hls30.com

Last time I checked they were still available from the dealer, I have a local club member who needs a set as well, I'll check tomorrow, and post the part number and dealer availability. Will

The kits everyone sells are made by dashtops.com. If you are buying all of the pieces, get them direct-you'll get a healthy discount below what they are available anywhere else for-and that will save you some serious money for beer and pizza for helpers, gawkers, or cheerleaders! Give them a call for the best price, they can paint the parts(Henry Fords color as made) or you can get three cans of matching appropriately colored SEM paint, a quart of Laquer thinner, wipe them down and shoot them yourself. Shooting yourself means all pieces cam match perfectly-and even parts that are NLA can be colorized. Will

39 year old wire isn't usually the issue, the issue is what chemicals have reacted to the exposed connections in the last 39 years. As long as the wires are not boogered up, they should be fine, the common issues with wiring result from corroded connections, and the higher current draw they cause. Removing the crimp connectors, cleaning both the wire and the connector, and using solder is really the key to an issue free harness. To clean, I use Deoxit, NO ABRAISIVES-they simply grind the corrosion into the metal meaning you will have a worse problem later. Media blasting rusted steel does remove rust scale, but treat it with phosphoric acid after media blasting and you have a seriously clean base. Normally I remove the connectors from the hood and then from the individual wire one at a time, clean up the hood with 409, the wire and the connector with De-oxit, add some flux to the connector, recrimp it to the wire, then add sufficient heat from a clean soldering iron and some silver solder, and reassemble. Before I plug the corrected harness back in, I normally strip the wrap from it and rewrap it with 3M super 33 electrical tape, cleaning and reusing the white identification tags held on by the wrap, then I give both sides of each hood a shot of De-oxit lube to keep them protected. Add to that some inline relays (extremly well made by a member here!) to remove the high current from the switches(headlights, taillights, etc...), and you should have a great harness without reinventing the wheel, or changing color codes! Will PS apply the same tactics to the fuse box as well. I dissassemble the fuse box and flux and solder the rivetted connections as well-the connections are only as strong as the weakest one...

They are interchangeable-depending on the needles. We had a thread on damper oil recently-I don't remember the details other than two proper and easy to find oils were mentioned. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35474&highlight=oil WIll

While I agree all buyers should find out all costs before bidding, and should not bid if they can't, I also believe a seller should be upfront about the costs that are a part of every transaction. I don't see anything I have said as bad mouthing. I am going bald-to some that is a horribly mean thing to say, to me it is simply the truth. Getting you up in the middle of the night to get dressed, find your keys, verify your tools, and head out at a moments notice is not Nearly the same thing as getting together 10 small items ready to ship out per day that you set up to sell a week to ten days before, and can do from the comfort of your own home, in your PJs-or less-. I would expect to pay a premium for emergency service. I don't think anyone(else) would ever expect to pay a premium price for a standard shipping service. Every buyer should beware, and find out, the reason that sellers like this use these tactics is that the lazy and uninformed do not! Part of learning about Z cars is learning how to (and not to) buy parts-in addition to what to do with them once bought. Will

Here are my thoughts on RedDat. 1) Virtually everything he sells as new(that actually is) is available from a dealer for less. Many of the parts he sells as Datsun parts as "a must for your restoration" are not even Datsun parts-he obviously has either no clue what a restoration is, or he does not care. Selling a BWM gas cap as "a must for your Z car restoration" tells me just how knowledgeable or honest he is. Add to that he includes only partial part numbers and it is pretty easy to see he is far more interested in selling than being honest. 2) Gouging on hidden shipping costs tells me he is not interested in being honest or upfront. Considering that the USPS will deliver free priority mail supplies and pick up the packages that they are used for for free, he is either ignorant or dishonest. (dishonest if he is claiming labor that is not in question when defending his shipping charges) 3) Both of these tell me he is an opportunity seller-Most of his auctions are for the Lazy and the uninformed. My opinion of what a vendor should be is Honest to a fault. If you are set up to sell a parts to a lazy or uninformed person, that is fine-as long as you don't misrepresent the parts. Mike B posted a great and seriously inexpensive source (for everyone who is willing to hunt a part number)for those OEM Datsun parts that are still available, unless you are too lazy or haven't yet bought a club CD, why would RedDat even enter into the equation? Will PS, Ebay has a rule about excessive shipping charges-I don't hesitate to remind sellers of that, and or to Ebay to look at how reasonable they are...and with the new feedback system, it is a double whammy to the seller-be honest and forthright, or your ebay fees go up and/or you auctions will be asked to leave ebay!

And you are a happy man! I bet you were a rum running pirate in a previous life! Captian Chis! Captian of the dreaded double gunned Frigate, HMS TwinZ Taken from the previous owner Butt McKrack at the tip of a properly plated hood stay. Currently in drydock undergoing thorough modification for her new Captian! Her ships registry changed, from ZMecca, Fl to The Tricky Garage, Fl! Will

Stephen, You and Carl hit it! I am afraid to(afraid not to) find some Z32 parts in the turn ins, and I am looking for some specific parts from a Mitsubishi 3000GT VR. I don't think anyone is under the delusion that every tax paying citizen is not helping to pay for this, but buying parts helps make it more effective, by adding some tax income(no matter how small-in addition to the salvage weight) from the reverse flow), and some economic stimulus to the salvage industry-I wonder if it will lower the value of these program cars on Sadisco/CoPart/insurance auctions. Will

Now hold on a minute, $50 buys a whole lot of sweet tea! I hardly drink alcohol, a margarita, a Pinnacollada, or a long island ice tea every once in while...but I can still count on one hand the drinks I have had in the last two years(course after a drink or two I seem to grow more fingers...hic! I doubt in that two years I have spent $50 on drinks-it is good to have friends who buy them for you-and a free bar at the convention!!! SO who all is coming to the show? Will

Chris, You know me, I'd travel anyway, but I think inviting the population to the car show would get more mileage from the event and continually add to the group! I know they aren't the same, but my point is, in terms of only the car show timing, and the specific mission of the ZCCA I mentioned, they should be. Think about it, we have the most powerfully and passionately infected group of Z enthusiasts/owners in the USA(and many further out) in one place and we aren't allowing them to infect others with Zitus! That impressive group would certianly be grounds for a very strong and memorable initiation into the world of Z. I guess when you really get down to it, I would have gotten involved at least 10 years before I did if I had known, and I just hate to think that a such a simple change made to the scheduling of the car show could enable more people to get so much enjoyment and no one has been willing to make the change... Will

What are you going to do to benefit from the Cash for Clunkers program? I am not trading in a car, but I did call all of my locla dealers to see where they are sending the cars that do get turned in, and the schedule for pickup! That way I can spot any Zs before they are towed to oblivion and beyond. knowing what was turned in and where it is going will give me a leg up for getting the best parts off of what gets turned in! I don't expect to see any Zs, but the Z shares parts with several other Datsuns, so hopefully in making the rounds, I will run across some good parts! Will

That explains an awful lot, the car show isn't about the cars, or the people who could see the show and get interested in Zs-and become members, it's about those that travel to every convention... Hmmm, I thought the ZCCA Mission stated that the ZCCA is to give "Assistance on a combined level to help form new Clubs and help current Clubs grow" Q) How do you grow any car club? Easy A) Develop and support enthusiasm for the cars through exposure and continued efforts-making seeing them easy is the first step!!! Every Carlisle show centers on a weekend-All NAIAS and larger shows encompass two weekends to maximize their draw-true they are open during the week, but the mass attendance has proven to be on the weekends. The Amelia Island Concours, The Pebble Beach Concours, Hilton Head Island Concors, Speedshow, Every local and regional carshow I could find is on a weekend. Seems to me these guys know the time for exposure and participation is on the weekend! Calling in the media to publicize a Tuesday show sounds admirable, but it has been a waste of effort-I attended Daytona and Cleveland-I was told by several people the Media was invited and PSAs were sent out well in advance-how many people were there that were not already part of the convention-let me put that another way-how many opportunities for local Z club growth did the show generate? In a word, NADA. Not the car guide, the goose egg! I'll be at San Antonio and I am pretty sure I'll see the same thing...through no fault of those that are working so hard to make the show its best! Use the same effort to advertise a weekend show, and wow, people show up and get interested! How can you tell? They look; they interact; they buy tshirts, consessions, and more! Some of the people who come develop a lasting interest in the cars, and the people already interested in them! Kind of tought to develop interest, sell stuff, and offer membership to people who ain't gonna show up on a Tuesday! These shows are the greatest single resource for membership growth, in terms of ZCCA involvement, and they are effectively private parties because of their scheduling. I never learned to wash my daily driver right before it rains on purpose. If the show isn't about building enthusiasm, interest, and membership, what is it about... Will PS, This is not a critisism of the ZCCA convention or the monumental effort it takes to host it. This is only something to think about for the few people in the ZCCA who could actually change the car show date for the subsequent shows to make the efforts of those who work so hard at the local level more effective on helping to grow their club and the ZCCA.

Ok, I'd ask how you got in my garage, but since you organized it... Will

I hate to say it, but, Unless you know someone local who is interested, you are likely to get more for the carbs than the entire engine/tranny. Your assembly won't be numbers matching to anyone elses, and an L28 and a 5speed starts looking pretty good when given an opportunity to upgrade... Ebay is full of unsold used L24 engines, more often than not, you can't even give them away. Will

Way cool! Will

Ok, The first section of the part number is to indicate fitment, the second section is actual part given that fitament. Your '74 parts book was right in '74, since then, there have been umpteen revisions to the parts lists it illustrates, caused by consolidation of similar parts, loss vendors, and to make matters worse, the latest part number is what makes it into the latest parts listing, meaning a superseded part only lists its closest predecessor, and not the however many there have been for the original part number. If you use Nissan Fast to look up your part numbers(the USA version or the Japanese versions anyway), it will normally list the entire supercession chain-most parts people will not share that with you by default, but it is there. Older listings will only show what was current at the time it was published. I have several version of the parts catalogs, and this is just the way it is...which is why I have collected several of the carts catalogs, Microfiche, and software, sometimes a partnumber has to be found by exploring several layers of Nissan part numbers. Will

Every New to me Z I get goes through this first oil change-looks like Gary and I are of the same opinion. 1) Change the oil with Shell Rotella 20w50 and a new filter 2) drain the gas tank-if what came out was essentially clean, pour in 2-3 gallons of new gas, pull drive to the gas station, empty a can of carbureator and choke cleaner(or seafoam-but the carb cleaner will not make the horrific smoke the seafoam will) into the tank, and fill it up. 3) drive home-check the oil! 3) Flush the radiator 4) Drive the car carefully and daily, for at least the first 500 miles, checking the oil every time the car gets back home-you are looking for massively dirty oil-add more Carb cleaner or seafoam in the next gas-up. 5) Change the oil and filter again when it gets dirty or at your normal interval-use Rotella again, untill the oil stays clean through your normal interval. 6) Put in your prefferred oil, and a seafoam or an oil safe detergent additive for two additional oil changes, then change as normal. Usually, the sludge is seriously headed out by the second oil change-I usually get 1000 or so miles on the first oil change, and then the second goes another 3k or so. The sludge in the head bolt recesses I do normally dig out-not much oil lows through those recesses, so what ever is in the oil that makes it in gets trapped. I have heard several other methods of cleaning a dirty engine, from diluting engine oil with kerosene, Mineral Spirits, heating oil or ATF. While I would not hesitate to use any of those to clean a part by its self or in an assembly I could move by hand, I don't think I would be willing to put those in an engine-because as Gary noted-taking too much nastiness lose to fast will overwhelm the filter and could cause oil path blockage, and engine possibly failure. I have used my method for more than 15 Zs, and never had an issue-other than the thin oil does seep by seals and make the car burn some oil until changed to the "normal". With the Rotella, usually it smokes a little at startup, and under heavy acceleration, but not in normal driving-when the oil is changed back, the smoking stops-but that will depend on the actual condition of the engine. I started this when I had a 280ZX that kept throwing rocker keys-the oil was so sticky if you put a drop between your finger and thumb, and pull them apart, the oil will pull into strands! I pulled the distributor and spin the oil pump to prime the oil system after changing that oil out and the problem left with the old oil. I still have that car, I bought it off ebay inop and towed it back from Newnan, Ga, with over 200k on the clock, and she still runs strong! Will

Arne, No, there is a silent "just" that my brain inserted secretly between the "Not" and "possible", that my fingers chose to play havoc with by not typing it! Will

Welcome and Congratulations! When the car arrives, be sure to take and post some pictures! Not that you aren't an old hand at taking care of a 240Z, but there is a ton of info(including tips, tricks, and observations) in the archives here-the search function is a seriously valuable yet often over-looked tool! Will

I feel pretty confident they would only start in the Z in 1975, with the introduction of fuel injection into the Z line. it would be kinda tough for a software/firmware program to interface with a non-electronic engine management system like a Skinners Union licensed carburetor...with no data port or electrical connections of any kind. Will

Not possible, and absolute certainty on the part in qestion! Will

I have to agree, someone took what was a rare program car and turned it into just another modified Z-odds are the program engine and the pieces sacrificed to modification are long gone. They seriously shrank thier market with modifing that car-but then it only takes one person with money to make a market, and two people with money(or a sellers buddy) to make for a bidding war. If the auction is won and it comes for sale again, from this bidder or the same seller, we'll know what happened. I would think the program cars would ultimately have the potential of values slightly less than #1 early cars, but only if left as finished and documented in the program. In my slanted way of thinking, it went from an interesting historic car to just another modified Z, and will take a good many years before it gets put back to its most valuable condition-I hope the owners in its history, and what will be its history, keep all of the paperwork... Will

1) Vacuum up all of the seeds. 2) Visit your local Walmart, in the "storage" section they sell old fashioned Moth Balls($3 or so). 3) Move the car outside in the sun. 4) Pop the plastic on the box, place the box on the console with the windows up. In less than an hour, the mouse will have gone looking for a new home(maybe a cats stomach). If the mouse has no success in finding new digs, it will come back, so leave the moth balls in the car for several days, and if Mr. mouse comes back he will run off again, after another attempt or two, he won't come back. Many people put cars up using Mothballs to make them less of a housing opportunity to rodents-it works. I have more than 20 parts cars stored 90 miles from me in an open field. Every time I visit the farm, I toss a box in each car as I described, in several years, I have found no evidence of varmits in those cars I "treated" yet other cars show serious habitation and transient life going on. Mothballs are an eviction notice for most rodents, they simply won't tolerate the odor. Will

They are the same, but shop around, not only do you need to consider the price of the airdam itself, but also the cost of shipping. Shipping can be a deal-breaker. Do a search using the term vendors, and then look them up to find the best deal on the airdam and shipping! Will

Yes it will fit, they are intechangeable. Will