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The mirrors I have seen on the fenders of most Z-cars are actually coppies of The Talbot Jr. or Talbot Sr. Any Cobra fabricator or restoration parts place should stock replicas for $30- $50-I would mount and adjust exactly right, tape them up, and clear-coat them for longevity-the plating is pretty, but not made for a car that spends too much time outside. Here is a sample-look at the Talbot examples, There is a difference in the diameter of the mirrors, and the length of the bases. http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?ZTM=cadeffia&GHOME=www.cobrarestorers.com&TITLE=Cobra_Restorers The answer to your riddle is BLEACH!

Three suggestions for your cover trim without having to get a loan! In a past issue of Hot Rod Magazine there was a company that made a multitude of highly flexible chrome look plastic trim. They were highliting its use as a replacement for lost window and trim mouldings, it could give you what you are looking for with the easy of application of doublestick tape and probably for about $20! Get a .040 sheet of 1001 aluminum. Cut it out and press it to fit (that alloy is so soft you can wad it up with one hand, and cut it with an exacto knife). polish it with some mothers mag polish, or Flitz, and walla! You have a bright shiny metal headlight coverl! If you don't like that, what about masking off the most of the inside(leave a 1/2"ring) and all of the outside of the cover and spraying a high quality mirror paint to get the look, the paint will be on the inside, so it won't get scratched! That will give you the look for $5 Just some suggestions!

I would not use that kind (a 2 gage wire with 60 strands)of wire-it is household wiring, All of what I would buy would be type 3 or better(1040 strands or more)-now I understand your thoughts, and hope this makes this situation clear: Even the best wire will get hot if it has a bad connection due to corosion, but a clean, well connected 2 gage wire made up of 1,040 tin plated strands should have absolutely no trouble carying the Starter current for a Z (less than 60 amps) for 5 feet without heating up noticeably.

When you look at the Different systems out there (Motec, Holley, DFI...) look at the specific parameters that are adjustable, (Injector pulse, ignition timing, IAC opening, Waste gate bleed...), the parameters that are read, (O2, Detonation, cyl head temp, Map/MAF,...), the ease of programming, the ease of installation, and the availability of sensors and replacement parts. Many of the systems are well made and do a great job of controlling the engine. Some of them even have the ability to manipulate your progaming parameters to super-tune performance. After considering all of the above, I chose to go with a transplanted GM system. This is not an option for the faint of heart. It has been dificult to get all of the info I needed, but I have accumulated everything I need-except enough time-and I am grafting the sensors and the controls to the L28ET. The GM system gives more control over more systems, and has the ability to continually fine tune, and learn how you use your right foot. It has been proven for millions and millians more miles than all of the other systems combined. All of the sensors, and the ecm are on the shelf at Napa, and readily available at all local retailers and GM Dealers. The Wiring is completely documented(connectors are waterproof and available for customization), and the Datalogging is absolutely the best available. There are even seven unused control channels to give the ability to tie supplemental additional feature controls(Nitrous, water injection, intercooler spray, a2w pump control-to name a few) into the ecm. Best of all the parts are cheep! I have about $1700 in the whole system- the programming hardware(including a new laptop) /software, the ecm, harness, sensors, and controls. I will be duplicating the system on three cars, the additionsal cost of each one will be less than $350(ecm, harness, sensors and controls & addl. parts) because I do not have to duplicate any of the tuning or data logging hadware and software. There are cheeper-and perhapse better systems out there-this is what I chose after three months of intensive research, and a big part of why.

Yes, I believe you are correct, the tin will lower the current capacity, but I seriously doubt that, short of using a vey sensitive meter to prove your point, I would ever see a difference between 2 gage tinned and 2 gage in the operation of the gear reduction starter.

I think the reason so few people running high numbers are using the P90A is due to the fact that so many of the people they used for information have told them that the P90A is "Junk". If you built a high HP engine , and I ask you how you did it, You will tell me to you used the P90 head. To build on your experience, I put a very similar engine together, put my build on a website, and now the consensus of conventional wisdom is that the P90 is the way to go-never mind the fact that nobody can point to a documented case where the P90A failed, and earned the bad rep it has. They just explored the price-not the necessity-of a rebuild. To put my money where my mouth is, My 240Z is getting a 1983 L28ET with the P90A with programmable EFI with a 3 bar map, Data logging, and I expect to be in the company of those few having High HP. When My setup makes the grade, or not, there will be the factual case for, or against, the P90A.

The P90A head has advantages and disadvantages. If you keep your foot in it all the time, and are always at high rpm, then the P90 is much easier and economical to rebuild, and is probably a better choice. If you drive on the street, "wind it out" occasionally, and want a quiet engine, the P90A requires no valve adjustment, and is almost completely silent, and has much higher mtbf because of having fewer moving parts. Also they can be had cheeper because most people think they are junk. Think about it, they are the ultimate evolution of the 6 cyl L series head-designed for a car that was designed to be comfortable, quiet, and fast- exactly the same car the P90 was designed for. Don't forget, if the P90 was everything the Datsun Engineers wanted, they would not have replaced it with the P90A so close to the end of the run of the L series engine-whay would they pay for the re-tooling for the manufacture of the P90A if there was no advantage?

For my soon to be started 240Z Restoration, I chose the lead plated-solid brass solder-in (Use a torch-a soldering iron can't touch this) battery terminals found here: http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/216_36 with the color coded stainless steel battery bolts found here: http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/216_37 with the wire from West Marine-it is less prone to corrosion because the entire length of each strand is tinned. Waytek has great wire at a great price, but it is not tinned. I want to do this once. I will also wire in a high amperage relay to keep the under hood amperage too low to start the car unless a hidden switch is triggered(It only takes OSG with a quarter and the knowledge to use it to take our cars) I also am using a battery picked to fit a Volvo S80, the terminal locations are correct as is the size, and the battery has a vent fitting built in-run a piece of tubing out the bottom of the car, no fumes or fluid on the sheet metal to cause cancer.

I am also collecting parts to rewire/update portions of my 240Z electrical system. Fuse box, Headlight circuit, LED side-markers and tail lights, instrument lights, Radio, etc... I am using a blade type fuse box and circuit breakers from Waytekwire. The box is similar in size, shape, and # of circuits to the original and runs about $30. Check it out at: http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/216_63 I will also be using weatherpack connectors for the engine compartment-updating to a GM Managed L28ET All new engine harness needless to say!

The chain and the lock reminds me of the Britcoms-Some one has been watching too much Mr. Bean!

At a location where I was more worried about the car than its contents, I made a blindingly Bright red "U" out of 4", thick wall rounded-corner square tubing. It went under the car with the rear tires inside the arms of the U. I closed the open end off with "The Club" and ran and locked a rubber-coated heavy chain through one of the rear suspension members and holes in both sides of the "U". The car can't be jacked or pulled out of this contraption because of the chain, Starting it will do no good-the wheels will spin on the tubing. The only ways out without the key are a cutting torch or a cutoff wheel. Several cars in the area were stolen-some more than once; but, I believe having a massive bright red steel sign that screamed "More time than you want to spend" kept it from being messed with. Yes, it was a pain to use, but the extra 5 minutes going and coming was more than worth knowing without a doubt the car would be there.

Try this link, The owner manufactures body kits for Zs and ZXs- USA company, I have no clue as to what shipping to you would be! Lots of good info on Z(X) body kits though! http://reactionresearch.com/automotivedetails.htm

I put Fierro seats in my 240. I replaced the original speakers in the headrests and had them recovered in Vinyl with clothe inserts (www.hls30.com for a veiw) They fit well-and many upholstery options are available inexpensively at: www.mrmikes.com and from www.upholsterykits.com. What ever you get, be sure to tag them with what they came from, so years from now you will know what covers to buy!

I believe the hole under the "double ganger" cover you are looking at is for the european version of the hazzard switch. It has two pabbles, and the ability to flash the lights on either side of the car independantly-depending on which side was closest to the road. Will

That switch is probably also used on the Roadsters-the sketch looks familiar. I will break out my copy of Nissan Fast (the factory replacement to the fische)and see if it is shown-many parts(steering wheel, lugnuts and switches to name a few) are shared. I will see if I can find anything, and get back if I do. Will