hls30.com

I have the one from VB-different from the OEM piece-I'll post a picture of the oem and the VB pieces here a little later tonight(The boy is home, and a hunting/layout trip to the Zroom will require Mom to watch him when she gets home from work.) Will

Well, nut huggers need nutZ to hug! Will

Most of the external "chrome" is acutally stainless steel. All of the window trim is stainless, the drip rails are stainless, as are the trims on the tail light finishers, the frames on the side markers, and the headlight rings. Only the door handles, emblems, and strip between the tail light lenses is actually chrome. Will

You guys must wear boxers! Will

Unfortunately that is not rain, that is the humidity when the sun is high, bright, and hotter than your tires after a great lap! Will

But then what temp Tatoo would he have used? Yikes!!! Will

I have three cars that will be getting L28ETs, and I will keep the L24 for a future restoration of the '72. I have a bunch of parts cars, but... Will

I meant either one, they have an L28ET and the L24 out of my '72 on them-two more L28ETs waiting their turns... Will

I have two of those, and to tip one over, you have to try! Will

Vb sells them, $25 or so. MSA probably also caries them. Will

Try that in 95-99% humidity-you will get bubbles in the POR right after application, and if you used a compressor to spray, unless you have an effective air dryer, it will be far worse. The humidity causes a skin to form quickly and seal causing the inside to take a good while to harden-pressure causes the skin to break away if you don't wait long enough-I normally put on 3 light coats. Eagan, Huh. I have a friend who lives in another suburb of Wisconsin, Minneapolis/St. Paul! She hates it when I say that! Yes I know who the real cheese heads are! Will

I found the problem, a large nut (no, not me) had fallen between the the bar and the chassis just outboard of a side bend, a drip of old undercoating(I used a torch to remove it) held to nut in place, and that was the new pivot-thanks for the help. The geometry made sence, but the actual situation had the geomerty out. Will

I drive a Volvo S80, and while I bought it as the safest car I could find, but it is only part of the plan. I have the first reponsability to not cause and to avoid accidents. The safety of the car is for those situations where I don't see it comming. I don't smoke, I very seldom use a cell phone in a car, and I know others are not as focussed in their driving habbits(a video posted in one of the forums of an idiot repeatedly forcing a V8 Z to lose traction on a city street in traffic comes to mind). I bought the car to save my family from them, not to give me a "10 foot tall and bullet proof" mentality when sitting in the drivers seat. That said, it is very comfortable, but not very quick-not a car for "turning tricks". Will

I have not, but I know it has been done. Will

I understand the geometry of your answer, but, If the bar is deflected(harder to get on the freaking link), would that not be evidence that it has been preloaded? More work required to get it where it was(but an inch further) means something had to change-unless I have misunderstood Newtons third law-or applied it incorrectly. If nothing else changed, same bar, same mounts, same car-only new bushings-what am I missing? I will go back and check every inch for binding or something misplaced acting as a pivot. Will

I have had several hoods shipped via Greyhound-even one from California where buses are know to contain chemicals that... Unless it is packed and supported well, don't expect it to come though dent free, the bus loaders toss baggage and other items in how ever tight they can-not the it will be destroyed, but expect it to have some dents it didnt have. I had the last one crated with 2x4s and melamine-the box was damaged, but the hood came out ready to install. $50 for crating was cheeper than two hours of hammer and dolly work! Will

If the sealer is still wet, put the air hose to it, if not, put the tank in the back of the truck and have it done. I have tried filling the tank up with water & co2-not nearly as easy as it sounds-and welding. No explosion, but no success either. Save yourself the 2 to 3 hours of immensely heightened stress from the nervousness and anxiety-get it done by a shop that has been there enough times to know what to do comfortably. Will

You have it right, The tierods are readily available-any national chain, most local mom and pops, MSA, VB, ebay.... I used a pickle fork to get mine apart(cheep tool), but there are specialty tools available as well. Will

Carl, That could be. What really made me question is the fact you can buy just the bushings, or the bushings and the links(the bushings in either case are the same). either way must be acceptable-I guess an email to energy suspensions couldn't hurt. Will

Getting the pool would not be the problem, keeping the neighbor hood kids out would be. Seriously when you get ready to change the fluid, or move the pool, what do you do with the leftovers-it will be caustic from all of the removed solids, and the chemical breakdown of the original mix-if it never changed chemically, you would never need to freshen or replace it, and you will. Look at how the fluid has changed with the few parts you have done already. A gallon or two won't get noticed in a storm drain-not that I am saying that is where to put it. But a couple of hundred gallons would interest your city/county/state government, and make you a target for anything else you did that the neighbors missunderstood/didn't like, one call that's all. Will

Thanks for the article, but the reason for the differences actually has nothing to do with the old bushings, one of the pictures inthe article you provided the link for shows that the difference is due to the spacer (provided by Energy Suspensions) is not as long as the distance between the shoulders on the factory piece. I have used Urethane bushings before-the single kit did not come with new hardware, only bushings, and that is the real reason for my question. Will

I was looking at the swaybar links that came with my Energy Suspensions Urethane kit, and noticed that the distance between the washers is greater than the factory pieces. This looks like it would effectively pre-load the swaybar. Any thoughts? I cleaned up a set of factory links, so I could use them instead of those supplied with the kit. I am at a quandry over which would be better to use, authentic pieces or third party. Will

OOPs! Will

I have used walnut shells for all lubricated parts for years, never though about using them anywhere else, HMMMM! 26th, I look folward to your article, and I am sure there is more in your process than I know about. My only consergn with stripping all of the metal is: Here in the South, unless you are doing to dip the car in a galvanizing bath or come other coating after its caustic/electric bath, every time you open the door, humidity will be inside the car, and every temperature change will cause condensation, meaning there is water on the inside sheet metal. Granted, that may not be a large problem, but it is still a worry to me, that is why I am stripping the outside, and spot treating on the inside. Your chosen path will absolutely beat mine on getting rid of existing rust, but my consergn is also not creating more places for attack-but my car will be driven every day, and probably sometimes see the inside of a carport, not a garage-except on rare occasions. Will

But, look what it did to your car! After cleaning, it is plaiting, only backwards! brilliant! Will