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Another check, pump the brakes with the engine running, the idle speed should increase, if it doesn't, you need to repair/replace it. Will

Start her up and do it one more time, with no vacuum in the booster, air can hide! Will

It is the whole enchalada! They also came with grease fittings, castleated nuts and cotter pins-but they were all loose in the bag. Will

Don't get caught pouring it out with out checking with your local department of water and sewer, they fine first, and ask questions after you can no longer prove the answer-don't ask me how I have this knowledge, I don't remember.... Will

Good pernt! Will

If pumping works, you are not through bleeding. How are you bleeding the system? Is the engine running? Have you got a helper? Have you got a mightyvac? Will

No, this is the way they came in the box for replacement. Will

Even if the booster was bad, you would still have brakes-not nearly as good as with the booster, but standing on the pedal would stop the car. here are some suggestions 1) To check the booster, pull off the hose hoing from it to the intake manifold(take it loose at the manifold.) suck on it-the vacuum should not leak down, if it does, the diafram is broken. 2) Did you take the booster out of the car? If so, there is a pin inside it that holds the linkage that has probably fallen out-it is a pain in the azz to get back in. 3) Did you bleed the master cyl. by its self? Sounds like that is here your air is if you didn't. Will

Here are the pictures of the speedometer cables, obvious quality differences between them, the OEM unit has a spring wound about 18" to keep the cable out of trouble, both ends are metal, and there was a rubber seal to keep dirt out of the cable. It is too dark for good pictures, I will take more in the morning if that will help. If the offering from MSA is OEM, that's what I will do when this one goes away. Will

Here is one picture-the rest qre too dark-it is night time here, and I guess the flash just just isn't cutting it. There is a left and a right, but the only dfference I could see is where the hole for the grease fitting is, they are mirrored in placement left to right. I do know Carl is right, they are threaded opposite. I will be happy to take more pictures tomorrow if they will hlep. Will

My inners were good too. I think you covered almost everything, As soon as the MooCow (her words, not mine) quits pumping, I will dart out to the Zroom and take some pictures-I will make sure to capture any differences between the L & R tierods. Will

I'll shoot a picture of the uninstalled tie rods for you and post it here a little later this evening. Will

I have the one from VB-different from the OEM piece-I'll post a picture of the oem and the VB pieces here a little later tonight(The boy is home, and a hunting/layout trip to the Zroom will require Mom to watch him when she gets home from work.) Will

Well, nut huggers need nutZ to hug! Will

Most of the external "chrome" is acutally stainless steel. All of the window trim is stainless, the drip rails are stainless, as are the trims on the tail light finishers, the frames on the side markers, and the headlight rings. Only the door handles, emblems, and strip between the tail light lenses is actually chrome. Will

You guys must wear boxers! Will

Unfortunately that is not rain, that is the humidity when the sun is high, bright, and hotter than your tires after a great lap! Will

But then what temp Tatoo would he have used? Yikes!!! Will

I have three cars that will be getting L28ETs, and I will keep the L24 for a future restoration of the '72. I have a bunch of parts cars, but... Will

I meant either one, they have an L28ET and the L24 out of my '72 on them-two more L28ETs waiting their turns... Will

I have two of those, and to tip one over, you have to try! Will

Vb sells them, $25 or so. MSA probably also caries them. Will

Try that in 95-99% humidity-you will get bubbles in the POR right after application, and if you used a compressor to spray, unless you have an effective air dryer, it will be far worse. The humidity causes a skin to form quickly and seal causing the inside to take a good while to harden-pressure causes the skin to break away if you don't wait long enough-I normally put on 3 light coats. Eagan, Huh. I have a friend who lives in another suburb of Wisconsin, Minneapolis/St. Paul! She hates it when I say that! Yes I know who the real cheese heads are! Will

I found the problem, a large nut (no, not me) had fallen between the the bar and the chassis just outboard of a side bend, a drip of old undercoating(I used a torch to remove it) held to nut in place, and that was the new pivot-thanks for the help. The geometry made sence, but the actual situation had the geomerty out. Will

I drive a Volvo S80, and while I bought it as the safest car I could find, but it is only part of the plan. I have the first reponsability to not cause and to avoid accidents. The safety of the car is for those situations where I don't see it comming. I don't smoke, I very seldom use a cell phone in a car, and I know others are not as focussed in their driving habbits(a video posted in one of the forums of an idiot repeatedly forcing a V8 Z to lose traction on a city street in traffic comes to mind). I bought the car to save my family from them, not to give me a "10 foot tall and bullet proof" mentality when sitting in the drivers seat. That said, it is very comfortable, but not very quick-not a car for "turning tricks". Will