hls30.com

I have to agree with Enrique, assuming I fit within his presumption, I am more than happy to help someone with a problem that I have had experience taking care of. I do take joy at spotting Zs on trips and around town, and hoping maybe a post of mine has helped get it on the road. I have fully restored 23 early Z cars-getting ready to start #24-and I still get goose bumps-and the urge to get my hands dirty-when I see a Z wip on the road! The more detail, the better, and post pictures and notes-sometimes advice comes from memory, and details are not always finely placed! Your take might just make it easier for the next one reading the post! Will

Watch out , here comes another "WELCOME"! Everyone here loves Zs, pictures of Zs, questions on Zs, facts on Zs, and we are always ready for more Z friends! Hit the fridge for a cold one, get comfortable, kick your shoes off, and join right in! Will

That is a cool idea! I would probably use an enlargement of an emblem. I will really have to give that some thought! Thanks for the idea! Will

You really are not in over your head-Early Z-cars are very easy to work on! there aren't that many repairs that are that hard to do or require special tools. Working on your car is no more difficult than writing in GWBASIC! Yes, it is that easy! Most things go together and come a part with a 10mm wrench, 12mm wrench, a 14mm wrench or a 17mm wrench-if you have those and a #2 phillips screwdriver, and don't mind getting a little(or a lot) dirty, you pretty much can handle everyhting! Will

John, '77 and '78 had a factory cover that fits over the upper retractor, hiding the bolts and finishing the install! Will

You are in for the ride of your life! I doubt you will ever regret anything you spend on the car in terms of time or money! I am getting ready to do a "ground up" on a '72. If your bodywork is done you are very much ahead of the game, and should be able to have a very complete, reliable, comfortable and special car within your budget, like gema said, know what parts go for before you buy, become friends with Chloe at MWZ, and don't stress out. The members here are a great and helpful bunch! Enjoy the ride! Will

You're Welcome. Will "Thanks William , The year was listed wrong we think its a 72 . We found that date on the door jamb. The listing has been changed. The VIN# is on the listing. Thanks again Jim" P.S. For those of you getting older in age and bolder in rage, I have painted a florescent orange bullseye on my forehead!

I am not clear on how an invitation to join a club is tampering with an auction. At no point would I ever say anything to the affects of "don't buy that" or "don't buy from them". I would simply make available more information to base a purchasing evaluation on. The conclusion to be drawn is theirs. I guess Paypals' purchase insurance is the ebay answer. I like GunnerRobs idea-we have brought it up before in other threads-I think it should happen-if not here, then I have a site to park it on. I expect my friends to correct me when I am wrong, and to politely explain their opinion when they think I am about to make, or have made, a mistake. If they tell me something I don't want to hear, I respect them enough to honestly evalute their point of view. They understand that the decision is mine, and support me regardless of the outcome. They get the same responsibility, support, and acceptance from me. Will

You guys are going a little farther than I am talking about, I would send the bidder an invitation to join this club based upon the interest represented by his or her bid on a Z, and include as an FYI, a link to the thread discussing the car! All This would do is introduce opportunity. It is not for me to make up the buyers mind, just to allow him the opportunity to have access to some better information that may or may not enlighten him or her about the true nature of the proposed purchase. I do not see that an invitation to learn more about Z cars after a public purchase of one as an invasion of privacy. It was not my intention to give a "I'm Going in with guns blazing" appearance to my original post. Sellers may not know enough to give a correct blurb, buyers may not know enough to properly evaluate the blurb-my invitation to the club would go to both-allowing both equal access to the good information provided by our members, and granting the ability to make the conscious choices of whether to modify a discription, and whether to buy a car. Now-what do to based on the use of that information is for the owner of the money involved to figure out! I appreciate being a part of a club with members who are as passionate about their opinions as we are! Will PS. I am from Georgia, and the popular urban legend, that we kill what we don't understand, may be true. I do understand the alternative points of view, so no gunfire is coming from my garage!

Congratulations! I am anxious to see and hear about your progress! Will

The biggest advantage to snipeing-using auction magic-or any other software, is that other bidders can't test the waters to bid the price up. Putting an opening high bid on an item brings pride into the mix-which bids up the price artificially-the guys reselling parts know this-that's why some parts go for more than a local dealers selling price. Bidding on an item, and not seeing the high bidder change is frustrating to some people, and they get that gambling mentality-I'll win if I try again-it's only money. A pair of NOS door handles going for $127 plus $15 s&h is ridiculus! They can be had for less than $80 at any local Nissan Dealer! That auction was set up for the uninformed and/or lazy. The '83 turbo I bought proved that snipeing works against this. After losing similar auctions at over $500 by entering into bidding wars, I set the software to snipe the bid 12 seconds before close, I ended up getting the car for $351. The seller was shocked-he expected around $700, I recieved several sets of hate mail, but I picked up the car in Anderson, SC. I want to pay for the parts, not the emotional euphoria of winning an auction. Will

Auction Magic is an auction manager from pctechzone.com http://www.pctechzone.com/products.htm I have been using it for two years, and it is a great thing! The author is very responsive to emails, and consistantly improves the program. It has a great number of features, and has been well worth the registration fee. PM for more detail if necessary!! Will

If the doors aren't binding, I might move the car under its' own power to get it to a place to work on it, but no way I would drive it more than that until some structural repairs have been made. To many stresses in a moving car to trust the rust to hold it together! Will

I use auction magic, and set up my bid as soon as I find an item I really want-It is automated, and all I have to do is wait for the end of auction email-No, I'm not the guy in question either! Will

Justa because you can do a thing does no mean you should do a thing! Leave the shell for a sacrifice to the rust God, for the chance a good car might live from the stripped parts! Will

What do you think of warning the bidders? These people are soon to be info-hungry on the cars, and primed for membership here! Should we let them know that the pictures and the discriptions don't quite jive? Should we let them know what questions to ask? The last time I checked, the bid was at or about $3000-a person could get a decent 240 driver for that, and an honest idea of what was wrong with it. If we don't help out the newbies, they will get burned, that will lead to disgust, and abandonment of the hobby. Sharing info is what the club is about, here is a chance to give someone new a lesson on what to look for to make an informed decision. This may ring like another thread, but I am not one to ignore rust-in sheetmetal or in charactor! I take far more pride in trying to prevent someone from making a mistake than from feeling superior because I knew they would or did. Will

Kind of a neat idea, I like the access port, but the part about evacuating the air is a bit much. Have you ever hooked up a metal can to a vacuum pump? 14psi(at sea-level) doesn't sound like much, but it does take some ridigity to stop the deformaion it is capable of. Way bach in highschool, our physics class evacuated a metal "duplicating fluid can"-it went completely flat! We also evacuated a very sturdy pressed steel gas can-as I remember it was made out of steel about the same thickness as our body sheetmetal-flattened it until the metal tore! I would cut out a scrap section to try before doing thid on a car-might be messy! I think putting in a pair of your threaded access points(one at the top, and one at the bottom) and filling the area with a phosphoric acid solution, followed by a healthy couple of fluid and dry-air flushes, then POR 15 (or Eastwood) would probably take care of it! Will

2ManyZs is right on! The video will give you the insight of a buddy who has been there many times before, and pretty near make you an expert your first time! Will

Mellow, The creaks were coming from the speaker enclossure moving around against the sheet metal of the car-I made it fit around the strut towers(roughly "H" shaped)-I did not want to drill any holes in the steel to mount it. I made my strut brace. I wouldn't spend money for something so easy to make. A single piece of rigid tubing , a pair of shaped ends, six holes and two welds-less than one afternoon, and no worries about goofing up the way it looks after paying for it! I have not worries that at 17 you could find a better way to spend $135-one of the "three Gs"come immediately to mind-Girls, Go fast Goodies, or Gas for a roadtrip! Will

I have had an '82 L28ET running on '77 wiring, harness, ecm, distributor, etc. for more than 18 years. http://www.hls30.com/hls30_012.htm The number one thing is to make sure you have enough fuel to aviod the detonation caused by running lean. The tricky part was fabricating the idle adjustment-it is a brazed concoction that is ugly, but it works. My setup was made to run rich below WOT. 1) I used a 10k potentiometer on the cold start sensor to fool the car into thinking it was always cold and thereby add gas through the cold start injector, then through T&E with carefull driving adjusted until I got almost no ping at WOT. 2) I "adjusted" the arm on the airflow meter to get rid of the rest of the ping-then I backed off the 10k pot to "fine tune" the A/F ratio. 3) I advanced the timing and added a "Carter Knock Eliminator" to catch any knock I couldn't hear-it came with a calibrated sensor. 4) I added a "TurboSaver" timed electric oil pump(it ran for 15 seconds before it allowed the car to start,and 5 minutes after the car was shut off-18 years, same turbo, still going strong. This is not the optimal way to go-but for the first few years after I got it on the road, only a Grand National could consistantly beat me. Will

This is what I am using to polish my wheels-it does have the Glissten PC that I used to cleas coat my bumpers and emblems-it is damn near indestructable!! http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=333 Will

Mellow, It looks like you have a good setup started, I tried a similar approach, but Body flex going 'round the corners brought too many creaks, squeeks, and voids out in the install. I ended up putting a steel strut-brace across the tops of the towers, and attatching the enclosure to that. That took care of all of the previous problems, and made the car more stable in the "twisties" as well. I have since changed my approach because I need more hatch area than that one allowed. Will

6 hours worth of beautiful! I have that same situation to look folward to! I hope mine turn out as well! Will

Get with Chloe at MidwestZ-PM her-MWZ on this site. Great service and prices! Will