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I judged interior-I noted everything that I counted off for-to the point of running completely out of space! I like to let people improve their cars for the next show, so try to detail the sap out of anything I count off for. Will

Ron, I have a substitute knob I'll send you-looks right, but slightly different. Will

Search "Step Light"- Kats bought one on ebay a year or two ago-and he photographed and posted it. Will

1) Degreaser is the first step. If you use a water based one, boil the parts in it and they will come clean in one or two sessions-no need for a long soak. 2) Cleaning-wire brush/media blast/tumble/acid treat/-removes the corrosion that the original finish(normally a pretty iridescent gold Cadmium plating) took to keep the steel fasteners from rusting. 3) Coat with WD40 if you aren't going to take the parts to the plater immediately-to keep rust away. 4) Deliver the protected hardware to the plater(then go to step 5) or clean and coat yourself. 4a) DIY-Degrease again, and either paint(cadmium finish paint can be found here) or plate with a zinc/cad system from caswellplating.com (be sure to add the yellow chromate kit to duplicate the original finish)or equivalent.Follow the instructions accompanying the refinishing system you chose. (See step 6.) 5) Pick up the parts when they are ready 6) Reinstall. Will

I think Al's using two tiewraps to hold in the new A/c he installed in Larrys car goes the other way... Will

I have bought a HEALTHY number of parts from Rare Spares-excellent service, and good prices! Will

bwilderom, It would'nt worry me in the least, remove and remount where it suits you-as pointed out, everyone is sure it was in there, but no one but the installer can say exactly where! If that is the worst issue the car has, count your blessings! Carl, All of the earlier cars I have seen are mounted as you describe-most of the the '72 and '73s I have found out and about(unrestored chance encounters of "stored" cars) have been as I noted-at the times, I found it odd too, given AJ pointed out exactly what you said about installation time/allowance and bracketry(with a comment about proper pulley attatchment thrown in as well!)...It is very cool to have a genuine Nissan mechanic/early adopter enthusiast with you when you comes across an old Z where it was left. Will

Hi, and welcome to the club! That is the AC receiver/Dryer, they are typially mounted close, but not there. Moving it will only be an issue if the attatched hoses do not have enough slack. It also looks like you have a York/British Leyland piston type compressor mounted where the smog pump was, and that is probably the reason that location was attractive for the receiver/dryer. Most '72s and late that I have seen had the ac compressor mounted on the ds of the engine down low, instead of the ps up high as yours is. A/C was a dealer installed option, and not one installed at the factory. Dealers sold and used what they had, so it is possible that it is as it was sold new-though I have not seen one installed like that before. Will

I went out today to check on the paint and body progress on Larry's car. The paint was chemically stripped to about 70% clean so as to show the type and quality of metal repair Al did in his restoration of the car. What was found was: 1) More mismatched, un-restored, hardware-store fasteners securing everything-the Air conditioner condenser was held on with just two zip ties. 2) A healthy amount of dent repair was done with filler on top of two or more layers of paint-1/8" in places-indicating that the only attempt at sheet metal repair was to call for less filler, and not to correct the shape of the metal. 3) In many of the places where the layers of old paint were ground off, the metal was allowed to sit uncovered long enough to "brown" from exposure, and veins of rust had already started under the filler. 4) As illustrated earlier, the car had been hit front and rear, under the filler at the roof seam at the passenger side quarter window was one of six kinks in the chassis caused by front and rear impact. The passenger side measures almost one inch shorter than the drivers side, explaining the fact AL could not get the front bumper to bolt up on that side no matter how much he tweaked it. The Kinks also explained the torn spot welds on the core support. One thing I did not catch was the fact that the repair to the rear of the car was so poor that the taillight panel is actually leaning inward-explaining the voids at its attachment to the rear floor, and the buckling in the spare well and on either side of it in the rear floor-the rear panel was manipulated under pressure and welded in to fit, the area was not trammed correctly then the panel replaced after properly fitting it to the cut out area. Some of my pictures did not come out well, I will retake and post them in the next few days. The Gentleman Restoring the paint and body work is no stranger to concours work, among his many awards for his work his cars have won awards at: 1) Hilton Head Island Concours (Ferrari) 2)Shelby American Automobile Club (289 COBRA DRAGONSNAKE and 289 COBRA USRRC) 3) Pebble Beach Concours (1940 Continental Town car, made from a cabriolet, 1941 Continental Coupe-both restored for Director Joel Silver) 4) Amelia Island Concours (Ferrari 250GTO) Currently in the Spa with Larrys 240Z are a big Healey, a series 1 Jag XKE, and a Ferarri Testarossa, when I dropped the car off last week, there was a Rolls Royce Silver Cloud, An Aston Marton DB9, and some American muscle. As a side note, the gentleman who handled the Mechanical correction to Larry's car Grew up working in a Savannah Z specific garage. He was an ASE certified Master Mechanic by his eighteenth birthday. He spent several years working for Winston Cup Racing teams, was the track manager at Roebling Road and has built countless champion cars for privateers and large companies. Among his many victories he has the distinction of winning the Pan American Road Race, La Carrera PanAmerica, in a car he designed and built. Will PS-Yup that is Larry's car checking out the fanny of the Testarossa through the doorway...

It attached originally with the heat deformation of two plastic pins(the sprues) after insertion through the console. Removing the piece forces the bent over parts to be removed, frequently a reheat can hold them in, but a drop of silicone on the posts from the back works well and is easly removable if necessary. I'll post both sides of both pieces and a placed for installation pic as well. On the chrome-which wouuld you prefer-not being picky does not mean you do not have a preference! Pm me your address! Will

If you really want to floor a Nissan Parts Department, take in an original Parts Manual/service manual-I've done it twice, both times the counter person paged everyone in the parts department to have a look-seems like fireworks going off! oohs and aahs all around! Will

I bought the NOS ones to complete four NOS consoles I bought from Datsun Spirit a couple of years before-they are all spoken for, but I'll see if I have a really good used one-I collected several to use for molds before I found the NOS variety. It may take a week or two to find, but I will hunt for you. There are two versions of these, those with the outer perimeter in chrome, and those with out the chrome. I can put the chrome on one without if you want it that way, or leave it all black-up to you, the all black is the earlier version from what I have found. My NOS pieces have the chrome-I'll see about posting a picture for comparison/posterity when I round up the used ones. Will

Dejavu...:eek:. I have something in common with those guys:dead: Will

Old, you might have used a slide rule, but an abacus would date you...I had a Timex Sinclair 1000 bought from Cirtcuit City-both are gone now! Will

I think you mean the rectangular panel with a Z in the middle and what looks like cutouts for switches. I bought a couple of NOS ones from new datsun parts-a couple of years ago-to complete my NOS consoles. Used ones occasionally show up on ebay, they are on my to be reproduced list... Will

Talk about a piece of History! Will

329 people know better-but my guess is they won't say anything:rolleyes:...but they'll know... If you had never said anything, you and the DMV would know-and trying to get info out of them is worse than pulling a spindle pin out of a corner that has been pulled and in the weeds for years! Will

It occurred to me that sealing the opening into the passenger compartment would be a good thing too. At first thought simply sealing that large opening sounds like a quicker and easier answer, sealing the openings to the outside is necessary. One of the most frequently rusted out areas at the back of the cars is the hatch shelf. It rusts out because of continual exposure to the tailpipe fumes and condensation continually pulled into that area and the failure of the body seals/paint due to vibration/expansion/contraction. Pretty much one of the two reasons the hatches also rust out... In my opinion, sealing all of the holes in the hatch is a necessary action. I haven't used the emblem clips that come on the emblems in years, I run a small bead of silicone adhesive around the emblem pins, and allow it to seal the area and hold the emblems on. I also run a film of the same silicone on both sides of the the rubber seals on all of the locks, and the door mirror, being carefull not to allow the silicone to get close enough to the outer edge to peek out after the squeeze of final assembly. The silicone comes off easily when the parts are separated, and keeps the seals from leaking as they get old. Will

Ron, It is obvious you don't spend much time in the dark-not surprising given you are such an enlightened guy-you did better than i could-I wouldn't even post my attempt! Will

I received the Pavillion Rental Confirmation today. To nail down the particulars, Pavilion #5 at the North Beach is rented For "Z Enthusiasts" from sunrise to sunset on Saturday, March 14th 2009. The Pavilion is rated at 40 adults, has 8 picnic tables, between two and four grills, a beach access boardwalk right off of it, and is convenient to restrooms, shower facilities, and most importantly 104 parking places! Will I almost forgot, The cars Parade in down the Amelia Island Causeway starting EARLY Sunday morning, so if you plan to park together we will have to park EARLY, or the night before...

I did the "37 year service" to my original antenna (and a couple of extras) and put it away for posterity. All of them went from barely moving and noisy as hell to smooth as glass and almost silent...almost a shame to file them away in a box! I am closing the fender, and installing a wire antenna in both the front and rear wind shield weatherstripping.

unfortunately they are a part of the Black Pearl pieces I have collected, so they aren't for sale, but I will keep an eye out for you. I do have parts cars that have louvers-or did at one time, so next time I am at the farm, I'll have a look! Will Mgood, your louvers look bigger than the window-the sets I have are all the same size as the Weatherstrip-meaning they don't cover hardly any of the hatch sheetmetal-only at the top(for the hinges. I don't have them and a hatch handy to illustrate, but they seem to fit the opening much closer than yours. If I put the latches to the underside of the louver, they would have to be mounted on a piece of sheet metal and it would be between the weatherstrip and the glass.

As promised: Will

Some did, but only from the Dealer-not a Nissan part. Will

Headlight covers-MSA for aftermarket, zcustoms for repro Hatch-Ebay Will