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I pulled a couple of worn shifter knobs at the wrecking yard to get the inserts. They fit right, they were designed for the purpose, and I got to see how they were fastened-don't want a new turning to crack from having too small of a fitting hole. Reverse engineering is cheeper than trial and error! Will

POR 15 has a companion product called MetalReady which is a Phosphoric acid based treatment. It etches the new metal in preparation for using POR 15. POR 15 is not UV stable, and even under a car will fade. If you use POR15 for that area, I would coat it with another POR 15 companion, Hardnose paint to keep the color right. Alternatively, use MetalReady, then get a Urethane Truck Bedliner Kit, and treat the underside of the floors with it-be very aware of the thickness when you are close to mounting locations-you don't want to introduce missalignment when you bolt the suspension back in! The bedliner will also add mass to the floor panels and allow them to absorb a good bit of road noise! Will

Normally, you can replace the headlight bulbs from the top front of the car-the retainer rings are loosened with a #1 phillips screwdriver (don't take the screws out-just loosen them a few turns), then the ring is rotated a few degrees and comes out, allowing the bulb to follow it. This works, but be vewwy careful of your paint! Will

Unless you just happen to step into it, $500 will get you a car you will absolutely have to work on...and on, and on, and on.... A decent and driveable Z with a little cancer, and a few more aggravating than needed repairs, usually starts at about $1,500. It is a whole lot more fun to work on a car that can take a spirited drive around the block when frustration sets in. Will It isn't too hard to find a running sacrifice to the rust God for that $500, but unless you are a decent metal fabricator with free materials, a new set of floors and frame rails will run about $450 before installation, and then you have to hope the rust has not invaded other areas that you can't see! Good luck though-occasionally we all find a diamond in the rough, more often, it is just the rough we find. Will

Didn't we all learn that you don't upgrade a car as a monetary investment, but as an enjoyment investment-the owner of this car missed that class. I am very impressed by the amount of work, but It just isn't even close to what I would have done... The owner must not have gotten enough fun out of the car, and thinks somebody owes him for all of the work. I have never heard of using an invitation to join in a local car show as an indication of value. I am invited to the Tour D'elegance at Amelia Island every year, but that has nothing to do with the $value of my '73 Z, most of the cars there are over $75k, with many over a million. The interest value is what sparks the invitation-different sparks interest, hence the invitation. I sometimes am interested in looking at totaled sports cars-but that does not mean I will pay more for one than a pristine and "original" version of the same car. This car must have hit a ricer just right-depending on who you ask! Will BTW, that car is NOT Department of Transortation street legal. It has no side markers, and the front combination lights and rear combination lights are not in the line of sight from a t-bone view. its date of manufacture requires one of the two. The headlight covers are usually left alone, though technically keep the car from being street legal as well.

Check your local "u-pullits", ebay, etc. Try to get a whole car- you want to get everything wired or bolted to the engine-and the pieces at the other end of the wires! I bought a complete turbo car off Ebay last year for $351, and sold almost $500 in parts off of it. or go to: www.car-parts.com 1982 nissan 280zx engine w/turbo I found approx 100 L28et s ranging from $850 to $175 If you go this route, you MUST call the yard and see if they have the wiring harness and ecm, or just the engine-most will have only the engine assembly-those pieces that are on the engine side of the manifolds-9 times out of 10 the Turbo is gone! Good luck! Will

Hope you had a great first day as a member, and you get that uploading thing figured out-Love to see, and talk about more Zs! Will

This is a Z we are talking about-Arizona240Z-that should be "NEKED!" With a Z there is always mischief involved! Will

Hope you had a great first day as a member, and you get that uploading thing figured out-Love to see, and talk about more Zs! Will

Welcome to both of you. Kick off your shoes. Get comfortable. there is a lot here, and we are glad you are part of it! Don't fear the assimilation, resistance is for 240Z fuse boxes! Will

Welcome to what we feel is the best website for classic Zcars! We do a lot of typing on Zcars, and a good bit on "what ever"! Enjoy the site and chime in too! Will

The door Panels are chipboard and steel, just like those in the S30. 1) remove the door panel trim. Lock switch and window switch trim pry off with a screwdriver, the door handles have bolts that are removed with a phillips screwdriver or a 10mm socket. 2) Use a putty knife(or large standard screwdriver) to gently pry the door panel off the door. Start at the lower edge and work around the door. The Fasteners are located on the bottom and the sides of the door panel, when all are free, gently lift the door panel up and off the door. 3) The upholstery on the panel is glued and stapled. Use a small standard screwdriver to remove the staples from the back side of the panel. When the staples are removed, genlty peel the upholstery off-keep it intact if you want to use it for a pattern. All traces of foam should be removed-glue doesn't retain adhesion to old crumbly foam. 4) Get some new upholstery material from a cloth store. 5) Get some 3M Weldwood (red can)and some cheep natural fiber paint brushes, and a lineoleum roller. 6) Trim the upholstery to fit the panel-the top seam is tricky. Brush glue on the door panel and the underside of the upholstery-give it a few minutes to thicken, and place it on the panel and roll out the bubbles. 7) trim the opening s for the switches, and holes for the door handle bolt. 8) Put the panels back on, fasten all of the fasteners. 9) Take pictures of your work and post them to your gallery 10) Post to this thread again to tell us you are finished. Post if you get stuck or have questions

Welcome to active participation! I too lurked before "signing up!" I think you will find your Z and your club very fulfilling! Will

Jason, A bill of sale is all the Georgia DMV requires on a cat that old. You will be legal and fine with that. I just wanted a title for mine in addition to being legal! Will

Drop your current rear carpet at an auto upholstery shop, have them cut and bind new carpet to fit. That should not be too expensive, and will ensure a good match! Will

I don't know if you are wanting the stock handle or not(should be the same through 77 or so), but, the T handle from a 280ZX will bolt right on, and is chrome plated metal, so it will not dryout and crack like the original-only took replacing 3 on my '76 to convince me it was the way to go. I have a few, so if a picture would help, let me know! Will

New Door Panels are too much money. Why don't you just replace the vinyl on the door panels? It is pretty easy to do. Will

Very beautiful car, but for the same price you could have 10 of the most beautiful Z cars you could find-where is your head! Seriously beautiful car! Will

Welcome to the club! Most original Zs need a lot of work! Many of the members here have been through several cars, and most more than willingly share information, spares, and, when in person, a cold one(well, maybe for your Dad-care for a Grape Nehi?). If you can't find the answers here, you aren't asking the right questions! If you aren't yet captivated by your Z, you soon will be! Just ask billramsey-another young-maybe not the youngest anymore-member here who has been bitten by the Z big in a big way! Again Welcome! Enjoy the ride! Will P.S. Don't over-look the value of the forum search function, as a newby you will probably find most of your first hundred or so questions answered there!

If my math is right, he is painting essentially 1/3 of the car anyway, and unless there is more bodywork to be done, $2200 seems a bit much for the rest of the car to have $200 worth of sealer, paint, and clear, that means that he expects to put an additional 40 hours or so into the car-hmmmmmm!

Keep your chin up, and later your foot can press down! Aggravation with a Zcar is a part of the territory, but when she is running right, the juices more than make up for the dry spell-take a look at my gallery, see what I am getting ready to start, and the wee bit of progress already made, and remember as I do, she will be a sweet ride, worth more in enjoyment than you could ever pay in frustration-the members here will help tp keep the repairs on track, and the mistakes to a minimum! Will

When are you listing the Flux Capacitor? What is your ebay name, would you consider selling off ebay? I hear they add 300hp, wash, wax, and dry the car to boot, and can even make up for not having A/C! At last, an: "I gotta get me one of these!" By the way, emails like this can be had by you, I am going to list a service on Ebay selling just such emails, I am going to list it under "Reality Emails"! The fact that there is a market for some of the genuine crap out there, Means I just could get rich. Be sure to hold your breath, if you cheat, it isn't as effective-or is it you aren't that gullable-whichever! Will