hls30.com

It goes SLOW! The scanning is done, but the indexing and menues are monsterous. I want to make the searches as thorough as possible across all of the documents, and that is proving a serious task for any software I have tried. The most serious issue is to protect the data so that it remains exclusive to this club. The last thing I want is to have spent this much time and effort(by me and others) doing something to help the club and have it or parts of it end up on ebay lining the pockets of a lazy bastard, or posted on another website. This iteration of this content is for this club and the exclusive personal use of its members. I am completely open to suggestions for menues and further copy protection. As to the size. A healthy number of the scans were done in high resolution that really does not help viewing the documents, if I lower the resolution, they can all fit on a DVD, and be useable-even if printed. Will

Yes, it did, but his idea of a new hatch, and Nissans are just a wee bit different-not to mention MINE! I'll have to find a local member to ask to check it out-looks like rust free may be a matter of interpretation, not fact... Will

Yup! I wanted the hatch for the Fully Restored car Al Newell sold.

Take out the rivets at the top and they will either fall or pop our-pressure clipped in, held by the rivets. Will

A preview of ebay things to come...again, and again, and again! Will

Most of those NOS parts are still available from your local dealer, fenders, hood, etc, with very little travel time to get them. I talked to him (Really nice guy!) about the parts, He got more than what he was looking for ($1000), and good for him! Too much money and time for the parts I wanted. Will

...So you are the one who bought the Catipillar yellow 280zx powered snow plow several years ago! Standing out is not aways a good thing! Will

:eek: Stephen...Pinto.....Pintohno! Say it aint so! Then again...Bambikiller240Z did confess to keeping(hiding?) a pinto in his garage....so you were in good company... Mike, did you ask to see if anyone was closer to check it out for you? Will

Well, with because the tank has two 6" diameter sender openings(saddlebag style tank), allowing me to get to most of the tank, I chose to clean it out with simple green, some really hot water, and a serious slathering of elbow grease! I flowed around three cup fulls of loose fine sawdust consistency crap out with carefull aiming of the hose, then got busy and scrubbed everywhere I could reach(most of the tank) with a shop rag. The default sender side had a plastic baffle in it-fortunately held in by 5 bent over metal strips-that I was able take loose, and manipulate the baffle inside the tank to clean the areas it covered. add an hour, a blow dryer, and a four foot piece of 2"pvc pipe(to keep the blow dryer out of the fumes exiting the tank)and the tank was bone dry and back to a dull gray zinc finish inside! Since I had power to the sender harness, I replaced the fuel pump-certain it was simply frozen from being suspended in all of the crap I took out of the tank-only to find the new pump didn't work! I then thought "what a dipstick for I was for assuming", and ran my jumpbox to the old pump and started right up...$250 I shouldn't have spent...then I tried power directly to the new pump-suprise, it worked too. Tracking the issue further, the power for the pump is sent through the sender cap through a brass rivet sandwiching and centering what amounts to two plastic washers, a rubber insulator, and a brass washer that is connected to the pump. I had power to the rivet and not to the brass washer it was swagged on to! Contact cleaner was no help-the first time DeOxit has let me down-so I punted... I trimmed off the swagged part of the rivet, and separated the rivet and the brass washer. As with a typical rivet, there was a significant hollow portion still usable-though not as intended. I found the hollow portion was around 2.1mm in diameter, and the rivet was 3mm in diameter, so I drilled the hollow portion slightly larger and used a 2.5mm stainless machine screw to thread the hole to a depth of approx 1cm. Then I put two nuts on the machine screw, trimmed it to size with a dremel cut-off wheel, dressed the end, put a stainless lock and flatwasher on the screw and tightened her up! When tested, the pump ran like it should I replaced the sender, put in some gas and started her up. She ran smooth(vibration-wise), but noisy(empty lifters-seriously loud squeeling belt) immediately-more white smoke than I could believe-thought briefly a head gasket had given up... After 20 minutes the smoke tapered off to none, and the engine ran even smoother(I wouldn't have thought it possible) and quiet as a mouse! I even had time this afternoon to get her insured and tagged! Now I just have to get new tires and pads, and take her out on the road! A friend who is a Nissan tech came over, and used his reader to reset the ecm, found a bad Vehicle Speed Sensor, and remarked how dead on everything else was! We did not one peculiar dripping sound with no accompanying puddle...something to keep and eye on as I take her off the jack stands... Will

Jagsthatrun.com

I think I would just walk away...the guy has only a vague idea of what he has, and even less of an idea how to sell it. You only hide what you don't want people to know, and as a vague seller, what you don't want people to know when selling something are the things that keep it from being valuable. Will

Ron, put me up for a set, I think I have a pair or two of clear glass lenses that will fit-it I do, they do and you want the second set, they are yours-a little closer to the originals-I'll even color the reflectors for you. Will

That white stuf is not snow, read the ad again...pretty clear what it is...and that the seller has been on it too long.... Will

Is it just me, or does it sound crazy to think someone will by a low vin without knowing what the vin is? This would be a case of "For those that truely want to sell. I won't reveal my bid until the vin is posted." Will

I would be very interested-but only with the approval of Mr. Brock! Will

It is far better than a Z33, worse than a Z32, and atleast favors a 240Z more than an Audi! The front and rear lighting and teeth look to be lifted right out of cartoons-I just can't take them seriously...but then cartoons were solely for enjoyment...untill ProjectX! I haven't seen the 370Zs options list, but a portable hole and an acme dis-integrator ray gun would be right at home, and a commercial where Wiley catches the road runner in a 350Z would work as long as Bugs, Chip, Dale, Yosimite Sam, the Elephant, and the singing frog(for a 350z link) are worked in, and maybe the alien to dis-integrate the competition...or those who don't take the teeth and lights seriously! I am sure it is a great car. Will

Welcome to the club! The first advice and suggestion is to post pictures! we want to see what you have as a starting point! The second, don't forget the power of the search function specifically! Lots of questions have answers posted with serious time in them-missing those diamonds because of not looking far enough is tragic! Welcome again! Will

That statement is one you use to "help" someone (not in tune with using cars as an investment) justify parting with money. If the car really had "tremendous investment potential" and it was mine, I think other things would be going on ebay first, or I would be finding a partner for the investment....and sell a share. Now if that were a "73 Rally car-not only would the price be significantly-four probably more times higher, but you would get the current owners fingers permanently embedded in the rear bumper(from holding on), but there would be a real example of "tremendous investment opportunity! Will

pull the access panel under the hatch carpet and pad, check your sender/fuel tank....a sitting car gets gas issues from sitting. Will

Obviously yesterday came and went! Everything was sewn up, put in 6 gallons of high test, turned the key healthy turn over noises, but no fire up! Traced to no fuel pump cooperation. Fuel pump relay checks out, power to the pump, no spinning! figure out how to get to the thing-Nissan really did a poor wizz-poor job in the fsm on dealing with the convertibles(at least in '93). pop open the access and the tank is full of rust colored growth-it wipes off to reveal a pretty talk surface underneath, but man Just goes to prove the point if a car is going to be sitting for more than a few weeks, add stabil, if it has been sitting more than a year-just go ahead and drop the tank-in an S30 you can drop the tank in about an hour taking your time having never done it. In the Z32. it looks like a serious undertaking-drive shaft, exhaust, subframe-hell as with most everything on this car, half of the car has to be removed to repair almost anything! Will

Well, the painter just vetoed the composite panel. He said he would be happy to handle spoliers, vents, etc, but he has been bitten too many times on painting/fitting composite body panels. Will

Ron, that was a side purpose of this thread, the paint and Bodywork Man(quite a find by the way) doesn't want the car for a month-so I will be correcting the electrical issues, the heater control issues, the AC issuesl, and insulating the cloor and fitting the carpet(to be removed once fitted)before painting. I am going to talk to the painter today about 2:30est to finalize the details, get the car on his schedule(with a fat deposit), and sort out whether he will accept Composite parts or not. When I mentioned them on the initial interview, he hemmed and hawed about using them. But this guy is "the Man" he does body and paint on a first in first out basis, he has painted more winning show cars than you can count, most recently, the overall winner at the Hilton Head Concourse this year. Will

Arne-I missed that-too close to the project I guess... That would work too. I just want to get together a bunch of options so that I can choose the best one.

Doug, That isn't a stupid question-as I said: "I have a full set of NOS pieces(other than the hatch) so I can reproduce them if necessary, and the only part of reproducing the hatch opening that I see as an issue is forming the stiffening flanges at the top(closest to the glass) because of limited access to the area for appropriate tools." I am simply looking for alternatives. With the depth of ability, skill, and interest here, I believe someone will have already "been here and done something about that!" I am going to address every gap individually. There will be no point of entry in the rear of the car and under the hood left un addresses. We have several threads about replacing rear fuel/vapor hoses and sealing the exhaust out. I will re-read through all of those and I come up with something new, I will post it as well. Will

I am going to be replacing the vented Hatch on Larrys car with a non vented hatch because the steel under the paint is simply too far gone to repair(as is the hood,and both will serve as absolute proof of condition for the pending litigation), and of five hatches I have looked at, all are pretty useable on the outside at but seriously eaten up on inspection with a mirror/borescope. I have found a later non-vented hatch that is suitable. Composite from John at BetaMotorsports-no rust issues ever!. John has sent me a wealth of pictures, and I am going to the chosen paint and body shop to show them the composit pieces and get their take before ordering. Anyway, Larry asked me: If you replace the vented hood with a non-vented version how will the car vent?" My answer was either to put vents in it to replace those lost in replacement hatch, or crack the windows. Larry had a great question I had not thought too much about. I realize the cars are not sealed well-this one especially-fumes like you can't believe-but other than actually recreating a vented hood from one that is not, has anyone done anything to vent a moving car(other than rolling down the windows) when giving up the hatch vents? The current plan is to paint the area that the hatch grills cover flat black and to shave the mounting tabs off a set of grills and attach them with emblem tape so the the grill appears to be vented and match the car. This plan is to aleviate the possibility of fumes finding their way past Als idea of restoration where the internal plenum and associated parts are just "thrown in there"; because of broken/missing parts the plenums are not installed even close to correctly, and I am sure that is contributing to the exhaust in the car-though I have not examined the floor/hose/taillight seals yet. Will I have a full set of NOS pieces(other than the hatch) so I can reproduce them if necessary, and the only part of reproducing the hatch opening that I see as an issue is forming the stiffening flanges at the top(closest to the glass) because of limited access to the area for appropriate tools. Thoughts, ideas, brainstorms... Will