hls30.com

you mean like the people Boyd employ! !!! Will

Enrique, From the first part of what you wrote: "Factory designated "Replaced By" parts are what you would receive if you were still taking your car to the dealer for service. Does that mean that Dealer Repairs are devaluating your car when they effect maintenance "by the book"", you got the relevence of the question posed in the poll. As to the the bit about tires, your argument makes my point exactly. Lots of Zs have been repainted the right color, but not with the right paint. Nissan had part numbers listed in the fiche for specific paint, not just specific color. Unless the car was bought and placed in a vacuum(or absolutely devoid of any maintanence), some factory supplied parts will have been replaced, changing the level of authenticity. Beign reasonable has nothing to do with the truth. Alfadog I thought that requiring a replacement part to listed in the Nissan Fichefor a specific model would have made it very clear what I am talking about. Lots of Genuine Nissan parts will fit, but only a few were superceeded with new Nissan part numbers within Nissans' Dealer parts list. There are no aftermarketparts listed in the Nissan Fiche as authorized and supplied by this club . If you go to the dealer to buy a new front crossmember for a late 240Z, (assuming the dealer does not have an original piece in stock, and has to order it from Nissan, you will not get the part number listed on the line out of the parts fiche for a '73 240z, You will get a part number listed on a line corresponding to a later model, but indicated as a proper and acceptable replacement for the 73 as well. Those parts listed in the Nissan Fiche are the only parts I am talking about. The only standard used in this thread is the parts must be called for the model in question in the Nissan parts fiche. Mr. Camouflage, If you didn't care, you wouldn't have wasted the energy to post, you cranky knocker! Carl, I am looking for your view, not someone elses. I want to know what Carl thinks, not what the ZCCA thinks. Will

Rick, I'm honobbing with a Bannana Bender, trying to figure out a bullbar from another thread... all because I'm not within a cooee of putting my Z back on the street!. I'm beginning to feel rooted for getting the Z ready for the MSA show because I have have been harvesting a crop of bush oysters for two weeks. Between me and the wee one, No work on the car for two weeks... Will

I think Boyd is Dr. Evil, and Duane is Number 2, only they aren't funny, But what they lack in personability they make up for in tallent-paid tallent, Many Bosses can't wipe their behinds with out good and tallented people, and unfortunately, many good and tallented people don't get much accomplished with out bosses. Will

Gavin, what I meant by factory interchange parts is those parts listed in the fiche as being replaced by a new partnumber, not just the parts that will fit. Will

Ok, the poll is up!

Does using "FACTORY"(Sorry Mike(and Carl), I just had to get the F-word in the first poll) interchanged parts in a restoration hurt its authenticity? Why or Why not in the thread, strict answer on the poll.

Thanks Stephen-I was just too factory lazy to go to the FAQ page(if it is there)! -It is! Will

I have theree Welders, a Century 90/100 amp MIG setup with gas and solid wire bought new from Sams 10 years ago for $400 A Victor Oxy/Acetelyne with 15 tips and a cutoff torch, A gift from a retired master tool maker. I also have a Meco Midget torch. And a 240V Airco variable frequency/voltage/reversing Tig that will also stick weld, bought used 2 years ago for $500 added $100 in new parts and supplies. This is the kind you see hanging from a crane at a large construction site, it could weld the contenal shelf together! But the coolest thing is the Thermal Dynamics 380 Plasma Cutter, Writing your name through a piece of steel plate is just too cool! But cutting out the entire floor on one side of the cockpit in less than 10 minutes is just sick! Now if I could just improve my writing! bought last year, $877 Will

Carl, What is it with you and instructions? Oops, I meant me and instructions, so far The only reigns and direction I have are: "Ok will... you got it. You're now the monthly poll moderator. Come up with some good stuff. Keep it related to our site and rated PG. hehe" I posted a poll in the thread, and I assume Mike has to place it on the front page. As to my answer on the poll (see the third line of this post), it depends on the use of the car. If its only mileage is from rolling out of the garage and onto a trailer and back, then it needs parts from its closest clones, if it is curb art, then appropriate "Factory" replacement parts used in later(or earlier) models are fine. By the same token, I don't believe any judge (or buyer) will open up a subsystem to see if the guts of the oilpump, alternator, crankshaft, wiper motor or the valve seals have been changed out when the pieces on the outside look visually correct. How many restored "as original" cars have the correct paint(not just color)? Paint is a part that came on the car, it is listed in the Fiche! I seem to recall our most detail oriented member hiding something under a label...and not getting flagged for having the label where there shouldn't have been one. No foul called there, and it was a show! Will

The current aftermarket covers have no seal other than the black version of the door edge moulding. The JDM variety have a strip of closed cell rubber glued around the underside of the lens. It has about an 1" to 1.5" opening between the edges-that is to say the ends of the strip are not butted together-see my gallery for a picture of what I am talking about. I will look at the options for the seal when I have the two major pieces done, my thoughts on the seal now are a black ribbed silicone tape-no chance of paint damage, easily sourced, installed, removed, cleaned, and reinstalled(if you need to polish a scratch out of a cover). But having a donut seal with a U shaped cross section might be a good thing too, Ill check into it. Will

Rick Which one? For us septics, there are several! Will

I had emailed them when they opened the wheel shop-but at that time they had nothing for us. Now that they do, I am interested, I would like more info/pictures. I had explored getting the proper materials(6061, Fortal, etc) to make my own wheels, I have a CNC Mill/Lathe-limited to 17" swing over the bed-but the blank cost was WAY Outrageous for buying only 4-wonder if... and what Boyd would sell blanks for... Will

I placed the poll on another thread. please respond there!!!! Does using "FACTORY"(Sorry Mike(and Carl), I just had to get the F-word in the first poll) interchanged parts in a restoration hurt its authenticity? Why or Why not in the thread, strict answer on the poll. For example: Using a part that came on a '77 that is now the Nissan authorized replacement on a '71. Will

That is most probably the plastic door edge moulding, just as the black trim that typically comes with that type of headlight cover is-still, it looks nice. The trim is available from most autoparts stores, Kmart and Walmart for around $7. Will

Thanks Alan, and David, I figured that there must be a difference, and that it probably had to do with the compliance with crash safety and dealing with problems that were found along the way(the steering rack turning in its mounts). Hopefully I will get some time today to compare a 4100 and 4103 a side by side. I will post the results for the archive. Will

I am trying to find out the differences between the two front suspension members that were used on the S30. Actually there were four, but three of the four are in a replacement succession. From the club fiche: 54401-E4100 was used through 7/73 54401-N3402 was used from 8/73 through 11/74 54401-N3403 was used from 12/74 through 12/76, and superceeded N3402 54401-N4700 was used from 1/77 on and superceeded N3403 The MSA catalog lists one from 69-74,and one from 74 on, which agrees with the club cd interchange data. Does anyone really know what is different between them? I can get one from a '76 parts car, and compare it to the one off my '72, but if some one has already been there and done that, I sure would like the benefit of his(or her) experience. Thanks, Will

Brandon Auto Salvage 800-282-7462 $50 plus shipping Will

I am with you guys, while I am a buyer I want the price low. Willl

I did not try Annealing, but I will get some more equipment, and give it a go. it also occurred to me the sample I used may have been mislabeled, I will try again using new verified stock. Will

I guess you really had to read between the lines huh? The first and the last lines that is! Will

I can get .020 4'x8' T304 at the local sheet metal supplier for about $55 a sheet, in either brushed or polished. I tried rolling the contour in T304, but it was too brittle and cracked with the tight radius bends that the trim needs(at the edges). My forming method will be dependant on the material. I have a Shoptask 17XMTCGold with the CNC kit, I have considered machining an 8 piece die set, among other things... Will

"We specialize in race car parts and custom fabricate..." From the looks of the auction, they have an "a" where an "i" should be. It should read: "We specialize in RICE car parts and custom fabricate..." If it takes them 32 hours to make those parts, when do they find the time to race, much less to win, much less make parts for West Coast Customs? The cars do look serious, but they are made using mostly off the shelf stuff. All of the fabricators that I know have their best work on their own cars-oops, looks like that is the case here too-if you get my meaning. The parts are at the most prototypes, If the manufacturer/fabriator hasn't figured that out yet, they obviously have not been in manufacturing/fabrication long enough-and may not be. It is not that the parts aren't shiney, and they don't appear to have mold flaws, but those parts are not finished with the development stage yet, they are not finished from a design or manufacturing standpoint. Once the molds are made(Assuming they are properly made molds), and there are only three one part molds needed for the parts listed(1 for the cowl panel, One for the tail light panel, and one for the "console", the rest of the parts are made on a sheet of glass since they are flat, and then trimmed. Those parts should take a properly set up shop less than 2 hours of actual hands on time(Mold layup in a vacuum bag, removal, trim, and pack). A properly made mold will eliminate the need for any finish work on the final piece-other than trimming. As for not being able to buy those parts anywhere else in the world, two comments. 1)Those should be back yard parts-they do not require the services of 32 hours of a $60 an hour shop to fabricate-a competent shop would know this-and produce them only if paid in advance. 2) The only place in the world that those parts can be bought is from a 6 transaction BUYER on Ebay, who has not sold anything on Ebay before. Including the name of the shop making them would go a long way in establishing credibility-if it weren't for the lack of development on these custom fabricated parts. They do have a good study on the way to what could be a great and maybe even an $1890 finished product. If I made those parts, I would charge about $300 plus shipping-but those are not parts I would waste my time making-at least not in their present stage of development. If I were a racer, and serious about it, I would have made an 43lb one-piece CF front end, or a tuned CF intake manifold, or a tuned CF air box, or rivet on CF brake ducts, a CF drive shaft, and not wasted my time with parts that realy are not needed in a racecar anyway. I would make pieces no one else has, but that would be a real and verifiable benefit to a racer, not a ricer. Will

Come on Carl, It is only the last eight words of my previous post on this thread that that are important! Will

Don't forget that BJ bidders have to pay $350 and submit to financial scrutiny before they are allowed to bid-places them in the "I get nothing for $350 unless I do buy a car", or, more probably in the "don't bore me with the details Burt, call me back when you have bougth the car." categories. Vicky, that was cruel and unusual-you beat me to it...I think that word needs to be in the list of the words that the shout box won't take with out manipulation. Will