hls30.com

Dave, I just wanted to give the 2 yr old thread better info, I should have finished the job by linking to your thread-my bad, btw, get ready to start checking your mail... WIll

I can only hope you guys don't go the sanding the contacts route, sanding a copper connector that was not made to be unplugged and replugged frequently instead of proper(Chemical) cleaning and lubrication simply places the remnants of what you sanded away right back into the connection-meaning it will take even less time for the problem to come back, and worse, sanding increases the surface area for the corrosion to act on, and reduces the "meat" of the connector. Save the sandpaper for bodywork, and get a can of deoxit, your electrical connections will not need a "touchup" (or worse) down the road. Will

I am not sure where I was when this thread happened, but I am sure it involved diapers. Congratulations! I may have to plan a road trip to see your new 4 wheeled baby! Maybe a car Shower of sorts-arghh, too much cuteness exposure-it is dementing me...let me know what she needs! Will

I am going going to reserve a hotel room (hopefully close to the show or at the hotel of choice) and push like crazy to birth the car before the show. Thomas is already in Daycare, and Trisha(The MooCow or mobile milk bar as she calls herself in jest) goes back to work on Monday. I will be rearranging my schedule to perform the majority of my employment satisfaction in the evenings/early morning, leaving (hopefully) a large lit portion of the day available for gestational activities on the Z! If she is born in time, I will linkup at I10 in Talahassee for the drive, if not I will probably fly in a day ahead, and attend the show car-less, but either way I will bring samples of what I have made for the S30s. If this all goes to plan, I will be posting pictures of progress daily starting on Monday-if not, please apply boots to my butt and a smathering of(expletive deleated) to my pm account! Will

Anybody with more details-as of 3:15 PM EST, nothing on zcarparts.com but last year! Will

Oh my stash!!! :tapemouth WIll

Oh my stash!!! WIll

One of the other Z sites(HybridZ if memory serves) has an article about adapting 76/77/78 retractable seatbelts to the 240Z, but be aware that the strut towers in a 240Z are not as tall as those from the later cars(the reason the quarter window trim is different), so the upper belt will be coming from behind at a substantially lower angle than intended. Will

Carl, Don't forget the hash stash! Will

$600 is too high, I bought a complete '83 ZX Turbo for $361 and a running Na 280zx well worn, but with no bodyrot for $500. Take $300 cash and wave it under his nose, if you want the car more than that put another $100 in your pocket. I would wait, and look for a running rust bucket, check the paper, tellnsell, pennysaver, and the like. What you are hunting for is out there... Will

Good thoughts on both accounts, but Vicky is right in this instance, there is some "room" in the original ECM, but not loads of it, there is a point not to far off that the ECM will not be able to handle, and fine tuneing the additions above will probably be on the other side, but gains can be had in getting closer than the stock volumes of gas and air, as long as the ratio of one to the other going into the engine(before the ECM has to do its thing) are not to far out of whack. Will

I believe it is T346, .020" I'll check my notes tomorrow. Thanks, Will

If you are going to add more gas, you have got to add more air to use it, put a big bore throttlebody(and ream out the intake manifold to match), and you may well see some gain. Will

I am having a difficult time finding a supplier for the right alloy(evidently it is rare) of stainless steel for the trim, everyone wants to sell an entire container instead of 10 sheets-the temporary lens molds are being finished so that they can be used to cast permanent molds. The lenses materials should be ready for limited production in the next month, the trim will be held up until I can find materials-I am going to keep looking for stainless, but I am going to explore AL and other alternatives, when the tooling for those pieces comes together, and I have some production samples, I will start working on the seals, and send out a few sets for evaluation-if they come back acceptable, I will contact the members on the list for actual orders. Hopefully a couple in more months-that sounds like a long time, but so far I have about $8k (when the permanent lens molds are done)and more time than I will admit to in prototyping and several sets of inferior test materials. I will update at the milestones. WIll

IGTP! I'll post an update! Will

240 plastic is too old and thin for that unless you are really carefull-been there, done that-have cracks to prove it! Will

How can he offer "Satisfaction guaranteed." and still tag it "SOLD AS IS NO RETURNS"? Will

Here is an EASY to do and hard to see alternative. 1) Super Glue the pins into the heads of a set of rivets.The rivets are the only sacrifice in this mounting alternative 2) Cut the heads of the rivets off flush. 3) Clean the back of the head of the rivet, and the mounting location on the interior panel with alcohol or laquer thinner and allow to fully dry. 4)Use a daub of silicone adhesive to glue the head of the rivet to the appropriate place on the panel-the silicone can be removed easily and with no damage to the interior panel if you ever want to undo this mounting! 5) Go to Office Depot or the like and buy a roll of matched INDUSTRIAL VELCRO. 6) Find suitable mounting surfaces in the mounting location. 7) Clean both surfaces with denatured alcohol or Laquer Thinner, and allow it to dry fully. 8) Apply the velcro to each surface and let the adhesive set overnight with out placing the two panels together. 9) The next morning place your panels. When you are through, you will have an easily removeable interior panel that looks factory installed, and better than that, will not squeek no matter how big a bump you go over. Notes: Most of the panels are offset in several places to accomodate the rivets in the first place, and there are ample locations where the steel od an adjascent panel is exactly the right distance from the trim panel for using the velcro. I have been using this situation for several years in the hot Savannah sun, and have yet to have a panel (or a strip of velcro) come loose. Use just enough Velcro to do the job, and you will not risk damaging the panels when you go to remove them. I came up with this when evaluating insullation in the body panels. I have used it on both sides of the hatch, the dog legs, and the quarter window frames. I even had velcro strips added to the luggage straps to make them easier to deal with, and to get away from the corroded buckles. No one notices unless you point it out-which is what I am after. Will

There are several sellers running that game, post a marginal picture of a piece in poor to fair shape, coated with engine gloss to cover discoloration and small cracks, discribe it as "mint", "excellent", "as new", "Better than New" or may personal favorate, "9 to 9.5 out of 10". I bought a 240Z console at the end of last year. The sellers blurb was: "Hi, I have 3 zcars, and i was restoring my 72 for resale soon on ebay. I have this awsome center console i was going to put in it, however i have decided to keep the customized console in the car(custum painted and trimmed for fan switch relocation). This console is basically mint! not a crack or blemish anyplace...ashtray chrome is even like new. Only thing is that the actual ash trey could use a cleaning. All wire bundles are perfect and ready to go into your restoration project, or keep as a spare. I would give this console an easy 9 one a 1-10 scale, almost ready for a show car i'd say. Check my feed back and bid with confidence. I think the pics speak for them selves" WHen the console arrived, I detailed the "cracks and blemish"es that are in the console, 1) A 3/4" hole drilled on the passenger side(after looking again, it is just bearly visible in one of the pictures) 2) Chips all along the shifter hole(some are actually in the picture) 3) A perferation through the top surface from tightening one of the choke assembly screws too far(once again in the picture, but not clearly.) 4) Sanding marks on the ashtray chrome(not in the picture). 5) covered with engine coating to hide discolloration and further hairline cracks in the console-in the picture, but how can you tell untill you clean the sticky mess off! 6) A massive gob of goo and a steel plate under the choke mounting to reinforce all of the broken off cast in mounting locations. I sent the seller an email pointing out the disparity between a true 9 of 10 and this 5 of 10 that he had sent. I also pointed out that this was a restorable console, but that it was no where close TO "AN easy 9 one a 1-10 scale, almost ready for a show car". I detailed the things that would make a "9 of 10", and offered to send him a series of pictures of a NOS console so that he would know. That did not go over well. Shipping was heavily inflated as well. He did offer to refund my purchase, less inflated shipping. But that does not change the fact that the sentances he chose to describe the same piece he sent me were absolute lies. They were conscious misrepresentations of the physical state of the console-even if I chose the refund route he would end up being paid for his time and trouble, and the console would go to the next person who read and trusted the words and didn't look closely at the pictures. That is the mark of a con artist, not an uninformed newbie. Look at what one of our new members is doing to take care of misinformation on his part when selling a pair of floor mats-that is what happens with a true mistake. I kept the console because several of the defects were in the pictures the seller had included and he had the sentance, "I think the pics speak for them selves". Had I bothered to look more closely, they would have spoken to me that the seller was dishonest in his discription, but that a picture doesn't lie. Use everything provided by the seller to evaluate his statements and ask questions when the pictures and a statement are opposing. The seller was HWK60. He has had the audacity to reply to my feedback with this: Reply by hwk60: This is by far one of the nicest used but reconditioned consoles sold on ebay. Jan-15-05 07:38 No where in the ad did it mention reconditioned, everywhere in the ad it di mention how wonderful it is Will

The Ricer DVD would be a styrofoam screen, with a paper insert, and a dead home dvd player under the seat! Just enough to claim it didn't work because of a blown fuse you can't find! Kill the seals, Save The Whales! Will

I would sure like to see the insurance claim! WIll

I am not really interested in the video portion of a DVD player-I have a large screen laptop if I want to watch a movie on the go, but after following the industry gabfor the last 18 months, it looks to me that the DTS surrond sound that can (and is) encoded on the audio portion of a DVD is the "next big thing" in audio-more licenses being issued for it than anything else. Kind of like the transition from AM to FM, or 8track to cassette to CD. Availability usually follows, Static Professional gear, home gear, car gear. I just wanted to see if the density of encoding on a DVD brings a stronger propensity to skip, I mean a 240Z with Illuminas and urethane bushings certianly is not the most shock absorbing transport for a DVD player that is being put to use! Will P.S. Carl if you will take off that promotional hat that Target gave you at their grand opening, you might not be such easy pickins! :knockedou

What DVD player did you use, and how is it about skipping? Will