hls30.com

Ok, no matter how misguided, uninformed, and obtuse this guy is, at least he didn't use the words "rare" or "mint" in his blurb! Will

One note, after thinking and talking about it further, the evaporator unit was actually fitted between the end of the console and ahead of the tool bins-not really between the shock towers, but in the rear of the car. I won't say it couldn't have been aftermarket, But I will say if it was, the company that made it went to a great deal of trouble to hide that. Will PS, I agree about the artistic license nature of owner/importer claims.

Carl, you got my point exactly! Will

Just rich folk entertaining themselves! A piece for a glass managerie of another sort. Will

Not only a 280ZX, but a 2+2! Will

14 years of storage -and sitting, a body in "pretty good shape" with cancer spread in both rear fenders :disappoin , and gold wheels that don't photograph ! Oops, don't forget the disclaimer : "i assumes no responsibility for any repairs regardless of any oral statements or published descriptions of condtion." Translation-"I am a lyin' my arse off :devious: , and you will be stuck with this POS :devious: even if it isn't the one I pictured, and talked about-what I have for sale is a Revell model that has been stepped on, burnt with a torch, and has no engine or wheels-but I aint saying that :devious: ! Gimme $500 to find out-sucker :devious: ". I think the city will be making him move that one! Probably has a history of taffic and parking violations that will have to be paid as well. Too many cut and pastes from other auctions, no real feedback-call the police! Will

FYI! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4506444414&category=34204 Will

How many people would be interested enough in one to: 1) know the legitimate difference between a completely factory version and a replica made completely with with factory parts.(can decode a vin in their head) 2) shun a well done non-factory restoration(to factory specs-but not for the car that was restored). 3) forget the fact that a factory car is an assembledge of factory parts, just like a car that is assembled with factory parts that were not specific to its vin-the parts didn't know the difference-nor did the workers before the pieces were put together. 4) think that two cars that are identical except for a vin number would be less than identical in performance, style, or available enjoyment. 5) think that a vin number matching the trim level of a car somehow gives a car magic that a car that looks identical would not have. 6) think that for more than 200k Somebody couldn't build a realy fine replica, and restamp a serial number and still have less than 40K in the car. Questions for us: 1)How many pictures of vin numbers are in your gallery relative to pictures of really nice Zs?? 2)How many cars hows have you gone to where you have recorded and researched a vin number? 3)Upon finding a beautiful Z parked at the curb, do you even look for a VIN? 4)Why do we even consider anything else when hunting down a car? 5)Would you rather drive a '72 dressed as a beautiful '70 to the MSA show or push #27? I am not saying I would not pay more for a matching and low serial # car. I am just pondering how much more. Will

I figured as well as you made it, and as much as part of it looks like a spindlepin-it just had to be... :laugh: Will

Ok, first the 100% correct answer, I know no body will be able to dissagree with it, and that makes it correct. Drum roll please.... It is exactly what you say it is, and does exactly what you say it does-tell me I am wrong! Now as to what it looks like; It looks like an outer pivot for the rear suspension, and a replacement for the inner pivot on the front suspension, to remove the use of any bushings, add the ability to change castor, camber and front to rear wheel adjustment for a true and constant dialing in of the suspension and allow a true alignment on all four wheels as a system instead of just individual components. Will

I think your only sources will be the local upholstery shop, and/or your labor, a fabric store, and a vinyl dye mixed to match at an auto paint store. Not too many companies making updated, color coordinated, interiors for 30 odd year old cars! If you do the work, pick the materials for the seats and have them recovered($700-$900-vinyl with cloth inserts), get 5 yards(included in the upholstery price) of matching material(for the tunnel, door panels, head liner, windshield trim, roof sills, hatch trim panel, inner rockers, kick panels, emergency brake boot, shifter boot, tool bag), and 5 yards of matching carpet for the floors and matching floor mats, once you have cut the carpet to fit, take it back to the upholstery shop, and have them bind or serge the exposed edges, and make the boots for you. Cut a 6 inch square of the vinyl and take it to the auto paint store, and have them mix a quart($30) of matching vinyl dye for the hard plastic trim(tail light panel. rear interior pieces, strut tower upholstery, strut caps, etc) Also get a quart of 3M weldwood contact adhesive, and several cheep throw away brushes($15.00). For less than $1000 you can have a great looking updated interior if you are willing to spend some time and energy on it in addition to the money. Will

Sounds like a $1000 to $1500 car-too many things need work now to be a $3k car, "Bumpers need to be straightened, turn sigs, tach and fuel gauges don't work, has engine oil leaks and is missing rear trim panels and misc interior stuff." For 3k, the electrics should be working(maybe not the clock)and the interior should be complete. Remember, what some one wants for a car they don't is only the same as what they will take for a short time-unless the car is a jewel-and I don't mean in the rough! I would also check the oil-probably been replaced with a thicker grade to slow the leak, but that would also help compression, and limit oil burning. Run you finger inside the tail pipe, goo means oil burner, also shine a flash light into the oil filler, see what the journals look like-clean or fuzzy? Depending on how much you will do your self, and your standards, you will probably ad between 4k and 6K to the car-there is always something lurking under old paint, and old leaky gaskets! Will

Re-check your fuses! One of them is more than likely the culprit-you have narrowed to one circuit. Will

HS30-H, Thanks for the info and the scans! The shop owner said he remembers looking at the owners manual, and that it showed the controls and the evaporator as described(evap-between the shock towers), and suggested that getting a hold of a JDM owners manual would be the best way of verifying what was used there. The car in question was bought by a Captian in the Army, supposably picked up from the factory, and imported at the end of his tour. The car was a JDM model-I remember every label was in Japanese-pretty cool to look at. Thanks again for your input! Will

OOps, I just PM'd you, thinking you weren't going until DEC! Will

I did contact the producers of the show to see about getting raw footage, or directors cuts of the interviews, but they (huge suprise) have chosen to completely ignore my request-I am considering making a pest of myself to atleast get an answer, but maybe someone who was actually part of the inteviews could have better luck with a favor from these guys quicker than the application of a targetted nusiance... Will

300ZX vented rotors were cheepest from RockAuto to-which if you need anything from them, the discount I posted in another thread is good until November 30-use it or lose it! Anything off is better than nothing off! Will

I found a right hand drive manual on ebay Australia, but no response from the seller on whether or not it has the info I am looking for(RHD but not JDM). I am going to bid on it http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4503565415&fromMakeTrack=true anyway for the club. Will

Carl, I have not taken a picture, but I do have them, and I do have a camera-oops-you got me (Deer in headlights) Ok, I get the message... I will make the Photo-op happen! Of course they are used, and the lines were bent off, but they are complete clean, and in working order!! I will even post a picture of them. Will

Hey Carl, is what you are teying to say "The twins need work and the show knows it" Will

www.car-parts.com I bought a set for vented rotors $30! Rotors came from RockAuto! Will

ChrisA- It didn't smell like a typo ! Will

Somebody "cleaning their clock" ought to post a really good scan of the face of that jewel! Will

ChrisA, I was upset :mad: 'till you told me you got it!, Now I am just sorry I am not you :eek: :sleepy: ! That ok, My boy just gave me something fart more entertaining! Will

Here is one I don't think we have covered before. In my long term memory I remeber seeing a JDM ac unit in a 240Z. The evaporator unit was actually behind and between the seats, giving the driver and the passenger a frozen elbow. The compressor went where the air pump is on our version-which were the reasons all US a/cs were aftermarket. Does anyone happen to have a picture of the unit, its' controls? I am looking for drawings or photographs, a copy or scan of the Japanese FSM or Owners Manual with those details is exactly what I am hunting for-Kats, 26th, Carl, Mike, anyone, anyone, anyone at all? Verbal translation is not important to me, just the images! Will