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Sorry, didn't mean to introduce you to a bludger using tools on a filmed bucks night to come a guster with a car and london to a brick mean to make a bingle, and then think it is sick! Oh well, to each his own-just don't let them think to try to cut up a Z! Will

Turn the plastic piece that fits into the circly thing(push the circly thig down, put the part in it, and snap the short part of the "L"(looks like a bullet connector into the white plastic piece that is stuck into the door handle! If my attempt to use your words didn't work, or you are missing some plastic pieces you don't know about, I will try to find a scan of the door mechanism to post. Will

Monster Garage: A TV show that Must 1)Find some piece of complete and useable and or easily restorable vehicle, 2)Hack it to pieces 3)Break all glass, all plastic, cut all sheet metal-destroying all useable parts that will not be "modified". 4)Use only the smallest portion of the original vehicle(a 2 foot section of military Jeep frame on the now running show is all that was used from a complete and running vehicle). 5)Give the entire project a small budget put to keep it doable by "anybody". 6)Complete the project only with the use of obscenely expensive sponsor-donated stuff to make sure no "anybody" can do it. 7)Pat the "Builders" on the back for destroying a restorable vehicle that someone was desperately hunting for to put back to its glory days 8)After the "build" is complete and run, blow the crap out of it with major explosives or a suitable substitute to be sure that even the smallest part of it is unuseable. Did I mention the "Budget"? Sort of like a demolition Derby but with tools and explosives. Will

"Discounting heat, any other ideas?" You didn't happen to move the cartridges with the springs. did you... You gotta quit using recycled cartridges! I usually get about 7 years out of a set of cartridges-depending on tire inflation(higher pressure-shorter cartridge life), and side wall height (shorter sidewalls, more work for the shock). Will

A mighty big gas-guzzling , road and parking space hogging , rock climbing , mud throwing , G.T.F.O.O.T.W :stupid: . "WOW" at that! Will

It may be a while, the '72 (the car I bought it for) is on a rotisserie; but, My previous '73 is still in town, and its new owner has been after me to take it out for the weekend, tune it up, and blow the carbon out of it (that REALLY breaks my heart!). I will put the harness on it over the weekend, and take some before and after VOM tests and pictures (maybe a video) to post! If the difference is a big as I expect, I will let him buy that harness, and get another from you! Will

I'll get some pictures of the differeent struts tomorrow and post them to make the differences more clear. Will

Have you put some oil or Transmission fluid in the tube with the shock-heat kills them, and the oil allows the heat to permeate the strut housing and dissapate, with only air in the tube, you have an insulating rather than a dissapating situation. Will

I have a recently removed set of struts from a mfr date 6/77 280Z just sitting in my garage, wanna trade for his? I need another set of 72 pieces. PM me if you are interested. If your buddy wants more proof of the folly of his ways, I would be happy to post a photo of a set of '72 struts next to a set from the '78 so he can figure out his info is wrong and his anger misplaced. Will

What about using an AOD from a 84 maxima and adding a shift kit? Will

It sounds like you are on the right path. If it is only affecting primary ignition and the fuel pump, that really only calls for one circuit. A worsening connection somewhere early in the power grid would explain most of it. The Dizzy is the distribiutor. If you want a hand, and the Baby doesn't come tomorrow, give a call. Will

I received my harness today-if I were to build one, this would be it. Dave has everything done right, dielectric grease to seal the plugs, soldered connections, shrink wrap, convoluted tubing, high quality wire, clear and illustrated instructions! This is another member piece as well done as MikeWs glove box! Dave, Thanks for a great addition to my 240Z! Will

I wasn't putting it down, I have a 2003 Dodge 1500 Quadcab for hauling stuff http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=10040&sort=1&cat=500&page=3 and people. I found out that I can't park it conveniently-I was just pointing out that a Hummer is bigger, and therefor has more of the same problem-in the city! Throwing some mud and climbing rocks is a different story-but you can't do those on a city street!

The rust on my floors was a little bit worse than yours-3 or 4 quarter sized holes on the floors, I could have cut it out and welded in patches, but I chose to replace the floors and the seat mounts. I think Enrique is right that the POR15 repair will do the job quickly and efficiently, but I want to know my car is as structurally sound as when it was new when my foot gets heavy and my tires get hot! I used Zedd Findings as well-excellent quallity, great price! Tig, Mig and Oxy-acet, my car is getting all three! Will

I have only found those original mats in cars, I have never found new ones. Occassionally used ones turn up on ebay. Will

Ahem! Hummers are always good! (Blush!) The kind you are looking for are not what I would want, in the city they are too freaking hard to park and turn around, Almost exactly the opposite of a Z! WIll

I am in the same quandry, but I have a little more direction. I am getting a set of coilovers, and modifying a set of 240 struts for them, then I will be setting up another set of 240 struts with relocated spring perches. that way I can figure out the appropriate ride height easily, and still have what looks like a stock suspension. I plan on using Tokico Illuminas, and started a thread a couple of weeks ago about it. Here is a link to the thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14838&highlight=sectioning+front+struts . Will PS-Don't say "Kidney Killer :stupid: "!

No, I ment voltage-well actually voltage drop. 1/2 a volt drop is usually the beginning of a problem, I would still fix that problem, but if you have that, you probably have more, and the largest voltage drop is the one to fix first. If you have a 2&1/2 ohm problem across a ground, you are probably going to have smoke or something that doesn't work at all help you find the problem! An approximately 5amp difference (approximately 12v/2.5ohms) across a ground is not a good thing! Will

Measuring the voltage drop across them is a quick way with a VOM. Measure from the negative terminal of the battery to the block, then to the chassis, then from the chassis to the block, then from the chassis to what ever connection you want to check. anything more than 0 means there is something happening, anything more than .5v means you should take care of the connection before it causes you grief! Follow the FSM diagram and measure across the ground before and after switches, plugs, and the driven item. WIll

what is the history of the car-sat for 3 years just started up, been running fine and pow, here is the problem, I don't know, she just follwed me home... If we know a little more about her, we can probably do a little better in the suggestion department. One thing to check, get a metal or hard wood rod(even a good sized screwdriver will do) and place one end on the injector bodies one by one and listen to them(put your ear firmly against the opposite end of your probe) you should be able to hear the enjector cycling on and off. You should be able to determine whether they are sticking open, or being driven open. Thoroughly clean your plugs and run her again, and see what you get. Will

rust, PO. Rust, PO. Aww hell both can be worse than Kidney stones! You might try taking a spare (or hacked-up) light bulb harness and socket(Sidemarkers work very well as they sit) to use as a test light. Sometimes a VOM will show 11-14v when there is no load on a circuit, but when a load is present the voltage drops drasticly! To duplicate the same function as a test light you must also measure (and evaluate) the resistance in a circuit as well as the voltage. Will

I knew there was a parallel thread, I just couldn't find it. Just goes to show that the funny thing about that little white spec on the top of chicken poo, is it's chicken poo too-even with the reference to Square Deal! Will

It sounds good but it sounds more bad. More investigation-calls to his Commanding Officer-or branch of the military ,Square Trade, Lufthansa Air Cargo, Customs(-BIG RED FLAG-"The only way he could arrange for there to be no duties due is to pay them, or keep the car in his name and sell it to you once sucessfully imported-probably not something he can do while in another country). I would say you are getting ready to lose $6500. Offer to fly in and accompany the car personally, if he objects, end it there. Verify everything from several verifiable sources. Will

Carl is right on. When you find an OEM "passenger side mirror" advertized it is always a drivers side that has been reversed-no part# in the fiche! Here are the part # and listed prices for the door handles-new catalogs are due, so the prices may have changed VB lh door handle 59-720 $24.99 VB rh door handle 59-721 $24.99 VB side mirror not listed MSA side mirror 30-8140 $85.31 MSA lh door handle 30-2241 $44.23 MSA rh door handle 30-2242 $44.23 The last side mirror I bought came from "The Datsun Guy" on EBay seems like it was about $50 new. I am going up to the farm in a couple of days to store the 2+2 I bought recently. I have a 70 parts car(bad rusty)with what was a complete interior, if you need other parts, let me know and I will see what it has, and what shape it is in. Will