hls30.com

I pulled the pins when I wrote the other thread- they are out! I have accumulated all of the parts for a puller-but until I need to pull another one, I will wait to put it together. Today I will be out by Harbor Freight so I will see what kind of press the store has in stock-they have things that aren't in the catalog, and they don't stock everything in the catalog. This afternoon I will do the final sandblasting of the suspension components, and prep them for paint. Will Will

I bought the Energy suspensions set off Ebay for about 135 with shipping-it has every bushing in the suspension. I also bought the adjustable pieces that go at the spindle pin and the front that is pictured in my first post in this thread-they came from VB, and do the "wrenches" must be ordered as well Will

Bill, Replacing the 30 year old bushings makes the car handle better, The bushings deteriorate through time, and really were not all that firm to begin with. using urethane throughout the bushings will take a great deal of the compliance out of the suspension and allow the components to react sooner rather than later, meaning the transient responce will improve, and the feel of the car will be considerably "tighter!" I am using adjustable bushings to allow for more allignment adjustability so that hopefully I have more adjustment to "dial in" the car. Will

I would get one from: http://www.turboneticsinc.com/index.html But then my car would not be "authentic"! Or rebuild one myself. I will write up a technical article-I have to rebuild one in the next several weeks for the 240Z anyway. I had a terrific Turbo guy, but he has vaporized! There is quite a lot to getting a turbo that is right to both an engine and a right foot(here in the USA). Will

I am going over my rack too. I have cleaned all of the grime off, and performed a precursory wire brushing. I noticed two(see the picture) 6mm bolts(8mm heads) covering passages that are for grease. After I strip and paint the housing, and relube the bare metal that moves through the rack, I will install two 6mm grease fittings, and load them up with grease. I am replacing the tierod ends, but it looks like someone had either kept the balljoints and rack well lubricated, or had replaced both in relatively short mileage-no wear on either! Will

Todays progress A case for and against cheep tools This afternoon I removed the rubber bushings from some of my suspension components. I used cheep tools from Harbor Freight. I have had a 6 ton shop press for years, So earlier in the week I popped over to Harbor Freight and picked up a bushing/bearing driver kit and a few things that were on sale (a cotterpin assortment, a metric grease fitting assortment, a couple of flourescent lights, and some other odds and ends). I looked at what I had, and realized none of the drivers in the bearing driver kit were large enough to handle the bushings in the Mustache bar, I checked a few of my sockets, but I had loaned out my large ones. Then I thought all you need to do is punch a hole in this bushing. i had picked up a $2.50 9pc hole saw kit, and sure enough, the 1&3/4 40mm blade was a good fit. I placed it teeth down on the bushing and placed a 2" pipe nipple under the bushing and pressed most of the rubber out with ease, withing 5 minutes, both sides were finished. I took the bar outside, and poured a little MEK on the remaining rubber, and left it to work. Next, I removed the bushings from the front suspension arms in two parts First I pressed out the inner sleeve that the bolt goes through. I just used a 2" pipe nipple at the base of a 6 ton Shop Press and used the ram of the press to push out both center sleeves. Then I used the 1&3/16" x 1&5/16" bearing bushing driver insert (it actually is stepped and the smaller step fits into the outer sleeve while the larger step come just to the outside of the larger sleeve) between the ram and the bushing collar-it pressed the first one right out. The second one was not moving. As I added more pressure, I started to hear things snapping, so I stopped, backet off the pressure, and found the frame of the press had succumbed to the pressure-I have had this press 10 years, and abused it well beyond what i expected for the $60 I paid for it, so I was going to go down to Harbor Freight and get a better one-I found a 12 Ton on sale for $80-but a phone call to the local store revealed that they did not stock that one. So I had one side that was complete and one side that was related to a typical spindle pin. I tried the three pieces in the vice and squeezing, but no dice. This was not going to beat me! Then I put som PBBlaster on the sleeve, placed the 2" pipe nipple on a 1/4" steel plate, put the bottom of the bushing inside it, and took the bearing driver insert, mounted it on its drift, and wailed on ity with a 3# hammer. Ten minutes later, the sleeve was out. Other than the $60 press, I used a blade out of a$4.99($2.50 on sale) hole saw kit, a driver out of a $9.99($5.99 on sale)Bushing/Bearing kit, a pipe fitting, and $6.99($3.99 on sale) hammer. I know I could not have beat the hole saw through the rubber, but after securing the mustache bar in the vice, I probably could have used a drill with the hole saw and cut it out. Beating out the other suspension arm bushing would not have been very hard. Will

Clean the inside of the windshield with laquer thinner, then alcohol and vinegar-sounds like you may have dash protectant on the glass. The plastic is between two layers of glass. Anything that won't etch it should be ok, but be careful with the seals-rubber is not MEK safe! Will

I thought it was a bit of an astray on a motorbike, and probably an aussie version of rice! Will

Come on Mr. Camouflage, An Aussie Salute is just a couple of finger movements too! :tapemouth Every one knows a bloke can get a great deal more enjoyment using your "finger movements" :stupid: some place else-you don't even need mouse clicks-not my bowl of rice, mind you, but some of the fellas give it a go! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: I reckon a jumbuck and a motorbike wouldn't hurt the old fella either -thanks for the photo Carl-it is burnt into my retnas! Before you spit the dummy, that could be a furphy, but I reckon even a septic can be a larrikin! :cheeky: On the badges" "I bought some nissan replacement badges, and the 240Z and Datsun badges for the rear hatch are different to the original ones. The original have sharp edges, and the new ones have rounded edges. the script is identical, just the surrounding black parts that are different. So since they are the Nissan replacement parts with the same part number, but they are different to the original badge, what does that make them?" The answer is sweet parts on a sick car that aren't authentic! :laugh: Will

I didn't even think of that one... Must be the fumes.... Will

See the Link to tabco on the front page. Will

I don't know either, But I must take some credit there, evidently the verbage I used to ask the question was confusing to a good many people. If I defined authentic, there would be no reason for the poll. Will

The fender line is similar, but not the same, he headlight openings are similar, but not very close, the Hood line is completely different. With the amount of work needed to make them really close, you would probably be better off to get the front clip you really want. Will

i agree, if it doesn't have the parts Nissan sent it from the factory with, it is not 100% authentic, but... If the story about Mr. K. pulling off the fairlady emblems is true... Hmmmmm... Will

The only way water can get between the layers is if the glass starts delaminating-that usually looks like bubbles around the edges, or at a pit or cracks going all the way to the lamination. The windshield in my '72 (original glass) has these bubbles around the edges. I had to have a stone chip repaired on the Volvo, so I asked about repairing the bubles. According to Harmon AutoGlass, there is no way. However, since the windshield is out, and the edges are available, I am going to try to repair the bubbles by subjecting the affected areas to a vacuum and introducing the same material the glass restorers us for the stone chips. Worst case, I waste some time, $10, and don't re-use a windshield I wouldn't use anyway. Best case, The repair works, and I don't jave to replace the windshield. Will

Having taken all of the glass out of several Zs, all of it comes with a slight uniform blue tint-most aftermarket glass has the darker tint band at the top of the winshield. Will

I have to agree with Carl. Will

Bryan, "The only way I think you could get by is if the part was no longer available or Nissan officially substituted a later part for an earlier model Z (e.g., Upper shift boot)." That is exactly what I was describing in the question. If the Nissan Factory supplied microfiche shows an interchange, then that part is useable. If the parts happens to fit, but is not listed in the fiche as an authorized replacement-that is not what the question was dealing with. Evidently I was to enthusiastic about the question, and not diligent enough when phrasing the question... Will

Ajax, Clean up and replate, or replace, that bolt before putting it in service-and either thoroughly cleanup or replace the oil lines-any crud lets loose and oil gets blocked, toasting in the turbo (COKING) sending the sleeve bearings on the journey to the bearing graveyard. Don't over look the extra heat that water cooled turbo will be placing on the radiator-the stock 240Z radiator just won't do. Will

Ajax, What you have is water cooled, and the round port is where the water goes. On the oil passages, the one with the larger opening is the drain-the oil comes out frothy. The specs of the turbo-other than being water cooled-are the same for the 280ZXT and the early model 300ZXT. Will

Rick- I must have have come a guster. What I thought I said was" I was earbashing you about the different air cleaner housings, and for some strange reason, thinking about the "homemade bumper(ok, a bumper is not a bull bar) thread". http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16223&page=1&pp=15&highlight=homemade+bumper , but this isn't a bumper! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7059 Could it be a bull bar? I have had bronchitis-lots of bush oysters(yes the same kind) come from having that particular malady, and with the frequency and volume I was producing them, I figured I'd harvest them into some tissue rather than the normal alternative-orwrapping in bacon and frying them up!. The boy has just had his first cold-meaning I stayed home with him. Will

Just one, Don't touch the coil! Seriously, contact Crane-they will know if something is wrong Will

Alfadoag, The parts that are superceeded by Nissan are usually similar, but not identical. They generally have been changed for one of several reasons: 1)Economies in manufacturing-it is cheeper to make one part that fits two cars. It is also cheeper to change tooling once than change each one of 5000 or more parts. 2) A parts subcontractor is replaced and there is anoticeable difference in the equivalent part from another source. 3) Conformation to legislation mandates a change in the parts-big bumpers! 4) A deficiency is found in the design of a part-headlight buckets form composit to steel. 5) A manager could get laid for making a change-nookie(or the lack there of) can make almost anything happen. Just making sure you weren't sleeping... Anyway, ther are several reasons for a change in part numbers, and most of them would be cause for a design revision, which usually does alter visual appearance. Will

Carl, I knew you answered the question. I didn't ask you to answer it again. I just pointed out that all I was after was your answer. That said, I enjoyed reading your answer again, and I still agree with it. I am more worried with getting the car to my standards than anyone elses. But the answer to the question and the way I want my car are not mutually exclusive. I can agree with a deffinition, and not feel it is relevant to a situation. The strict verbage of the question was in relation to the word "authenticity" and the original condition and aggregation of parts, and delivery of a car by the Nissan Corporation. I do not want an authentic car, I want a enjoyable car. That is why my car will have the hatch glass with vertical defrosters, JDM headlight covers, an aftermarket audio system, a L28et, GM engine management, and a "2400" Valve cover-among other things. My car will be exactly what I want it to be- but it will not be authentic. Will

I bought a set on ebay a while back from "The Datsun Dude". Maybe he is watching... Will