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I have not, but I know it has been done. Will

I understand the geometry of your answer, but, If the bar is deflected(harder to get on the freaking link), would that not be evidence that it has been preloaded? More work required to get it where it was(but an inch further) means something had to change-unless I have misunderstood Newtons third law-or applied it incorrectly. If nothing else changed, same bar, same mounts, same car-only new bushings-what am I missing? I will go back and check every inch for binding or something misplaced acting as a pivot. Will

I have had several hoods shipped via Greyhound-even one from California where buses are know to contain chemicals that... Unless it is packed and supported well, don't expect it to come though dent free, the bus loaders toss baggage and other items in how ever tight they can-not the it will be destroyed, but expect it to have some dents it didnt have. I had the last one crated with 2x4s and melamine-the box was damaged, but the hood came out ready to install. $50 for crating was cheeper than two hours of hammer and dolly work! Will

If the sealer is still wet, put the air hose to it, if not, put the tank in the back of the truck and have it done. I have tried filling the tank up with water & co2-not nearly as easy as it sounds-and welding. No explosion, but no success either. Save yourself the 2 to 3 hours of immensely heightened stress from the nervousness and anxiety-get it done by a shop that has been there enough times to know what to do comfortably. Will

You have it right, The tierods are readily available-any national chain, most local mom and pops, MSA, VB, ebay.... I used a pickle fork to get mine apart(cheep tool), but there are specialty tools available as well. Will

Carl, That could be. What really made me question is the fact you can buy just the bushings, or the bushings and the links(the bushings in either case are the same). either way must be acceptable-I guess an email to energy suspensions couldn't hurt. Will

Getting the pool would not be the problem, keeping the neighbor hood kids out would be. Seriously when you get ready to change the fluid, or move the pool, what do you do with the leftovers-it will be caustic from all of the removed solids, and the chemical breakdown of the original mix-if it never changed chemically, you would never need to freshen or replace it, and you will. Look at how the fluid has changed with the few parts you have done already. A gallon or two won't get noticed in a storm drain-not that I am saying that is where to put it. But a couple of hundred gallons would interest your city/county/state government, and make you a target for anything else you did that the neighbors missunderstood/didn't like, one call that's all. Will

Thanks for the article, but the reason for the differences actually has nothing to do with the old bushings, one of the pictures inthe article you provided the link for shows that the difference is due to the spacer (provided by Energy Suspensions) is not as long as the distance between the shoulders on the factory piece. I have used Urethane bushings before-the single kit did not come with new hardware, only bushings, and that is the real reason for my question. Will

I was looking at the swaybar links that came with my Energy Suspensions Urethane kit, and noticed that the distance between the washers is greater than the factory pieces. This looks like it would effectively pre-load the swaybar. Any thoughts? I cleaned up a set of factory links, so I could use them instead of those supplied with the kit. I am at a quandry over which would be better to use, authentic pieces or third party. Will

OOPs! Will

I have used walnut shells for all lubricated parts for years, never though about using them anywhere else, HMMMM! 26th, I look folward to your article, and I am sure there is more in your process than I know about. My only consergn with stripping all of the metal is: Here in the South, unless you are doing to dip the car in a galvanizing bath or come other coating after its caustic/electric bath, every time you open the door, humidity will be inside the car, and every temperature change will cause condensation, meaning there is water on the inside sheet metal. Granted, that may not be a large problem, but it is still a worry to me, that is why I am stripping the outside, and spot treating on the inside. Your chosen path will absolutely beat mine on getting rid of existing rust, but my consergn is also not creating more places for attack-but my car will be driven every day, and probably sometimes see the inside of a carport, not a garage-except on rare occasions. Will

But, look what it did to your car! After cleaning, it is plaiting, only backwards! brilliant! Will

See, I practice what I preach-maybe one day all off the practice will have made a difference :laugh: . Carl, Aint you a little stinker-not by the size of the tatoo! Michael really did invite me, so I guess I am his fault...yea, yea, that's the ticket. Will

We have come a long way from Henry Ford and his perception of color. Personally the happiness of the owner with the color is the most important to me. WIll

I was had been a ghost on all of the Z and roadster sites for years, and was cordially invited to become a member of this one by MPerdue. I liked what I read and actually started jumping in. I don't think beating people up for opposing views(or colors) or trying to ram them down someone elses throat makes makes for a good and healthy forum. I do think poking some fun once in a while helps to add enjoyment, but unless you are willing to make yourself a target, don't make anyone else one. Will

I am 41, decidedly not in the best shape of my life, and if people want to paint their cars the same color as my sons last diaper-more power to em! It will just make my dark blue metalic show off my chrome that much better! Kinda like Rodney Dangerfields advice in Back to School, "If you want to look thin, hang out with fat people!" I am getting older, but that beats the alternative! Thought for the day: If heaven is the satisfaction of all of our dreams not ruled out by the ten commandments, there will be only roads that we own, Zs that we respect, and nothing to spoil the drive! (Read nothing our gas pedal foot can't handle!) Admiring is NOT the same thing as covetting! Will

boohaahaaahaaaaa! Have you forgotten, we have all seen you in the pimp outfit-especially that hat! Innoscent-hahhahahahhhahhahhahahahaaa! that's a good one, you slay me Bill! Your "Duck" story kind of stopped that mistake cold!!! Will

I think the worst drivers are the ones who know they are disobeying the trafic laws-IE, Coming down the middle(go straight) lane of an off ramp and turning because the turn lane is backed up, but the straight lane place them able to turn 2 car lengths ahead of the next car in the turn lane. That type of person does respect anyone else, and thinks anything he does not get caught doing is just fine. A mistake, even not paying attention is one thing, but purposfully and blatenetly disrespecting others means he does this at every chance, and more probably in every aspect of his life. I wonder how hard a 30cal would be to fit in a frame rail? WIll

They'll ony be worth more if I'm not the one doing the buying! I would not buy one that well kept to drive, I at this point in my life, I wouldn't buy one to put up for any purpose but to have a good starting point later-unless the price was right Of cours putting a non authentic part will work in a pinch for anyone, replacing it later with the "right piece" is the part that makes most of us fall away.. Will

Alright Bryan, she does not want any candy... Will

Tickets aren't the money, the change in your insurance rates is the money, and that lasts at least 3 years. At 18, I had a heavier foot, and the cops didn't give out warnings to a teenage male alone at 4am in a sportscar passing everything that was flying low. 176 miles through 2 large towns and 9 small ones, none with a citywide speed limit above 35, in just under 2 hours, you do the math, and realize that when I got to a town, I did slow down. But what he ment was going faster costs more money in equipment. Will

You need to find out if it rings or valves, or both, and address the real problem. Once you know what it is(the FSM addresses how to tell the difference-it is probably covered in the archives here as well) you can choose to have the problem corrected with your existing parts if possable, or search for used parts without the problem. Addressing the webbers will need to be done, but unless a part came loose from them and fell in #2, they are not the source of this problem. Rebuilt them, but fix the other situation first(or at the same time). Rebuild kits are more expensive and harder to locate than the su kits, and not as well doccuments(ZTherapy has a gret SU video), but are available. Will

Come on Bill what you really want is a full size poster of racegirl-but then who wouldn't! Will

I have thought of that too-even made up some centrifigal casting equipment, and checking in to chrome plateing the plastic trim. For what I want, and the difference in costvs longevity, real metal is the only way to go. Could you post or pm some pictures of yours? I have been experimenting with some white metal, and have ordered some thinner stainless to try again with. The lens molds are still not finished. Will

You figure at least $700 for each turbo(conservatively), at least $3,000 for all of the custom tubing and polish, $7,800 for an additinal 500hp(over the stock engine output) Someone is addicted to polished aluminum Will