hls30.com

Are you sure you don't have an earlier dash... I had the same problem several years ago-endedup ordering the early cover-still have the late cover I ordered originally...Nissan used parts they had as they located them, between that and POs, you never can tell what you may have without checking. Will

Zs run best with NGK Bpr6ESII plugs, you can spend youe money on what ever your want, but those are what you will come back to-upgrade your wires to NGK or Magnecore instead. Search the archives...its all there.

The specification is mid way between tight and stripped. I think the technical instruction in the Technical Service Bulletin reads: "You must tighten until it doesn't begin to leak leak, and stop before it does." I have never seen torque specification for the valve cover bolts.

You got your manly pass in post 277! That clip always makes me bust out laughing! And to think "panty waste" married Phoebe Cates... http://youtu.be/PqMIfeTc-CM

Uh, No. I know why they put them in there, for overly challenged people-to make it easier for the engine to look cared about, and for those mechanically challenged(but not financially challenged) to be safer and feel better about popping the hood-a big sheet of logo'd plastic is certainly less intimidating than the engine one hides-do you get that-the cover hides the engine......so much going on under there to be confused about...oh my it gets hot too! It is a good thing to hide all of that and feel better that it looks so neat and tidy-ooohw! I am just glad some engineer in some engine compartment meeting somewhere had a pair and channeled Mr. K and told that freaking stylist" if you have to put something like that on there it can't be the pink/purple tray from your favorite Barbie Tea Set-and so it was disguised... I think that stylist got carried away-as some of you are... like Kevin Klien in In and Out This is for your own good guys...http://youtu.be/Si3WXZtJ5GY Man up and Stop acting like you had to move that way to get to the toilet. I'll run out and buy an Arielle Atom and be done with it...

I give your car more credit than that-I see that cosmetic cover under the hood as being beneath the quality and promise of your car...it is odd to me that you see it as a part of what she is...must be the feelings/associations/connotation you hold for the word painted on it and not what it actually contributes...

Any cover that has no other purpose that to hide what is under it should not be there-even when used as a bilboard for a bright red heart! My Z32 has a comparatively small cover over the valley of the intake, it is purely cosmetic, and still there-I even painted it, but when I have time to figure out how to de-clutter that COVERED area it will be gone-that area is spotlessly clean-I take off the cover when I detail the engine. I still think a purely cosmetic cover HAS NO PLACE under the hood of a sports car though I do not see a reason not to make a cover with any other purpose more cosmetically pleasing.

Tomohawk, Road and Track, Car and Driver, Brooklands books and a couple of other companies created Model specific collections of articles, I have several, when I get some time later on I will have a peak for you.

Don't you mean Datsun Blue...It isn't a ford after all

You bring up a very valid point, most modern engines-even those in the 350Z and 370Z are presented in the engine bay with all of the "messy wires " and "hardware" covered with an otherwise useless piece of plastic... I have seen S30s with this kind of "cover under the hood" treatment to keep from actually having to detail an engine.. There is a huge difference in the time needed to properly clean a normal S30 engine bay and the time needed to take out a cover, wipe the core support, fenders and firewall and install a new cover. To me these covers are an example of the Fernando school of automotive design-...simply cover it up what lansdsape doesn't work aesthetically-rather than actually design the issues out it out... better to look well done than to actually be well done. Does any serious sports car really need engine bay stylist? I am beginning to channel Professor Turgeson(Back to School) on this...

Original Drivers side can be had for around $90 shipped any day of the week, real Talbot mirror go for between $200 and $400 a side depending on what model, a good quality Reproduction goes for between $50 (GT400)and $100 (GT700)a side-I have the GT400 for my 250GTO rebody. I think Choosing Side mirrors should be based on the look you want in your car-OEM always looks great on a mostly original car-so do may all chrome mirrors, baby turbos ($20-$30 each) look good on a car with updated wheels and aero bolt ons.

There was one in the inside of the glove box door on my '76. and I believe there was a sliver metallic one with black print on all 240Zs-again on the inside of the glovebox door...

So you need just the part that attaches to the door, not the part that holds the mirror...if that is the case, I may have that part-but it may take me some time to find it...three buildings full of parts and a big enclosed trailer too.

Sorry for your trouble! Post a picture of your mirror as it is so we can see exactly what you need-I have a broken mirror that I saved because one of the two parts is unscathed... Will

I like similar if not original finishes-polished carbs, intake, and valve cover do look better that a dirty set, but then having them clean, matching, and uniformly media blasted looks good to. Painted carbs and heads-yuk unless preped correctly and painted carefully. I don't really care for too much color under the hood-I have gone so far as to paint colored plug wires to get them black...metallic silver and black-enev in several shades looks good to me.

QUOTE=Casey_z;407236]I used to wear pants with that pattern:( What was I thinking I don't know, but I think I'd have kept that to myself if I resembled that remark![

I go to bed and what surprise do I get to step past this morning... Play nice and stay on topic! Most members know to turn to TNT for Drama, they don't look for or want it in our threads-and as the battle field above shows neither do our Mods or Site Owner. What do you guys think about alternative finishing on OEM Parts as modifications ? What about replacing perfectly good oem parts with Billet Aluminum?

Even your car has a Z flavor, it is just overshadowed by something decidedly not Z. Think of it like a Deep Fryed Ice cream sandwich, you can still taste the Ice cream sandwich, but it more of an aftertaste than the dominant flavor.

Guys, don't make me get grumpy...post what you think the thread is for, if you are wrong, as the Original Poster and the Moderator, I will let you know by "being Polite until it is time not to be polite" Will I don't mind related deviation, it can bring more to a thread than it had, but keep the egos in check to the point of keeping this a polite exchange of ideas and leave the policing and refocussing of content to me.

The Lime Green Z...much of what was done still augments the original style of the car-which I like-where that deviates is where it looses me. If that was my version of perfection it would be what was in my garage-that does not mean I don't like it, don't think it is beautiful, or don't respect the effort that went in to building it-I do on all accounts! It simply means I don't like it enough to have built it. It looks well thought out and executed, it is just not as I would have built it. I have already said my ideal is to make upgrades blend into the car to the point they are completely overlooked until they are actually put to use.

With limited fabrication skills, buying a good running rust bucket would be the easiest-in terms of following what someone else has fully documented documented, and having everything you need before you start. . You should be able to find a good running 280Zx Turbo rust bucket for less than $!000, the last one I bought I paid $425 for, it ran like a top, but I had to travel 8hrs to get it...I drove about 6hrs to get the BAE turbo kit. A used but fully functioning kit should run about $500-1000-depending on what has been done to bring it back to life, but just like a swap will need cleaning and detailing, but cleaned and detailed suitably, it will be something with more "cool" because of its rarity-how many L28Ets have you seen vs Headers and intake tubing with incorporated into the casting...

One of the older threads... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread22581.html

There actually are several kits that were available lack in the day, D!ck Barbour, Crown, BAE and one or two more... Details on some of them( are even in the archives here, I posted the catalog pages from Bick Barbour, and pictures one from BAE that Zbane and I pulled in North Carolina several years ago,that I actually had the install Instructions for it in a bunch of literature that I was given...I'll post some pictures of the pieces later today, the kit came with a cast Aluminum intake tube, a cast iron Exhaust manifold(both with "BAE" as part of the casting, a good size turbo, a Weber big throat, an Accusump, and the associated tubing. At one point I was going to clean it all up and have one of the last remaining period turbo cars...In years of shows I have never seen one at one-plenty of L28ET swaps, but never an aftermarket kit on an original engine. Does make for an interesting setup! These kits do cross ebay every once in a while.