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hls30.com

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Everything posted by hls30.com

  1. Wow! Carl, is that a JDM bumper, or a CDM (Carls Domestic Market )? Did you "modify " it yourself? Will P.S. if there is a problem finding the glass, reasonable in CA, I will see what i can find.
  2. Uh, I think Carl needs a hood worse, On the window, if Carl is being difficult, check car-parts.com They had several listed in Ca. but I am not familiar enough with the local geography to know how close they are to you. Will
  3. My 2400 valve cover is levitating and spinning end over end...faster, faster, there is blood-no wait, it's just motor oil. The 70-75 door glass assemblies are still interchangeable, and the 77 and 78s are not in the group! Will
  4. The glass assembly is the same 70-75, but in 77,78 the metal frame at the bottom is different. I think the glass is actually still the same, but to be sure I would take the old frame to the yard and swap them there. Will
  5. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Technical Articles
    You guys have a place reserved in heaven for this thread-if only it had saved me from making a mushroom out of the treaded end of a spindle pin-I will post a picture of what happens when frustration takes over and follows the "get a bigger hammer" routine tomorrow! Will
  6. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Aftermarket
    You got my attention! Pictures would be nice! Will
  7. hls30.com commented on hls30.com's comment on a gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
  8. hls30.com commented on billcapp's comment on a gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
  9. hls30.com commented on hls30.com's comment on a gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
  10. hls30.com posted a gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
  11. 10 minutes with some Marine Clean, warm water, and a brush. 30 minutes with a roll of tape, a good home media blaster, and 30lbs of crushed walnut shells. 5 minutes wiping down with a pint of laquer thinner and 3 clean rags. 15 minutes with a small bottle of GlistenPC and a good paint brush. Will
  12. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Suspension & Steering
    I followed matrias advice before he gave it, it is good! Less than $150 shipped! Several sellers putting them on ebay-shop it for the lowest total price. There are a couple of threads here covering installation-I did not read their advice before trying to remove the old bushings on my own and I should have. BambiKiller and Beandip have all of the 411 and have put it in the archives. There is a video of an installation available for sale from ZTherapy. There is also a very special tool you should buy, beg to borrow, or steal before you beat and heat the crap out of a doohickey called a spindle pin, and find it still won't budge! Will
  13. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Spray the metal ready on a papertowel. and it will stick like-well, a spitwad. Occasionally take it loose to agitate the surface with a wire brush, replace the paper towel, and redampen it. You will find this works suprisingly well! Will
  14. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Good point Gary, that hadn't thumped my noggin! Check it out Bill, before you get too much work done and too many parts moved! Will
  15. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Bill, it could be your car was sold to the PO with "a do not resuscitate title-parts only", and he does not want you to find out. I would probably do a little more investigation even to the point of calling the DMV, so that you don't get a nasty kick in the gut when you go to get a tag. Will
  16. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    I'm in Ga, two hours from you, if you can't get Classic(phone # Zrush left) to help at a reasonable price, we could always do a paper dance-you "convey" the title to me, I get the title corrected and reissued,and sell the title back to you for the cost of getting the state to fix the mistake they made in the first place! At least you have options, GA flat refuses to allow me to get a title for my '72-not even any hoops they can tell me to jump through. Will
  17. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Australia & NZ
    Welcome to the club! I am on the wrong side of the pond to give advice on buying a Z in your territory, but there are several members with blood worth bottling in your area to keep you from buying a bondi cigar! I'm sure you'll meet some good cobbers, and find a car that will leave you grinning like a shot fox! Again, Welcome to the club! Will
  18. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    As with most things, I would read all of these instructions three times out loud (as if you are explaing to your frustrated best friend what he just did wrong so as not to wizz him off further-but to keep him from continuing the same mistake) at three different times of the day before you do this, and again just before doing this- to make sure the jello sets! A smathering of elbow grease applied with a constant and generous flow of water, and a block coveredwith 600 grit, followed by 800 grit, followed by 1200 grit to get to the scratched surface, then 1600 over the whole surface, and then prep it normally and shoot it. When the new clear is completely dry hit the whole pannel with water and 1600-2000 grit and buff it out with the appropriate compound-ask where you bought the paint. You will not be able to see the repair-if it didn't hit the paint-and the job will look like the prettiest mirror you have ever seen! You will probably want to do the last sanding-and buffing to the whole car after you see that panel! Don't be shy with the water while sanding, if your feet aren't pruned after 5 minutes, you had better be weating golashes! Make sure you use a quality block for sanding, and do not rub hard, you do not want the sheet metal to flex under the pressure of your sanding. Go slow and take your time. You control the results you get with your patience and your care. All you are doing is polishing the clear, applying more, and polishing again! Will PS, you know it now, but unless you are going to wipe it all off, and start over, never try to fix paint while it is wet!
  19. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Aftermarket
    240zdragon72, I am in the midst of the same build-straightening out the chassis first. I am doing some unusual things in terms of engine management, and intercooling-pm me if you want to swap notes, ideas, parts... Will AV240Z You probably know this, and were trying to make a quick blurb to get a sale, but others don't, so here it is. An intercooler does not flow or make horsepower, it allows you to tune an engine management system to make more horsepower by cooling the intake air of a compressed air intake system. An intercooler flows, and hopefully cools, intake air. Making the air more dense through compression by a turbocharger adds heat. Making the air even more dense by cooling it, means more can get into a cylinder. More air in a cylinder means you must add more gas, in the right ratio. More gas and more air, in the right ratio, means more horsepower. Once you have more cool dense air and gas in a cylinder, the timing of the spark can be adjusted, hopefully to make more horsepower. The variables of intake temperature, fuel delivery, air delivery, and ignition timing all have an optimum range. An intercooler allows you to have some control over the one of the two variables that a normally aspirated car does not-intake temperature. Balancing all four variables properly in a healthy engine will result in operation somewhere between maximum fuel efficiency and maximum horse power-depending on your tuning. Two more important questions to answer are: 1)What is the internal pressure drop across meaningful flow rates through the intercooler (usually expressed as a curve graph) Do the math to change cfm to rpm-it sounds worse thanit is-and make sure that the sweet spot of your turbo is within the efficient portion of the graph. If it isn't the intercooler in question is not your best choice. 2)What is its BTU dump in through time and volume of air both through and across the ic(usually 2 graphs superimposed on each other-where the two curves cross is the upper limit of efficiency-check the numbers from the answer to the first question, and the cfm of your radiator fan(if you know it), and make sure they fit) Most Manufacturers don't and won't publish either of these because their sales people don't want us to know what their engineers know. Will
  20. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Aftermarket
    I gave some options earlier, here are what they have been going for on Ebay. NPR $225-325 Starion/Conquest $50-150 Power Stroke $250 Audi $40-80 Probe $50-90 Volvo $50-70 Mitsubishi 1st gen $35-50 Will
  21. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    I would try color sanding both the panel and the door, go back ony as far as you have to. Clear is easy to work with, and easy to fix. if the problems didn't make it to the color coat, just redo the clear. No point in priming again, unless you just would feel better doing it. Will
  22. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    The fenders are the same! I have been interchanging them for years... Will
  23. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Bill, Just pullin' your leg, The only bad thing I have to say about you involved a dope who told you he would get pictures of some wheels a week or so ago! Will
  24. Ed, Your car is going to follow you everywhere! Wiill
  25. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Hey Bill, All of that stuff-well, most of that stuff-I have said about you, I take it back, most of it! :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: Will

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