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Same here Nate, Advance is the only store in Savannah that caries BPR6ESII. They are unbelieveable, there locked in stock position calls for 5 on the shelf, some moron with District Manager behind his name hasn't figured out that is a problem-even with emails and phone calls. So I have to order them as well... Will

If you can, just hold on, better answers are being worked out.... Will

Micheal, It is a Datsun, and it does have Z wheels, but it aint a 240Z! The louvers look good, but a running and finished 240Z would look much beter in the yard-get the grass growing first, if that can leave ruts, I would hate to think what your right foot and a sweet running Z would do... Will

Check around the blower fan under the dash. There is a fresh air vent under the cowl panel at the base of the windshield. If the drains for this area(they drain into the fenders-search the archives, E scanlion did a great article...) are slow or blocked, they can let water build up, and enter through the vent. The vent is also prone to rust, so you could have a hole there. Also check the lower corners of your front windshield, they frequently drip if they are not sealed correctly. WIll

Pretty...glad you found that now! Will

I bought two extinguishers. 1) A medium sized Halon extinguisher to use first because it has no residues, and leaves nothing to cleanup or cause corrosion after use-dry extinguishers contain chemicals that will cause corrosion. Halon is no longer being made(it is a CFC), but is is readily recyleable, and still available-though more expensive than other extinguishers. All commercial aircraft are required by the FAA to use Halon extinguishers and nothing else. 2) A large conventional ABC Fire extinguisher to use if the Halon doesn't get the job done. I would rather have something that needs massive cleaning, than nothing. Will

ChrisA, According to BestBuy(and Critchfield, and every other electronics store), they don't have anything that fits a 240Z-where are your priorities when it comes to disposable income? God forbid you spend money on anything but the 3 necessities (gas, oil and anything else you need for the Z). Food, Clothing and Shelter are over rated... Window tint and rally clocks fall into the anything else group! Will

Check this ricer ad out! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7950731979&category=36475 The seller makes it sound like replacing non structural panels in a Z will get the weight down to 1900lbs-not sure if he means using the pieces he is selling will or not, but the answer is NO! $1800 plus $90 shipping for cosmetic parts that are not functional(or even named correctly)-the cowl pannel has no vents in it(and only one opening for a wiper)-say good by to the fresh air intake, the door trim panels have no cut outs for window cranks or arm rests(probably no mounting holes either), The center console is a plate that fits into the dash. Most race cars using carbon fiber to reduce weight would put the $1800 in replacing larger, heavier sheet metal(bumpers, hood and fenders), either remove the cardboard and plastic or leave the interior panels alone. $50 worth of materials, $200 worth of time(including making the forms and laying the materials), and $1640 in his pocket! I would guess that using these panels could save maybe 19 pounds at the far outside, at $1890 that's $100 a pound! I can think of better use for that money in a racing budget! Will

I have tinted the windows in almost all of my Zs. With patience and time you can do as good ajob as any shop, if you want it done fast, take it to somone. It is tricky to get the hatch glass tinted in one piece of film. I have never had a problem tinting the quarter windows with one piece. I usuall do the hatch glass in three pieces, and place the seams at the defroster lines. I am going to tint all of the windows on my 240, while they are off the car-much easier in a climate controlled atmosphere. I am using a sputtered titamium film with the highest heat rejection and lowest light absorbtion I could find, something like 17% tint, I am hoping to do all of the windows-including the windshield-to help out the A/C. The dash was clearly the largest source of stored heat when I checked all of the surfaces with and IR thermometer after a day in the Ga. sunshine. Georgia recently changed its tinting laws, but 17% would never have caused a problem anyway. Will PS. the inside of the windows are tinted, and you can usually peel the tint off and wipe off the adhesive with amonia, or shave it with a razor blade-but be carefull, you can scratch the window doing it that way. I usually use fine brasswool and amonia or laquer thinner to get adhesive (or overspray) off the glass, the brass wool will not scratch the glass, or leave particles to rust as steel wool can.

Just when I thought my dreams were safe... Some one posts a picture of a nightmare! Just goes to show us where the roots of rice were... And anyone can wonder why the 280ZX was the Disco light show it it... Will

Bill, I am forever guilty of to many projects, and not enough time. My advice is get one going, finish it to the point you could drive it anywhere with no problems, and not be embarassed to do so. Then and only then start something else. I have three project cars, two of which are going off to containerized storage in the next month or so, they will be put back in progress when the 240Z is screaming ready for the MSA show(even if that is next year). When they are done, then the 300ZXTT search will begin. Will

NickF To keep the original appearance,and to improve the longevity thereof, a specific thickness of material must be used, the materials you suggested would be too maleable in the needed thickness to support the mounting hardware without deforming. The available headlight covers are smaller, they actually fit inside the opening, whereas the JDM variety actually lay on top(they are larger) of the headlight bucket, in addition, the mounting hardware for the JDM version does not actually attatch throught the actual cover material, but instread olny attatches through the rim. I have considered using a stronger alloy of aluminum and after polishing, and either annodizing with a very slight blueish tint to simulate chrome plating, or actually chrome plating. I appreciate any and all suggestions, I want these to be a welcome and awe inspiring addition to our cars, and any suggestions to improve (initially with no appearane changes) them will be taken seriously. Thanks for your input, Will

Hate to rub your nose in it Bill, but... What Carl said!!! Will

Hey Mike, the first set goes on my car! Titanium don't bend too easily! Will

I double checked my information, and I found conflicts between the sources and my notes. What I need is 436(or close) not 346. That damned Dyslexia... The alloy must be readily formable, and not prone to work harden appreciably(rules out T304). Will

I just gotta jump in here lest I be dismissed as a rock. The next non S30 Z I will own is a 300ZZTT, it is the second coming of the Z to me(even though I already own a 280ZX). It is a rather large stray from the 240Z, but what in the lineage isn't. The late 300ZX body style is pleasing to me(easily second to the 240Z), granted all of the Z(x)s up until the curent derivation had unique side views-in that they were not easliy confusable with and audi or an infinty, or any other car for that matter, if only the designer had seen a 240Z instead of an AudiTT moments before he was to draw the finalized 350Z design-even a new Mustang is easily traced visually to its roots! I appreciate the mecahical and technical advances that each Z(X) has gained over the previous version, it is too bad that the styling has been so hit and miss. In 5 decidedly different body styles there aren't many ques that carried over, nor is there but one other I like, the late model 300ZX! Will

"Two words: Aluminum Foil" I have six words, here they are! Damn, wish I thought of that! Will

Carl, The leds Dave is using are most definitely for illumination, they are the brightest leds available. We are using them for all of the lighting to be sure that we have consistant output. The only dissadvantage is that they have a narrowly focussed beam. I have thought up alternative interior lighting that does not alter the interior panels of the car, when I finish the exterior lights, and have them on the way to Dave for his approval/critique, I will start on them. If my car isn't finished in time for the MSA meet, I will bring some of the lights with me to check out in one of the members cars. Will

Carl, Dave put "track lights" in the panel-He sent me a picture several weeks ago, and I was all up about cutting holes in a good panel, but the one he used already had damage. Will

Here you go Carl! Will

In a conscious effort to make all of the external signal lighting have the same brightness in the running light mode, so I have started with the dual signal lights first, when I get the balance between the two states right, the lower state will be made uniform for the rest of the lights, and be finished in short order. That said, I have been working on the front combination lights, and I am still not satisfied with the situation. I am going to make a few more changes, and if they work out. send a series of pictures to Dave by the end of the week, followed at the first of next week by a pair of the lights for him to evaluate and return(the first pair is for my car!). If, after the remaining changes, they are still not up to snuff, I have yet another evil plan to make the combination lights conform to my idea of perfection, and I will start again. When these dual signal lights are completely sorted out, I will apply the same design to the tail lights, and they will get done much faster. Will

Bill, TomoHawk, I started a similar thread early last year, to sheck the desire for a stainless steel bumper or cover-not a lost of response. PS, wouln't it be kinna hard to chrome plate or polish a section of telephone poll? :stupid: WIll

MikeW, I sent one to Ed a month or so ago, I will see if I can't come up with another one for you. Will

Chris, I always thought the L6s were sexy! I can't believe you have never heard of the greatest nissan inline 6 that never existed! it was a typo-ignore the W, it is silent anyway. Will

I am converting my L28WET to A GM 1227749 ecm. It takes tons of time, about $1000us (including a laptop), and a mess of parts from the GM donor car and the Nissan donor car. I am working on a complete and detailed conversion manual, and hope to have it all done by the MSA show at the end of april. Will