hls30.com

Do you remember this, owl! ...gotta roll your tongue on that three...and put on some glasses...

I have only seen a couple of cars that started life as Zs that are so far off the mark I don't want them claiming to be related to mine-my only problem with them is that I can't Un-see them-Tomohawk!.

DOn't wait on me-I made the opposite stalk in 2004-and sat on the project when the production cost was too high for 100 mirrors... I finally found a mate for a single Japanese mirror(somewhat similar to the Talbots-I have a set of those for my Alpha 1 GTO Rebody-I had been hunting years for, and had both chromed-they were originally painted body color-I have yet to polish out the stainless, finish off the trim ring, and reassemble, but they have an articulating stalk, and a seriously adjustable mirror head, and will work as fender or door mirrors. Carl, I played with the electronic mirrors on the 240Z and the vert, but think it is too much of a culture shock to do away with door mirrors altogether-I originally tried it with the Wink rearview racing mirrors back in the day, and it was just too much of a change to the exterior for me. I looked at it again with an Allview in the vert-same issue.

The right mirror should be a reflection of the left for side to side symmetry-there is enough articulation in the original flag joint to make the mirror useable-in my prototyping the convex mirror made the usability difference-but wasn't that noticeable from anywhere but the drivers seat.

Bill, No, Dean used a lefty to make a mold for a righty-but as I examined early on, he made an ambidextrous model instead-that may not be what he ended up with-from the sound of Tlorbers' post. .

Here is one, showed up in my driveway about an hour ago-took her out to warm her tires too! Not mine, but I was involved in getting her where she is now...she is headed to Atlanta. The pictures do not do her even close to justice!

Here are a couple of our past threads on this-I spoke with Dean about it shortly after the 2005 thread, pointed him to the thread, and the rest is history. I still have my original work on this, and may well have to finish it-with a convex lens... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread17716.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread18525.html see post #12

The winking at every turn reminds me of George Burns...and the guy who played him in 18again...

His is special because it is his, just like yours is special because it is yours, but Everyone knows Mine is clearly the superior Z.It is without a doubt and obvious to everyone who sees it that isn't a complete and totally blind moronic stooge butt wipe that she is the best Z in the entirety of the face of the slab of concrete that floors my garage! I am proud of her too, but I am not interested in forcing my opinion of my Z on anyone else, when I can enjoy their perfect Zs too!

Seam sealer goes in after the floors are welded in-you can use weld through primer before, but I have always welded in the floors bare, flushed the seams thoroughly with mineral spritits then after it had completely dried, flowed Ospho/MetalReady/through them to etch them rinsed again with laquer thinner, and flowed them with POR15 or Rustoeleum, then seam sealed once dry. I hate rust.

A couple of other things I should have addressed: 1) Ebay can be a great source of parts-but you either verify the sellers claims or you accept them as true...most of the sellers are actually resellers-if you don't see a part number-that is a pretty good indication they know their prices are higher than a simple search would find...If you see new packaging, and no part number....they are ordering at their local dealer and selling to those who have not done and probably will not do any due diligence-They are banking that you value convenience more than savings-that choice is up to you once you know it can be made. Using my club CD, I usually check price and availability of part numbers at www.CourtesyParts.com(don't forget to add shipping charges), and My local Dealer-via email. Between them I can get an immediate approximate price, and a verified availability. Buying truly rare parts is a different story-those that have them are not afraid for you to verify their claims-they furnish correct part numbers, and know what research will turn up-they make it easy to verify what they tell you. They know what A parts search will turn up, a few online dealer parts/price list Macros will lead you to believe the parts are available and inexpensive because they are not connected to actual inventory, but only a part number list with the price a part was last sold at-even if it was 35 years ago. Some companies are actually interested in giving you at least some idea that just because a part number in the list at its last available price does not mean it is actually available for sale at any price. When you are in doubt, try to order it-rare parts will come back as a cancelled order due to being unavailable, sometimes you will get a follow up call to explain that just because you were allowed to order the part, does not mean the company has a legal obligation to supply it at its listed price-or any other. 2) The choke lever was made to be replaced-it mounts with a slot and a set screw. The disk in question was glued on On a $10 (back in the day)cosmetic part, it only makes sense they would expect you to buy the assembly for parts that are fused together.

The rear suspension changed, notably the thickness of the strut insulators-but as a complete assy the rear suspensions are interchangeable-at some point the interior pieces are not interchangeable-I can't remember exactly how the false floor in some of the later 280Z affected that, but I would think that a strut bar would fit all coupes 69-78 with the 2+2 being different.

While I would be polite in bringing this serious flaw in a paint job to the painters attention-is this guy a professional or is this his first car...I would be livid to find that after three years of waiting, form a shop that is at least 3 years old... The painter should be embarrassed that he allowed that out of his shop as a completed job, and all over himself to make it right-and keep it quiet. That is a shade tree-rookie mistake, not something any person who considers himself a professional would ever want associated with his shop and proved by a receipt or cancelled check.

I looked at those a couple of years ago, and sent him pictures of the wax I had carved-he said these were Genuine Nissan Mirrors with no slant to the base.. I passed because 1) it was not a reverse of the left side and 2) the glass is flat, I am sure a pair of these $167 mirrors would look great on a Z, but when I considered that: 1) Adding one will give me the same thing as taking the left and putting it on the right(two mirrors that are not actually a reversed pair, but two different-but similar Mirrors-granted with the stalks at a closer but not complementary angle) (The fact that the left and this one are obviously not a matched pair will be obvious from the front and rear of the car.) and 2) In putting a small flat mirror five or six feet away, the field of view it reflects is seriously smaller-better than nothing-not quite as bad as fender mirrors-but not good enough for me at $175ish with shipping. He also(understandably) declined to give me the part number to verify that they were actually Genuine Nissan parts.

I looked into making identical replacements of the original and early caps-the current ones are not as the original part was, and are made cheaper. The die is the expensive piece-not worth it for making less than 100 hundred parts...that someone expects to pay $5 for...making something that would be presentable and similar is much cheaper, but not something I think most here would want. Printing a round sticker on a laser printer and putting a plastic button top on it sounds like it would be acceptable to you and be presentable. Here in the US, the shift pattern was a USDOT requirement and putting it on the knob ment the major parts of the interior did not have to be changed to accommodate it-something Nissan did in the some of the Datsun Roadsters.

Steve, For the last 15 years, I have applied pads to the glass(not the louvers) and found that that application stops from sand/grit grinding the glass-it works. Historically Applying the pads to the aluminum allows the pads to catch sand/grit and hold it against the glass, ultimately grinding it into the glass. In addition, there is usually a plastic door edge protector type insulator on the inner edge of each of the horizontal blades-this stuff also catches sand against the glass and ultimately grinds the glass through time too. I use a hole punch to make Neoprene dots and attach them to the glass at the contact points, easily removable/replaceable, do not catch sand nor hold it against the glass, and are small enough so as to be unobtrusive. If you can't find any, PM me your address and I will send you an envelope sized sheet-in an envelope! Will Bill, Installing window tint is EASY!

Have you really looked? Courtesy Nissan sells them all day every day for $54! I can't imagine $90 for shipping...even to the Great White North, Aye! http://www.courtesyparts.com/shift-knob-wood-speed-1970-1973-240z-p-569014.html?cPath=7724_7760

You are mistaking a marketing effort with an effort to honor. The definition of honoring something is necessarily narrow-it is only opened up by someone who wants to benefit from-not honor-someone elses work. This thing called copywrite, the other thing call plagiarism, and yet this third thing called patent infringement...they are not to protect from being honored. That's part of what licensing covers, you don't really believe that Kid Rock wa out to honor Lynnyrd Skynnyrd do you? He was out to capitalize on their fan base and sell records-the honor business was there to help the marketing plan...Weird AL Yankovic is not out to honor any one, he is unabashedly out to sell records too. The Mona Lisa is every bit as inanimate as a Zcar, and my example still holds. Peter Brock has something to say about tribute cars...and it isn't because he feel honored by them... If a modified work falls outside of the law that protects it, what choice does the original artist have...if you can't beat them, join them and come up with a way to profit from their modification of your work...

I opened a can of worms looking for passionate answers, there are some here, there are some that have not been posted that I was hoping would be. I take interest in what makes us different and the same at the same time-the differences are sometimes seen as the source of the greatest passion, but i think the similarities are actually, but I like to identify and understand the reasons behind the passion. I don't see any reason a bone stock Z can't sit beside a highly modified Z with everything between all around them-I will take a look at and photograph all of them-I enjoy all Zs and their variations-look in my gallery-from the most ungainly rustbucked to gold medallion winners, I like them all-but my favorite is the one in my garage, and it is no better or worse than any one elses, it is just different.

Agreed upon insurance is something between you and your insurance company-if the car is totaled-your insurance company will make good on it-not necessarily the insurance company of the at fault party, meaning that stated value is only an indication of what you are willing to pay for insurance to cover replacing the car, not what a perspective buyer would pay for the car-as I recall in another thread, you were pointed out as thinking you paid too much for the car...probably a good bit less than the coverage of your stated value insurance-meaning you knew that was trash before you typed it. I have stated value on mint as well-to cover the cost of replacement, not the value of an open market sale-ask your insurance agent, that is exactly what he will tell you that replacement cost is exactly what stated value insurance is for. If you still are not convinced. read your policy they will not pay you the difference between what you can sell it undamaged for and what you have it insured for.

Take a step back, can I honor a woman by cutting her up and adding silicone-no that's called changing to suit-arguably making her better absolutely making her different. Honoring means embracing something as it is, not changing it. To use your example, would an artist hinor the Mona Lisa by put his girlfriendss face on it? No he would paint a copy and do that-so as not to dishonor the Mona Lisa. A derivative work is not the same as the original work-in a derivative you are repurposing something old to make something new that shows off the skill of the latest artist not something to highlight the work of the original one. An artist in awe stands and does not touch what he is in awe of.