hls30.com

I have always used one of the feeler gage blades that I don't need. I use a stepped feeler gage, and only need the 8/10 and the 10/12, so the rest are protection for those two, I figure, might as well use the rest for something! insert behind the emblem(cover the edges of the blade with a layer of painters tape to protect the paint, and pull her off! WIll

While not what I would want in the same hemisphere, not the worst I have seen-there is a Catepillar yellow one with a bulldozer front end for a snowplo-air dam. I think it is Australia.... Will

I resemble that remark profusely! Will

Stephen, I'm not sure if your Q was at me, but the dealer has never charged me shipping... Will

Wow, I swear I haven't been drinking! Looks like the wobbly fingers have struck again! Maybe I would be better off turning on the voice recognition software... Will

Be sure to ask about a discount, I can get them for around $48 at my local dealer(the parts manager is a member of out local Z club, and gives members a healthy discount). Will

They are showing still available from the dealer retailing at $68.35 and coming with the pin. Will

You need to look at the engine block-right where it meets the head on the spark plug side, the sive and type of enfine will be stamped into machined flats in this area. Will

All 240Zs came with dual carbs-licensed Sus. If yours are in good shape, a tuneup will answer your question with a smile, if not, send the carbs to Ztherapy for either a body exchange or full rebuild, and the smile will be forthcoming! Will PS no noo nooo single carbs bad. dual carbs good, tripples with cam upgrades and more better(no tripples without changing a cam or more internals)!

Nos versions go for around $500 plus s&H Will

Sounds like an aftermarket ignition was added and either the tach wiring was not modified for it, or it was not replaced with a later tach. There is a tech article around here from Bambikiller240Z on this... Will

The third one is an factory resistor I believe it is part of the flasher circuit-if you take it out and the blinkers don't flash...put it back Will PS, I would replace the cut up wiring with oem parts so that the factory troubleshooting guides work and are followable. Most of the cut up parts are available at the pick and pull, if you have trouble finding them in your area, I am sure some members(myself included ) would help you find the appropriate pieces as we visit the yards...I probably have most of that in my collection of 280Z parts... Will

Welcome to the club! There are a ton of people with massive doses of Z knowledge here! The best starting places are searching the threads here, and And Tom Monroes book on Amazon Rebuild your Nissan OHC engine http://www.amazon.com/dp/1931128030?tag=hls30com-20&camp=14573&creative=327641&linkCode=as1&creativeASIN=1931128030&adid=0VV0FDM1Q6E373RZ2JNN& Wick Humbles Book on Amazon Rebuild your Datsun Z http://www.amazon.com/dp/1931128022?tag=hls30com-20&camp=14573&creative=327641&linkCode=as1&creativeASIN=1931128022&adid=1FYAVP6WBSX6QA0D7HPP& A Factory Service Manual (FSM) wouldn't hurt either! Will PS post pictures when you get the chance!

Every time Carls Car-it gets prettier! I can say the same thing for Rogers cars too, and Franks too-must be in the water! Will

Welcome, congratulations! The hairdryer looking thing is a cooling fan for the injection plumbing. Will

THe cars typically go 200k plus with proper care and maintenance. The 280z is less finicky than a carbed z, and I would think it would do just fine. I drove Zs for daily drivers for most of the last 25 years, other than brakes, a couple of half shafts, the odd starter and alternator, shocks and an exhaust stud, nothing but typical maintenance-except upgrades! Just have a Z familiar mechanic go through the Z before you put it in daily service to be sure nothing (belts, hoses, fluids, tires, bushings, etc) has deteriorated from sitting(30k in 31 years-the car has done some sitting). Will

It was because my sign up pointed out an issue with signing up:stupid:! They refunded $10:laugh:. Stephen, you are special, but not the a special-I mean not wanting to be Bills neighbor...reallyROFL! Will

Welcome to the club!!! Please post some pictures when you get the chance! I think you mean series 1 or series 2. Quoted from Carl Beck as posted at www. zhome.com/History/1970or1971.html "There Are Four Series Of Datsun 240Z's. THE SERIES I 240Z's - Produced from Oct. of 1969 through Dec. of 1970. They are identified by the fresh air exhaust vents located on the rear hatch. (some of these cars were also produced in the first few weeks of Jan. 1971 during the transition period) They have plastic covers for tools and jack located behind the seats, steering wheels with indents, rather than holes. The Series I 240Z's were sold and titled as 1969, 1970 and 1971 Model Year Cars here in the U.S. and North American Markets. (as they complied with all U.S. Emissions and Safety standards in effect for those years. There was not much change in the standards for those years.) Cars that arrived at the U.S. Ports after Sept. 1 1970, could legally be, and were, sold as 1971 Model Year Cars. (they could also have been, and were, legally sold as 1970 Model Year Cars! - however very few of them were, due to the price increase on the 1971 Model Year cars. ). THE SERIES II 240Z's were produced from Jan. 1971 through Aug. of 1971. They are identified by the fresh air exhaust vents relocated to the side or "C" pillar of the car, from their prior position on the rear deck lid. The tools and jack were re-located to pockets in the rear deck area and the steering wheels have holes, where the indents were on the Series I cars. These cars were also sold as 1971 Model Year Cars here in the U.S....So both Series I and Series II Z Cars were sold as 1971 Model Year cars. THE SERIES III 240Z's were produced from Aug. 1971 through Sept. of 1972. These cars are identified by the re-designed center console with the ash try behind the shift lever (because of the use of the newer "B" style transmissions, cig. lighter moved to the dash. These cars were all sold as 1972 Model Year cars, because they complied with the 1972 Safety and Emissions standards only. THE SERIES IV 240Z's were produced from Sept. of 1972 through Sept. of 1973. They can be identified by the 2.5 MPH bumpers which extended away from the body, and had larger bumper over-riders. Also all 1973 model year cars had VIN#'s beginning with HLS30 120xxx as major changes to the emissions and safety laws took place in 73. So the "actual" answer to the questions, "What Year Is My Z?" or "Is My 240Z a 70 or 71?" is actually determined on the Series I cars, by how the Request For Title was filed by the selling dealer, supported by the original Manufactures Statement of Origin (MSO) and the date of Delivery to the Authorized Dealer. The answer to these questions, as it relates to the Series III and Series IV cars, was determined by compliance with the changing emissions and safety standards for 1972 and 1973 Model Years cars. So all series II cars were sold as 1971 Model Year cars (because they were produced after Jan.1, 1971). All series III cars were by law (Federal) sold as 1972 Model Year 240Z's and all Series IV cars were sold as 1973 Model Year cars. Some Interesting Facts and Figures: It would appear from our records so far, and supported by the research of others, that approximately 10,000 Series I 240Z's were imported and sold as 1970 Model Year cars. The remainder of the 19,000+ units were sold/titled as 1971 Model Year cars. Z Car HLS30 11618 is the latest VIN that we have found which was sold and titled as a 1970 Model Year car (built date 10/70 and Sold/Delivered 12/70) Z Car HLS30 05504 (build date 06/70 and Sold/Delivered 08/70) is the earliest car found so far that was sold/titled as a 1971 Model Year Car. You can see that there is an overlap in the build dates and VIN's of the first two "Model Years", however for the most part, cars built on or after 09/70, with VIN numbers above HLS30 010031, were sold as 1971 Model Year cars. Is a 1970 240Z more collectable than a 1971 240Z? As not too many people are fully aware that there are two "Series" involved in the 1971 Model Year cars, for the most part, the answer to that question is YES at the present time. As the Model Year limits the quantity available, the 1970 240Z's will retain more of their value, and will be easier to re-sell over the short term. (three to five years) However, if the Z Cars follow the patterns established by other imported collectibles, then the Series I cars will, as a group, be recognized as the Original Z design... and for the most part the Model Year under which it was titled, will not matter as much as it does today. " Will

ZTherapy, your car will thank you every time you turn the key. Will

I signed up-$20 for US subscription 4issues a year...Hopefully between it and Nissan Sport, we will get even more great Z Coverage. Be sure to send in Z pics from every local show-they can't include it if they don't have it! Will

Given what needs to be done, That seems way to high to me-about twice what I would expect. Sblake is the resident AC tech, I am sure he will chime in... WIll

Beaufort SC perhaps? Will

Must be from the St. Pete Speed show?

You guys! Buy a can of spray liquid electrical tape! Wipe each wire down with a clean rag soaked in alcohol-reusing the rag means you will probably have adhesion problems if silicone or any Vinyl dressing has ever touched the wires. Tape up the connections and hang the wires with a little weight on them. Shoot them with the liquid electrical tape and you have nice black high performance wires! Several thin coats works best and unless you have silicone wires, or didn't clean them properly, you won't have any adhesion problems no matter how you flex them. If your wires are silicone, you can still change the color, but only silicone will stick to silicone-meaning it will be a messy and slow process. buying a tube of RTV silicone adhesive caulk works, but you have to roll the wire to get a good finish-it takes several coats, and fortunately, you will get better at the skill involved on each coat. Still it is easier to buy a different color that to change, but if you like Magnacores, but hate the color, what do you do? This! Will