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Zedd findings! Several threads about this in the search, but here is a link to save you some time! http://www.datsunzparts.com/Summary.htm Good stuff, you will be impressed! Will

You are bad, very bad.......

Hey Bill, did you get the engine number? If it was original and the plate is still on the inside of the passenger side of the engine compartment, that might go a long way in catching the rapscallions that took it-btw-how do es a person miss an engine getting pulled? Will PS-still waiting for the ducky ducky story from that sale!

I have one I removed the staples from as well, some of the pieces fell apart, but fortunately they were parts that had been paired(two of each piece was used) so there is still enough to have it right. I was going to cut them out of some sheet ABS I have for vacuum forming(really close in thickness). and screw them together. MikeW, if you make them out of the heavy paper, you might saturate them with resin, or POR15 to make them less likely to crumble through time. I would make sure they can still be taken apart to facilitate installation and removal. Will

OK, you dirty rat, Look here, see, this is the way we're gonna play this, see! The Z police are on the sceene! The car has promise, but you have not given enough detail for anybody who is familiar with a Zs shortcomings to jump in with some green! You have included just enough detail to bring out the sarcastic and suspicious nature of the "Z Police" We are of the opinion that what you didn't photograph, you didn't want us to see-and what reason could you have? Prove us wrong, send clear and well lit pictures of the floors from below and under the carpet, give us a good clear shot of the battery tray area, show us the inside of the rockers! Show us what we can only suspect to be in poor shape! We want to believe, but the God of rust has taught us that the streets will flow with rusty water from the car we didn't thoroughly checkout. Prove your car worthy of the big bucks you want! We need to be sure you're not all sixes and sevens! Will

Jack it up unfer the frontcross member(from the bottom, ahead of the oil pan, after the radiator support-the front suspension is located by it!) If my explanation isn't clear, let me know, and I will post a picture-don't get under the car with out stands-cinderblocks do not count!!!! Will

I am doing the same sort of thing, with a twist. Any nodification I do will have to be done to be easliy restorable later. I want to be able to put my car back to original later on. Will

SHow quality means that the piece will have all of the little defects repaired, that will give the the piece a like new finish. Chrome plating means that the piece will be properly cleaned, but no other attention will be given, just plated. Kind of like the difference between Earl Shieb(?) and a good paint job. Earl will put a coat of paint on a car, but no bodywork will be done. A good paintjob will take care of the defects that will show through the paint before the paint is put on. \ Will

I think you may offend some of the members with your use of the word "restoration"-it means to but back as original. Mounting different seats would definitely not be restoration! What you want to do is modification-before every body gets their panties in a bunch, the only person who has to be happy with your car is you! Go for it, and post pictures! Will

Repairing the old is not terribly difficult, but the old a/c is not terribly effective either! I have had 11 240Zs, all had A/C, and only one system was up to the task of cooling the car to my expectation(combatting coastal Georgia heat and humidity). I am currently resurrecting a '72, and working on a system with all new technology that is no more obtrusive than the old dealer installed units, and works based entirely on the heater panel controls with no new holes-I want it to look factory, but work like the AC in my 2003 S80-able to get and keep the car uncomfortably cold on the hottest day in direct sunlight-without overheating the engine. As I get there, I will detail the system and installation. Will

The answers that are here pretty well cover it. I have used POR15 under bodywork and paint. For presentation PAINT to be successful you must use tiecoat primer, followed by a primer/sealer/surfacer, and then the color coat. To use filler, use a thin layer of POR15, and let it get a thick skin on it, and apply the filler to it-yes, before the POR15 is completely hardened! Do not sand it until the POR15 is completely hardened! It is easier to spot apply POR15 to areas that have had rust that are going to be painted, than to the entire car. POR15 has a tendancy(at least in high humidity) to retain brush strokes, and for the finished paint to look right , the resultant striations must be properly filled. Will

DashRestorations has a special paint mixed up. It is supposed to become one with the painted surface, and not remain a seporatable coating, They are sending me some with my dash to make sure all of the black interior parts in the car match-if your other plans don't hold water, you might give them a call and see if they will sell you a batch! Will

I think Carl is right on the money! I even went in and tried to edit the link to CAIG for the DeOxit, and it still didne work. Cut and past the link into your address lin and lose at the front and the end, and the address will work. Will

Carl, TomoHawk, I just bought three cans on ebay for less than what I could have bought two of them direct for! The MFR also sells the stuff(in several varieties and forms) direct http://shopping.netledger.com/caigstore I am just getting ready to start on the harness, I have been cleaning up my rented worksopace, and once I get the car out there and upside down-early next week-I will begin on the harness! FYI After unwraping the harness and cleaning the insulation, I will clean the crimped connections of corrosion with DeOxit, wash away the protective coating it leaves with laquer thinner, hit the connections with some flux, silver solder and heat, wash them again with thinner, and have them ready to rewrap and reinstall! I am going to try tp keep the original fusebox in much the same way-if that does not cure its woes, I will replace it with thed blade type I have prepaired. Will

I have had 11 bumpers replated at different locations throughout the country, I have paid from $225 to $700 for a "Showroom tripple chrome finish" every single one has rusted within 6 months. The problem HAS ALWAYS BEEN the Nickle plating is not thick enough. A tripple chrome plating is actually a thick plate of copper to fill in scatches and tiny dents, sanding and buffing to make a uniform finish, a medium coat of nickle to seal the copper from oxidizing(look at the chrome interior pieces-they are exuding a green tint becaouse they were not nickle plated at all, and the copper is corroding under the chrome), the nickle plating is supposed to be thick enough to not be porous. Then a thin(and porous) chrome plate. It does not take very much to make a chrome plating look good out of the vat, the proof is in the lasting. If it does not last, the nickle was not done well, or the piece was not properly cleaned between steps. I have used all the reccommended places I could find, and none would stand behind their work! I chose to buy a set of NOS bumpers and completely coat them with clear (Glisten PC)from POR15. The bumpers are completely sealed, and no more oxidation can take place. Will

Just use the DeOxit! Filing the connections will be a temporary fix that will usually make the problem come back-but faster. DeOxit removes and neutralizes the corrosion, and leaves a coating to keep it from comming back! Will

I have bought several low to medium mileage turbo engines. I have paid from $271 for a complete car to 251 for just the engine with both manifolds, injectors, distributor, but no Alt, Starter, or turbo-check car-parts.com . Will

Is that a V8 sponsored by Pepto Bismall! Will

"The door handles are interchangable from side to side on the 70-78 Z cars." That also means that, depending on where it broke, you could switch sides!:classic: Will

I got a set from Charlie last week! A good decision makes sense when you make it, and every time is crosses your mind thereafter. Buying the replacement floors was a good decision! Will

If it will go in a 240Z, in will go in a 280ZX!, Us the JTR kit, or check out HybridZ.org , I am sure at least a handfull of guys over there have done it! Will

Something tells me that the seller does know about Charlie, but that Charley doesn't know about ebay, or inexpensive advertising!! Will

Sorry, I read something you didn't write, and could not delete the post! Will