hls30.com

A Tomatoe is a member of one of my favorite food groups, the kind you throw at ricers! seriously it is a fruit! The largest 3 digit number is ZZZ! What type of plant is an avacado? What type of animal is a Plattypus? What is recto-cranial inversion? When was the war of 1812 fought? Will

1) take the Alternator to AutoZone or any place that will check it for free-it could be the root of this evil. 2) None of us could be that lucky, go throught the battery connections and fuse box with your VOM, check the resistance across each connection. (One lead on a clean area on each side of the connection-just like you checked your engine grounds-but the leads will only be 1/2" apart) When you find a connection with high resistance, take it apart, clean it, put it back together, and check it again. For there to be that much resistantance in your system, the problem is between the battery and the out bound wires at the fuse box. Will

You probably have a blocked fuel line. First I would do the obvious-check and replace the fuel filter. Remove the old one and try to blow through it-if you can keep looking. I even put pressureized air through both the return line and the feed, the return line was not blocked, but the feed line was. The next obvious place is the pickup. Under the carpet and the pad, in the hatch area floor there is a round panel with two bolts through it. Remove the two bolts, and the cover and your pickup is staring you in the face. It is a held in the tank with a bunch of bolts. Remove the hoses and disconnect the gage sender, remove the bolts and carefully remove the pickup. you may have to gently . When I took mine out it was completely clogged-even the basket type pre filter. I used two cans of Carb-cleaner, an acid brush and a length of copper wire to clean it out. First I sprayed cleaner in a container, and immersed the basket in it. After a good soak, I used the brush to gently clean the basket, the outside of the tube, and the electrical contacts. Then I went to work on the tubing, I flattened and sharpened the end if the wire, and worked it into the tube in a twisting motion, rinsing the crap that came loose out with carb cleaner It clog was not hard, but it did take a while to clear. Then I pulled pieces of a scotchbrite pad through the tube and rerinsed it thoroughly. I repalced the pickup and the car fired right up! Remember this is all being done around Gasoline-disconnect the battery, no smoking, and remember the life you save by being too careful WILL be your own! An extra 10 minutes of careful preparation could easily save a set of services, a lengthy stay in the hospital, or both! Will

Actually, I was talking about inside and outside! If both are sealed annd silenced, neither the rust of the noise will get through! Will

I am going to use POR15, and then roll-on some urethane bedliner material-impact resistant, and deadens sound! Will

Dead on to what 2manyZs said. I have dealt with Reaction Resaerch for several years. The owner is John Washington-check out the site-he has spent a massive amount of time answering questions, and posting them. You could probably find all you want to know about the kit there. He is very buisy but friendly and helpful, I don't believe you could go wrong buying from him. Will

It is a fortunate man who has the supplies, the tools, and the knowledge to repair rust, and the situation that will let him be honest about what it will cost to fix! I long ago had all but the last one-but not answering a question is not the same as lying is it? Will P.s. sorry to hear about "the frame rail supriser"-sounds like something my High School served for lunch!

There is nothing wrong with talking about your girl, I was just giving you some grief! You should talk about the important things/people in your life. Just make sure the Z comes first! Maybe by a slim margin, but first! I think I am more proud that you are talking about your girl! Will

Looks like your alternator has more current than my synapses! You are right about the pulley! Sorry, temporarily brain:dead: Your engine ground is good too! Will

Aint rust a bite in the arse! That is wht I am sealing both sides of the floorboards! Glad you caught it! Will

Thanks for the replies, I have been grinding the crap-er adhesive out of the floor for a solid 10 days. I hope to finish tomorrow. I am down to the last 20 feet of the four inches closest to the wall that the surface grinder from Home Depot wouldn't touch. I have the cleanup left, and then to put down the coating! Will

Oops, my mind was on the subject-that didn't turn out right either-anyway the "R" was a typo-should have been a "W" Will

Talk about a crank-yanker-you would be spankin' the ricers for sure! Kind of a neat and fun thing to have a wolf in sheeps clothing! Will

What no mention of girls! Oh, I get it, Nissan Sold as many S30s in the states as you have had girlfriends....now I understand! !

Alternative thought, bolt the turbo head on your 240 block. Much better flow, NO valve noise, no periodic valve adjustment. Your manifolds will bolt right up, and you have more tunability! More flow, more go! I would also put the turbo oil pump in the mix. Will

I agree with Zmefly, if you don't want to get into your engine, then put the whole turbo engine in your car. Everything will fit, and the factory, Chiltons, or Haynes engine trouble shooting will still apply! I have an '82 turbo engine running on the ECM and wiring from a '77 it runs well NOW! Save your time and energy for driving, move the whole thing, engine, ecm and harness! Will

LRB, Billy Joel, Humpty, Kiss, they're all story tellers, but when you can tell your story with only a voice, a bass and a piano, youve got something like "Great Balls of Fire"! Will

Most digital multimeters don't care about polarity, an in checking the voltage drop from the body to the engine it really won't matter. Put one probe on a machined surface of the block (usually there is a little of the deck the head bolts to sticking out) and the other probe on the negative terminal of the battery. Anything other than 0(a negative reading is still not 0) or really close means you probably need to clean your connections on the negative battery lead, replace the wire, or add another ground strap the the block. In my '73 the stock alternator will charge the battery at idle-the ammeter moves toward the "+" slightly at adle after starting. Putting a smaller pulley on the alternator will lower the charging ability of the alternator at every RPM. That means that you will have less-if any-charging at idle depending on the size of the new pulley. If you spend a lot of time waiting at stoplights, or cruizing below 1500 rpm, and have some high current items-major sterio, running lights, use the A/C, you could run your battery down-several of the electrical problems you have had-and repaired would be enough to convince me to leave the stock pulley alone, clean all of the contacts on at least the primary electrical system, and maybe upgrade the alternator. Will

Probably wanted to post a "honest" ad-but what no pictures! All serious ads require pictures! We need to know maintenance issues, how much space in the garage, GVR, can she be taken anywhere-that didn't come out right-suitability of visiting high-faluting eating establishments-would the valets fight for a ride-that didn't come out right either-I'm going to quit before I really trip over this thread! Will

I am going to work on this too-I just bought 500 ultra bright leds (10000mcd@20ma) with 470 ohm resistors for materials. I am going to replace all of the bulbs in the car except the headlights. I am going to pull the dash in about two weeks, strip it, and send it for a rework. While it is gone, I will work out all of the particulars of getting the leds in place-if you guys don't get to it first, I'll video tape the installation, and post it! Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Will

You forgot the worst of all: DeathRACE2000" Will

The efi system uses a higer fuel pressure than a carb based system, and it returns excess fuel to the tank! Putting a complete fuel injection system from a later car on a car that had a carbureator requires one of three things: 1) A Tank made for fuel injection(one line in and one larger line out) or 2) A smaller surge tank fed from the original gas tank, and the return line from the injector fuel pressure regulator or 3) adding a return line to the original gas tank, and probably upgrading the size of the original fuel line. The Stock EFI system is good for some added performance; but, getting more than 20% more power will probably take upgraded injectors and an ecm. The duty cycle of the injectors and their flow rate determine when the fuel delivery system is no longer able to keep up with the air going through the motor. Will

I have used the wheel polishing kit from POR15.com. It comes with everything needed except a motor! It has all of the supplies for 4 wheels, and comes with a "we'll send you more at no charge if you run out before the four wheels are done" guarantee! Will

Dan, I appreciate your thoughts on what may become a "cooling system Science Project"! I agree, for the results to be meaningful as a whole, there has to be an appropriate basis for comparison, and changes have to be made one at a time, tuned for, and verified. There are a great number of tests that can be made before Dyno time and/or tuning would be necessary. In the preliminary stage, I think this can be setup and tested for about $325 without damage or risk to the car if carefully, and thoughtfully done. It will only be proven to work in reversing the flow, and not overheating, but that would be a first step. If it doesn't work we have lost no more than one day and some supplies-sort of like a day racing when you don't win, but you do finish... My project will be using a hacked GM ecm and its associated goodies to bring everyhting else into a consistant and data trackable performance. I will tune the engine in factory configuration first. I don't think the "Bo and Luke Duke" school of modification is an appropriate avenue to work from, but I also don't believe that it is always necessary to have an engineering degree to use logic and the scientific method to apply technology. Will