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gary, Thanks- Will

You cranky bastard, where is the picture! I recon as long as it's not my hair I'm losing she'll be apples! A picture of what you're after would prove your bloods worth bottling! It's not like you can lob in to Vinnie's and pick up an air cleaner. getting it across the pond might be exy, but for apretty spiffy piece... Will

Who is going to pay for the retro fitting? Will

You have hit it right on the head! POR15 must be applied in a low humidity environment! I spray POR15(thinned by 10%) with a rechargeable/refillable spraycan -no way I am going to ruin a good gun! To get the air supply dry, I fill an air tank made from a small scuba tank through a pair of dessicant based dryers in series. Bake the @ 250 for 30-45 minutes to dry them back out. After I fill the tank, I stick it in the fridge for a couple of hours to over night. In the morning I take it out, turn it upside down, and just bearly crack the valve-most of the water in the air has condesed, and comes right out! I let the tank warm up in the sun for an hour or so. When I get ready to charge the paint can, I do so through the same dessicant dryers I baked the night before-Presto, Dry warm air, verified by the fact the blue desicant stays blue, and filtered just in case. The scuba tank holds enough air to charge the paint can 30-40 times, plenty for coating most Z parts with POR15-but not nearly enough to paint anything large, by being carefull of what is left in the can(pressure and paint) good results can be had. It would not be too hard to rig a hose to keep the spray can charged, but that would make it more difficult to refill with POR15, so I have not bothered. I normally paint with POR15 in an air conditioned room(90+% humidity makes por 15 bubble if exposed before it develops a skin. I use a respirator untill everything is sprayed and skinned, then I open all of the doors, get some fans going, and throw away the $6 spray can. Michael, here is what I use for The POR painting-and a great deal more: 1) a $90(On sale) 2hp twin tank air compressor from Harbor Freight . http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42321 I have a compressor accessory kit( $7.00 on sale) http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42005 I also keep a tire pressure guage with it, and have the HF sparkplug cleaner mounted on the frame. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92360 2) a Pair of the Disposable but reuseable driers-set up with fittings to plug right inline, and the orange "protective" cage removed(it will melt when baked) 3) A small out of certification Scuba tank($12.00 from ebay) 4) The Rechargeable spray can. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=1102 5) Gloves for overspray. 6) The Respirator setup. I have about $140 in it excluding the respirator. #1 and #2 also work with my plasma cutter and a highpower inverter to let me go portable, and will sandblast, and power my HF"Earthquake" impact wrench-enough to break fasteners free and provide all of the other benefits of a compressor-but on a smaller, more portable scale than the 6hp 60 gallon version I keep in the garage.. Will Carl is right, POR15 is made of some nasty stuff, I used a filtered respirator as suggested at POR15.com, but it seemed to overtake the filters very quickly, so now I use a air induction system made from a Bipap machine(inherited from my mother), 40' of reinforced 1" tubing from Lowes and a full face firemans mask bought from ebay. I put the Bipap outside, and upwind of where I am painting. The Part number for the disposable "Mini Dessiccant Dryer" is 7473, and evidently is is an in store item only. The cage is now white, but still removeable.

Gary, I was going to post the same thing, but he is in NZ! Will

While the tech article is excellent, I suggest you buy the ZTherapy Video on tuning your carbs! Will

So as not to hijack this thread, check out this link(the last post), an dPM me with questions! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16361&page=2&pp=15 Will

Hp books Racer's Guide to Fabricating Shop Equipment No. S145 Will

Gary, is there more info on the adapter anywhere? Will

Check out the thread I linked above(in my second post on this thread), my thoughts will come mighty clear mighty fast! Will

I don't believe the Factory Nissan headlight covers are made of glass! I have a set, new old stock in the box and they are plastic! http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=12159&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 If you would like pictures of the box with the part numbers, I can accomodate you! Carl, I thought they sold the aftermarket covers as well-no catalog handy! Will

NOS Nissan bumpers usually go between $350 and $500, aftermarket or rechromes about 2/3 that. A used bumper that is presentable for a driver car, but needs some work to be ready for a rechrome job could go for between $75 and $250 depending on the damage. I can take some pictures of the set that came off my '72 over the next few days and tell you what I would expect them to sell for-if they were for sale. Will

Sounds lik a job for these! I adapted them to take stock and direct aftermarket springs so that I can figure out my ride height and move the perces on another set of struts to coinside-and appear authentic! Will

So was I! No offence taken, dander or blood pressure up! But what is a guy to do when two Rocket Scientists gang up on him-no fair having a satellite track me for target lock! Will

Gary-I would think you are right, but my answer was for fused silicate glass-you know I know about Plexi/Acrylic/Polycarbonate, etc! If clear plastic is what you are after, MSA/VB and many others sell them. The ones Gary(Beandip) is talking about are discussed here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14343&highlight=jdm+headlight+covers Will

Too much variation to evaluate without detailed front and back pictures! Dents and scratches make the value drop like a rock-only rust is worse! Will

Why put glass covers on? They are heavy, fragile, not repairable, and unless they are just too beautiful for words, I just can't see it. How about posting a link! Will

Hey Bryan, I am not talking about carbon fiber coating, 6" tailpipes, bikini clad mud flaps, carpetting dash, hanging fuzzy dice, attatching rebel flags, gun racks, or laying a chewing tobacco stain flowing down diagonally from the driver side window. I am just applying the judges rules for driver class-consistancy throughout the car. Changing the Yellow cadmium to chrome for two 1/8"wide bands on the steering rack, and buffing the area circled in blue on the picture below-part of it will be covered by the rack bushing as well. I do appologize if that is what a redneck in your part of the country would do, but, if you want it different, buy my car and do it your way, otherwise, I have only one person to make happy with my car, ME! That said, I do appreciate your opinion, I just don't happen to agree with it in this instance! Michael, I am not painting the small parts with POR15 for the same reasons-too much work, too little advantage. I am setting a whole day aside, laying out all of the parts, and spraying the POR15 to address the flash time between coats, and to end up with a better finish. I agree, Powder coating looks great, but the POR15 is paid for! Will

That would be the one! Will

I am also going to clean and chrome plate the "hose clamps" that are holding the bellows on the '76 rack that I have instead of using Zip ties-if they aren't too bad off. Will