hls30.com

Wow what a turn of events, watching TV for the commercials! I would have the TV on Full House too(at least once), if I could catch the commercial-just the sort of thing that throws the Neilsons out the window... WIll

Hey man, You still got that AUDITT? I had to have a laugh too! Don't hate me because you have a great car that looks like a couple of other cars... Will

Lexol is the best leather care out there, it is available from Pepboys, Advance Autoparts, and cheeper off the web. Post some pictures and measurements from your install for the archives. WIll

Napa stocks the bolts you need as well-inexpensively! Will

Enrique, Septic tanks are United States Soldiers. They hid their daughters from our GIs when they came over on R&R! When you think about is, a plane load of Bill Ramseys, I would probably hide my son too! Just Kidding Billl, but that hat worries me... Will

For a stock rebuild, look at ATK. http://www.atkengines.com/default.htm Will

Didn't the same guy see Ferris at 31 flavors last night? Will

At this point, we are interested in pictures, they will let us know if we should be interested in the car. Two more questions, Who is the owner? Is there a valid and defendable title? Will

Most of the bits for a 280ZX are less expensive than for the S30s, they are also much easier to find. I have a multitude of spares-I cleaned up an '82 grand luxury with t-tops, and accumulated more than I needed. all of the drive line from the engine to the differential is esxchangeable between the 240,260, 280s(including the ZX). For tthe most part any mechanical knowledge you gain on the ZX will transfer to the earlier Zs. The 280ZX is a more comfortable ride, but not nearly as much fun(I have both)-not counting tht t-tops. Let me know if you need any interior pieces, while most interior parts are shared, I have an 82 2+2 parts car(eng/ tranny is gone), but the rest of it is still there. WIll

What Carl said, in my young and stupid days, I thought I needed a clutch, fortunatly, I had a great mechanic who took care of the problem honestly, and said he would wait to charge me until there was some real work to do. Will

Should have bought Nissan! I didn't either, but mine came from the OEM supplier in Japan. Just bagged and tagged. Will

Are you sure that wasn't the "Save out Daughters demonstraters" chasing off another "young, fit, bronzed Aussie soldier"? I am wondering what "combat hardened" means, does it have to do with an extended lack of female companionship? Will

I haven never tried to move it away and pull the booster-sounds like it is worrth a try, but keep an eye on your lines, better to have to bleed again than to replace a crimped or collapsed hard line. Will

Another check, pump the brakes with the engine running, the idle speed should increase, if it doesn't, you need to repair/replace it. Will

Start her up and do it one more time, with no vacuum in the booster, air can hide! Will

It is the whole enchalada! They also came with grease fittings, castleated nuts and cotter pins-but they were all loose in the bag. Will

Don't get caught pouring it out with out checking with your local department of water and sewer, they fine first, and ask questions after you can no longer prove the answer-don't ask me how I have this knowledge, I don't remember.... Will

Good pernt! Will

If pumping works, you are not through bleeding. How are you bleeding the system? Is the engine running? Have you got a helper? Have you got a mightyvac? Will

No, this is the way they came in the box for replacement. Will

Even if the booster was bad, you would still have brakes-not nearly as good as with the booster, but standing on the pedal would stop the car. here are some suggestions 1) To check the booster, pull off the hose hoing from it to the intake manifold(take it loose at the manifold.) suck on it-the vacuum should not leak down, if it does, the diafram is broken. 2) Did you take the booster out of the car? If so, there is a pin inside it that holds the linkage that has probably fallen out-it is a pain in the azz to get back in. 3) Did you bleed the master cyl. by its self? Sounds like that is here your air is if you didn't. Will

Here are the pictures of the speedometer cables, obvious quality differences between them, the OEM unit has a spring wound about 18" to keep the cable out of trouble, both ends are metal, and there was a rubber seal to keep dirt out of the cable. It is too dark for good pictures, I will take more in the morning if that will help. If the offering from MSA is OEM, that's what I will do when this one goes away. Will

Here is one picture-the rest qre too dark-it is night time here, and I guess the flash just just isn't cutting it. There is a left and a right, but the only dfference I could see is where the hole for the grease fitting is, they are mirrored in placement left to right. I do know Carl is right, they are threaded opposite. I will be happy to take more pictures tomorrow if they will hlep. Will

My inners were good too. I think you covered almost everything, As soon as the MooCow (her words, not mine) quits pumping, I will dart out to the Zroom and take some pictures-I will make sure to capture any differences between the L & R tierods. Will

I'll shoot a picture of the uninstalled tie rods for you and post it here a little later this evening. Will