hls30.com

If you have ever watched or actually peeled the hyde offanauga, you'll know the answer... Will

Arp studs,100-7708 are 11.99 Summit Racing Will

Several members here will want to know if she has a sister! Be wary if one of them is named Bill! Will

I don't think most people on ebay fabricate answers, most tell the truth as they know it. A few get "creative" rather than research, even more strictly assume, and then you are left with those who will do or say anything to seel what ever they have. Will

Only in ebay ads... All S30s came with Vinyl Upholstery. Will

Clean and clearcoat. Will

Is that a check book or a billy club in her hand? Seriously, she looks happy to see it coming along! WIll

I don't hate you, but Datsun did make a Roadster-from '63-70! $3500-I can understand... WIll

I am glad this attracts someone enough to spend money on for one reason, Nissan will live on to try again! My opinion is that Nissan knocks one out of the park every third model. They had a serious hit with the S30, another hit(though in an entirely different vein(maybe even the wrong vein) with the Z32), and the latest two line up as the next oopses until there is a serious attempt at an entirely beautiful package. When they start making Zs again that don't look like too much like anything but another Z-with out walking too far from the original story-that's when I'll think about trading dollars for a new Z. My thought is two stories written in Japanese but thirty years apart will share a great number of words, but probably no meaning-unless the moral is the same. The 350Z was advertised to be the current version of the 240Z...tell me it is all you want-we both know better! Hopefully two strikes will get someones attention...but If they came up with something similar to the Ariel Atom but with a complete selection of bolt in/on upgrades(everything not in the shared parts bins(body kits) could be aftermarket.) they would have something-they are already building erector set kit cars-just not selling them at less than completely assembled. Will

Rather than hijack this thread, with your efforts, you should start a new one! Will

The ZX came with an L28 and actually the mount lines up on the L24, L26, L28, L28E, L28ET mountings-I don't know about the L20... That sounds more like a case of it is easier to say "no" than have to explain... It would seem to me that simply turning the assy around could be accommodated with some creative plumbing, and a desire to make it work. It is easy for an un-motivated expert to say anything won't work! I am going to see about an adapter to make the ZX mount work with a Sanden compressor. Will

http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=FEL&MfrPartNumber=VS26070A not stocked in my neck of the woods, but $9 and one day away(ordered before 2pm. Will

I have the bolt on little bracket-it just wasn't with the major portion! Will

Stephen-as usual, you are right! I believe the replacement I got (branded 4seasons) was a Sanden-seems to me the instruction sheet was, and was 280ZX specific, I'll verify that a little later today and clear up any confusion on my part. Will

My bracket is slightly different, but I found that one from a 280ZX is lighter(cast AL.),made for other sanden compressors, and is a genuine Nissan part(11910-p8101)-though way too expensive from the dealer...perfect Pick and Pull part. Will I have a new sanden compressor for the 280zx in another storage laocation, I'll get the number for it(I believe it is a 507), in the meantime, fyi: http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Major_Components/compressors/sanden/conversion_guide.htm http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Major_Components/compressors/sanden/sanden_connector_guide.htm http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Major_Components/compressors/sanden/sanden.asp

I have one of the same mounts in storage, and an idea that I will check into today and post pics of if it works as I hope. Derek, a complete (if ratty) engine compartment in a running car beats and empty engine compartment any day! Will

I used bedliner as a top coat in that area-it is a urethane product, so hopefully it will be non-reactive to tires-or atleast that was my thought. Will

The Dizzys are dramaticly different-the early 280ZXT used a true crank angle sensor, the later ZXTs use a dizzy that amounts to an optical crank angle sensor. a na ecm would not know how to handle the output from a turbo dizzy. Will

Order the club sd and you can find your own part numbers, then you can find compare prices between the dealer and the ebay guys-especially those that use rare, and NLA on every part they bought from the dealer yesterday... Will PS ditto on the vacuum leak-probabaly need top replace all of the small vacuum lines on the Pass side of the engine compartment-they chip away at the connections as they get old and brittle.

She's a pretty girl with an interesting history! What more could you ask for! Will

Sure Tomohawk, If you drop the tank three to four inches you could put the fullsize tub in, but I am not sure having one to two inches of ground clearance at the gas tank would make me want to do it Will

Welcome! We are pretty respectful here until there is a reason not to be. You won't find a better group of helpful people than here-though most of us don't get into heavy modification of our cars(there are exceptions). As Dave(Zbane) said, post some pictures, use the search engine, kick your shoes off, jump right in, and set a spell! Will

Your pic looks like you didn't take the loose rust off-and the POR didn't saturate the area. The order of events that I use are: 1) wash/scrub the area with Marine Clean (I use a scotchbrite sponge to scrub flat areas with and a wire toothbrush for the corners/detail work. 2) Rinse and let dry 3) dampen with Metal Ready(I use a spray bottle and a paper towel to keep vertical areas weted-the paper towel sticks to the surface, and retains the metal ready)and keep wet. Any where I see black specks I scrub with a metal brush/pick. When the area is photoreactive(lightly blued) and no black specks are present, I wipe the area dry, then give it a thorough wipe down with warm water to remove the phosphate. when completely dry I apply POR15. I would rather over prep the area and have no issues than under prep the area and have issues-my first use of POR (on Z doors) had the same peeling you have. Following this procedure, I have had no issues-I have treated areas that are 12 years old that are still rust free and doing fine. As a suggestion, I have been using the POR clear for years, because it actually lets you see the surface to see it the rust is creeping back-no chance of hidden issues sneaking up-like with undercoating... Will

Your links don't work! Photo moved or Deleted... There are many rust eating/converting chemicals Metal Ready, Ospho, Naval Jelly, etc. If it hasn't perferated the sheet metal, I would suggest a rust eating product and then a suitable sealer. Will

My best advice is treat every car like it is a total unknown. Look everywhere. another place that I would especially look at is back into the rear quarters-the corners bordering the area you asked about-frequently the fumes collect in there as well-meaning remove the rear interior trim and get a good look at the entire rear structure from both sides. One note a car that has been garage kept does get brought into the garage from the rain occasionally, and as most garages are not inherently drafty, effectively become a humidity trap for less humid parts of the country if you let a wet car sit in a closed garage for a month... the water will run where it does and sit-the humidity in the garages means it may not dry in the nooks and crannies. Examine the car just like one from the rust belt-no stone unturned(and no assumptions) means no suprises after you get into the project. Less than 50k...with that situation-I would look hard. Or have a well versed local member check it out with a magnet, an articulated mirror, and the needle threading skills! A second set of eyes can never hurt. Will