sneak it in there! The battery does not know it performs better but my boys butt dyno and my watch tells me it does! My mower battery was also a positive, even leaving it disconnected and tended between mowings, I have replaced it every second year and had to charge it after each winter(I would say cold spell, but here in Savannah we have about 10 days of 30ish lows, 20 days of 40ish lows and 30 days in the 50s, with a day maybe 3 in the 20s or below) The current battery was headed the same way, it was on it's second year due for replacement when I bought the battery saver. It is now 4 years old and still holding its own, I charge it one day every two weeks! I had another red top optima that the battery saver would help but not repair. it would hold voltage until I put a load on it, then drop like a rock-the battery saver read it as dead from the get go, but still let me run the deep cycle option...as they say it wont fix a dead one, but a marginal can be brought back, and a new one kept useable longer... I use it on the battery in my 2003 Dodge Quadcab too-still on the original battery in it.

Might you be checking the LEDS one at a time on the battery and all wired up at the dome light? If so check your wiring-you possibly have series where you should have parallel-or viceversa!

I have been using these battery tender devices for decades. I am in my um-teenth and last one-I bought it two years ago after a warranty replacement of Shumaker died with fireworks! This one was more expensive, but it actually does what it advertises and that is more than sit there fat, dumb and happy feeding the slow discharge of storage... http://www.saveabattery.com/All-In-One__Deep_Cycle_.html It has rejuvenated several power Wheels batteries-they would last a couple of minutes, now they go a good 25, , two Jump Boxes-went from running an inverter for 10 minutes to just over an hour, a Red Top Ultima-my Lawnmower battery and the battery in my wifes Volvo after she left the lights on so long the battery was reading 0. It came with a long ac cord several battery attachments(all polarized), (clips, Cigarette lighter, permanent Pigtail) and I just move the unit around...best one I have found, and in three calls to Tech support I have gotten outstanding service-direct from the OWNER of the company even when getting the dreaded ID-10T User error...handled well with no pride damage! I tried the other versions I have had on other batteries, and never had any favorable results on anything but keeping a stored battery charged. If a battery is wiped out it won't sort it out, but if a battery can be saved, it will actually do it.

In my experience, if you don't have a long time Z fanatic with lots of free tome in your local area, between the FSM, the books you mentioned and "How to make your car handle", you have most of what you need to get the most out an essentially stock 280Z! You can't go wrong. Great holiday present for a Z nut-Amazon has the best prices I have found

Yes, my HRE wheels were clear powder coated as purchased.

The griffin emblem was never original to a Z. The S30 came from Nissan with a shift pattern emblem on the shifter, early Datsun Roadsters came with a form as you describe-later roadsters came with the knob that would be passed to the 240Z-when the console changed and the shift pattern was removed from it.. These are similar to what would have come with the "Dragon" on them http://www.datsunroadster.com/SUB_SECTION_DIRECTORIES/accessories.htm#SHIFT

The work looks fantastic- Burning the 3d image inside an acrylic block would surely be something I would want-be sure you guys arrange that/get a part of it!

I did make up a male plug for the stalk-I still have it, but Dean(a roadster guy I talked with about the idea) beat me to production-he has them made, with flat glass-I still have all my parts and pieces, including the convex glass I cut for the flag-to my way of thinking, the convex glass makes the ps mirror more than essentially a cosmetic part. The issue is crimping the stainless back over the glass to hold it in-there is a reason most convex aftermarket mirrors bed the glass in plastic and then crimp the plastic, but doing that in this instance ruins the cosmetics of the assembly-I'll figure it out for my own car-I am just not there yet-as life is currently dominating my days! Will PS I have thought of recreating a full pair in aluminum-and finishing it appropriately-that would allow me to crimp as necessary with no damage to the glass, and could be done so as to be the "color" of stainless.

I missed last year because of being blindsided by a last minute health issue, and didn't know it was happening-Bill always has a great garage party! I saw a couple of Amelia Island markers, but not Carls...and I know he has one. Tons of cars there I would love to have seen up close and personal-that Turbo charged Z.....hmmmmm parts of what is under that hood look familiar...hmmm. I must have been right Chris!

12/7/1012 7pm EST-The Classifieds are being worked on and this may temporarily play havoc with the site-this is temporary, and we apologize for the intrusion! Will

One thing I noticed several days ago, in listing a part, there is a call for only one year in the form though a part usually fits several years...My NOS center vent for instance!

My luck has been similar to Chris's The days of "Holly sh!t My wife is going to be pissed-how in the hell am I going to get all of this home" side trips seem to be gone...now my few and far between scores are coming from non Z people(still car people) who know I am seriously into 240Zs...they go places I wouldn't and see things I never would, and that "means they are in the last of the Z virgin territory-got my last low vin that way-I loaned a buddy my trailer to head to VA to pick up his latest ebay-won pile of rolling Mopar parts, when he got up there what he paid for was not even close to what he bought...after a visit from the local sheriff, he got his money back, but he happened to look around and see a rusty Z in a lookyloo neighbors yard! After a short conversations with Mr Lookyloo, my buddy called me, told me what just happened, chuckled, and said, "I think I came all the way up here to get you the rusty-rolling parts bin." An hour and a couple of pictures later I had a 1/70 Z heading to my house! It was way to rusty to keep the unibody-I don't know how they got it on the trailer in one piece-but it was 99% original(appliance wire wheels-and a broken antenna) and other than rust holes everywhere, complete and un-modified and damn near everything that was attatched to it is now in boxes-I even cut out some of the low vin specific stamped sheet metal(the rear deck, etc...). As bad as the rolling box looked, it had protected the parts very well-everything was in very good to great shape! Can't find a picture at the moment...When I first met this guy he would never got caught looking at a Z twice! Other than that The last great pull I had was with Z bane, and he did the locating! We ran out of time before getting everything, but we had a good afternoon of 280ZX parts pulling in the weeds of a used car lot! I gotta agree an afternoon in a new to you salvage yard is good therapy-doesn't matter if you are feverishly pulling parts because there are so many and you have so little time, or you are really having to hunt for anything...ok, it matters, but not too much!

Roger Berry owned that car-might still-there are some more pics of it and Zwolf at Zcon in Daytona in my Gallery-pic 3 in post 2 is from Daytona.. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=26435&title=soap-and-suds&cat=500 The car was also pictured and mentioned in a couple of Z books...by Author Ben Mislplaugh if memory serves.

Those are cracks in the leaded seams under the paint that are showing through, They can be fixed by any good body shop, with lead or more recent materials-not that many shops still know how to use lead...

That looks just about like I envisioned it-Sharp! My plan for the space between the 5 speed metal emblem and the existing opening was to machine a stepped ring to fill the space with-and to give the emblem a concentric circle similar to the one the plastic emblem and the metal 4 speed emblem have-I also considered removing the glass, and filling the recessed area of the emblem with body color matched paint.

At least all of the ads I have seen are following the don't let the model upstage the car rule...but then "personal Service Prividers" have been shunned from craigslist...and the guy in the ebay ad did offer a test drive of his daughter... " Q: Does buying the car include a free "ride" with the porn star ? A: Nice way to talk about my daughter!!!! But sure----------!!!! Hit the buy it now!! "

FWIW, The last set I cleaned up I washed with soap and water with a SOFT brush to get rid dirt, then dried and annealed the piece with a torch(it felt brittle when I was washing it) and pushed the dents out with the vice with a piece of Neoprene on both sides to keep away the scratches, then I used a no-scrub aluminum wheel cleaner spray to get started-brought back the color immediately, rinsed thoroughly with distilled water, dried with compressed air, then I hit both sides with some Maas Metal protector on a Viva paper towel It looked good as new, and it sure didn't when I started-looked good for several years-other than the new dents...

I found my original notes on this! There is a little variation between the three examples I originally measured, but middle measurements are: W1 1.510" W2 1.095" W3 1.061" H1 1.755" H2 1.225" I measured the insert as well if you need it. Will

Ian-G'day Mate! If no one beats me to it I'll measure and post all of it later today. I moved my Mill/Drill/Lathe last weekend, and still have a healthy amount of putting it back together and recalibrating to do to bring it operational-and with the heart of the holidays here, I don't know how much time I'll have to put into this over the next 35 days. I have had several knobs disassembled waiting for me to get time-it looks like I am still time challenged-so I will take the measurements and post them for you. My intention was to restore used, original knobs by replacing /refinishing what needed it, and keeping what didn't-a properly restored piece is more valuable to me than an all new reproduction. I don't think making everything new represents any challenge-other than actually matching the original wood species. I planned to have two sift knobs for my Z-one restored original, and one original knob resto-modded with the metal emblem from a later knob. Will

Sugar Maple-she same trees maple Syrup comes from.