hls30.com

I am on the third attempt at a menu system-to get it as user friendly and totally indexed is proving seriously time consuming...and life keeps butting in... I believe everything is scanned-I'll suggest an alternative to Mike and see if we can't find away to make the files available... Will

Welcome! Nice find! I vote for restore! These cars regularly get deep into 200K before having serious issues-meaning most owners get tired of them before they wear out! The difference between the chassis and engine mileage sounds fishy, towing a z any real distance requires disconnecting the drive shaft-and that would mean mileage would not accumulate on the odometer... Will

I have cut down springs before too-it works well! The rubber in the insulators isn't profgressive rate, measure the insulator from a 240Z and cut the 280z version to 1 inch longer-done! The measurements are probably in the archives here... WIll

The aftermarket mounting kit is just a flat ABS panel to fit the radio pod and cover the extra space-trim a piece of cardboard as a template and cut one out of plywood, plastic, or sheet metal(brushed aluminum would keep a large part of the stock look). Will

What about using the 280z insulators(shaving as necessary) with aftermatket 240z springs? Eibach ride with original ride height! Will

I tried to call you-and edited your number to keep it bot safe. Here is the part drawing for what you are looking for. Mine had rubber boots over the connections-but looked the same. Just hit up your local autoparts store-what you get may not have a mounting hole, but it will still work like a champ! No need for OEM parts here!

Welcome! With your year criteria you have eliminated the 240Z from your search(1969-1973) and focussed on the 260Z and 280Z. $5k should get you into a nice 280Z, or a good earlier car-depending on what comes up in your time frame...

John, I have a book called "Alternator Secrets" I bought it years ago from Lindsay Publications-I'll see if it has what you need... Will

There are many viewpoints in the archives here, but my 30 plus years of personal experience is that SUs are clearly the superior product. Will

The white palasic tank is the vacuum tank, and the solonoids are to control the vacuum the tank accumulates-in a stock car, these work the doors in the hvac system controlling where the air flows. If you don't have a/c/defrost/heat the dissconnection of these could well be the issue... Will

Still in the works... Will

If you have that bodykit, the spoiler works, if not-find a straight line on the S30 bodywork...meaning your wallet may be happy, but your eyes probably won't be... On any visible part of your car, saving money on a part that isn't exactly what you want always costs more, and means the car will go down to correct result of the "savings" when you realize you had a great idea with a bad implementation. Will

Directions are found here: http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ skip down about 1/3 of the page-hell read the whole thing-you will find all kinds of great infoo! Will

Stephen, You are on it-in 13 ZXs, this was the window problem on 12! Now it is the first thing I check-2 seconds with a continuity tester(a battery, a piece of wire, and a light bulb-or a buzzer! light or noise-keep looking! Will

After seeing an installation on 280Masters car, I bought the new thicker core version of the radiator recommended by Jags That Run V8 ( http://www.jagsthatrun.com/V8-chapters/V8-DatsunZ-Cooling-System.pdf ) for my turbo project because of using a water cooled turbo-and wanting ice coming out of my AC. I have the older thinner radiator they reccommended(from a base model Camero) and stepped up purely as a precaution to deal with the extra heat. Both are Aluminum with plastic tanks, and I plan on installing the Ford 2 speed electric fan as well-even the shroud fits like it was made for the radiator. Will JTR Radiator ........................................$185 JTR Mounting Kit.....................................$85 Can be fabbed w HDepot parts for $25) 2 speed Thermistor control.......................$22 Discount AutoParts Ford 2 speed fan w/shround......................$25 Salvage yard Hose parts-must be fabbed.......................$30 Discount Autoparts

If it is, you are in for a caning!

Lets see E come up with a NIB Matchbox car for this! The "Mary Kay" guidecoat-JK! Will

It sounds like you sent the head to the machine shop without the cam. If you did, there is no way for the machine shop to adjust your valves. Adjusting your valves would more than likely take care of your issue-assuming the turn over you have already done hasn't bent anything. Valve adjustment is done with two wrenches, and stepped(or plain) feeler gage. Will

In looking at the picture of the shroud, I would take the radiator(whether or not it needs to be tanked) out to make your holes for mounting in the right spot. Careful alignment will allow you the best fit, and I would put some weather stripping/a silicone bead around the contact points(let the silicone dry before installation(I would not glue the shroud to the readiator)-fiberglass on metal will ultimately squeek-might as well stop that issue before it starts. Will

To mount the shroud, remove the fan blade from the water pump pulley, mount the shroud-you'll need appropriate fasteners(check the mounts on the radiator-you may use bolts, short sheet metal screws, or short sheet metal screws and speed nuts. Then remount the fan blade...done! Will PS, also pop the top on the radiator and see if it is growing deposits inside-if it is, take it out and have it tanked at a radiator shop, (take the fan blade off as above) and you may well have cured your issue-but put the shroud on anyway.

When you have one area with a problem, don't make three more to cure it...Raising the door is not the best answer... Will

YUP, they were what was available back in the day... Will

It is what it is, As Ron says, "two Rons don't make a right"(is it just me or does that sound like something that could be in an early FSM) and with all of the errors Nissan made, they managed to make a great car we all enjoy, pamper, work on, photograph, write about, joined this club to share information about, and drive-everything else was just part of the journey to get here. The bumps make you appreciate the smooth parts of the road(much like an ex-wife), the Rapscallions(Albert Goertz) teach you to trust but verify, the Experts teach you that we all know something, and if it was all the same thing we(they) would have nothing to talk about or more importantly to learn, and the cars teach you we all have something we can agree on-the Z in the garage or on the curb still makes us smile after close to 40 years. Will PS, used Parts are Zs...

We have several threads in the archives here about its easy answers and lack of stock examples of Zs as well... Will

TomoHawk, That area is a normal "slack" area-most Zs I have seen have that issue until an owner takes issue with it and corrects it. Before your next re-paint sand the surface clean and fit and weld a section of metal coathanger to the door-make the gap uniform by grinding the coathanger, sand it flush to the surface of the door, and add a touch of filler if needed, then continue with the repaint, and your gap is uniform...no more lost points, and no more Muscle head issues! Will