hls30.com

I guess that is the list for the mechanic who has nothing! looks like everything was listed at full retail...I have called the dealer about buying some tools for my 300ZX through them, and wondered why some things were so expensive... now I know! Will

I have to agree, someone took what was a rare program car and turned it into just another modified Z-odds are the program engine and the pieces sacrificed to modification are long gone. They seriously shrank thier market with modifing that car-but then it only takes one person with money to make a market, and two people with money(or a sellers buddy) to make for a bidding war. If the auction is won and it comes for sale again, from this bidder or the same seller, we'll know what happened. I would think the program cars would ultimately have the potential of values slightly less than #1 early cars, but only if left as finished and documented in the program. In my slanted way of thinking, it went from an interesting historic car to just another modified Z, and will take a good many years before it gets put back to its most valuable condition-I hope the owners in its history, and what will be its history, keep all of the paperwork... Will

1) Vacuum up all of the seeds. 2) Visit your local Walmart, in the "storage" section they sell old fashioned Moth Balls($3 or so). 3) Move the car outside in the sun. 4) Pop the plastic on the box, place the box on the console with the windows up. In less than an hour, the mouse will have gone looking for a new home(maybe a cats stomach). If the mouse has no success in finding new digs, it will come back, so leave the moth balls in the car for several days, and if Mr. mouse comes back he will run off again, after another attempt or two, he won't come back. Many people put cars up using Mothballs to make them less of a housing opportunity to rodents-it works. I have more than 20 parts cars stored 90 miles from me in an open field. Every time I visit the farm, I toss a box in each car as I described, in several years, I have found no evidence of varmits in those cars I "treated" yet other cars show serious habitation and transient life going on. Mothballs are an eviction notice for most rodents, they simply won't tolerate the odor. Will

They are the same, but shop around, not only do you need to consider the price of the airdam itself, but also the cost of shipping. Shipping can be a deal-breaker. Do a search using the term vendors, and then look them up to find the best deal on the airdam and shipping! Will

Yes it will fit, they are intechangeable. Will

Ron, I would say I am counting the hours, but my Z needs so much... I don't have time to count them, but every day I know Mitty is getting closer, and that is exciting! Will

Ron, The only thing lacking in your car is a trip east...so I can see it in person. As I recall you are bringing it out for me to have a look at;), and Mitty just happened to be at the right time with a BRE twistROFLROFL! Will Hey, what is truth, what you believe, or what is?:stupid:

The lock mechanisms are different and using that door on that chassis will require some sheet metal work to fit the later lock in the earlier door, or the earlier striker in the later chassis. Will

Depending on condition I have seen them sell between $59 and $450 on ebay. Will

Not to be offensive, but, once again, it depends. Mostly on the faith of the buyer that you know what you were doing(unless you kept the receipts for what you used adn videotaped the process). You may be the best engine builder in the country, of you could be a NGAJr.-I have no idea, and probably no verifiable way to find out. A rebuilt engine from an unknown(and some ebay sellers) is not a known quantity, and usually lacks any sort of meaningful accountability as an assurance of quality. Most professionally rebuilt engines come with a local service warranty, and as such are actually meaningful and valuable to a buyer. No offense to you meant, but most people after a rebuilt L28ET would hesitate to buy one from a guy far away in Texas with an unknown reputation, who has no real and verifiable way of correcting any issues that might arise within a reasonable length of time. Please don't take that as a knock to you, Look at it as if I were selling the engine and you were looking to buy one. As an example, I might offer a 2 year warranty on my rebuild(I do NOT REBUILD ENGINES) but all warranty issues are handled by me personally. That means a buyer in Texas would have to remove his engine, ship it to Georgia, wait until I get it repaired, and ship it back-more than likely the buyer would have to pay shipping both ways, for the removal and installation, and have the car inop for an undetermined length of time. If you paid $2000 for the rebuilt engine, and had to pay another $1000 in removal/installation and shipping charges, how valuable is my warranty? The warranty costs you a minimum of $1000 and unspecified time to use. How many and what possible warranty issues in an L28ET rebuild could be corrected for less than that $1000? This is essentailly a "0 accountability warranty". Now If I offered easily verifiable local no-hassle repair at one of several shops local to the buyer, all of a sudden the warranty just became valuable. I might still have to pay for RnR, but I suspect a great many rebuild issues could be taken care of without removing the engine. This is a serious accountability warranty. I would say a personally rebuilt L28ET is worth what you can sell it locally to you for-unless you have a buddy that knows you well that needs one somewhere else, or find a trusting soul with no clue. I doubt it would be more valuable to anyone else. This is not to say that a privately rebuilt engine is a ticket to problems, only that it easily can be. This is also not to say that you are looking to stick someone, just that in considering a purchase, both best and worst case scenarios should be taken into account, and that the accountability of each perspective situation should be evaluated too. Will ATK warranty.pdf

I would say you are right, some kind of aaftermarket choke, probably if you follow the wires it is connected to, you will find either the reason it is there, or evidence of the reason it is there...more often than not something to do with the audio system-possibly an easy tie in for an early aftermarket amp, or a full time power connection. Will

The red '73 in my gallery was my car, but not the car in my avitar. The one is my avitar will be far nicer, and is almost finished, after many delays! Currently it is on hold while I supervise the actual Restoration of another members car. For the pits you can sand/media blast, and /or acid treat-even if you media blast, I would always acid wash afterward. For small pitted areas, I used a squirt bottle filled with metal ready or Ospho (Phosoric acid with Zinc) scraps of paper towel, and a wire brush. tear a piece of paper towel large enough to just cover the rusty area, saturate it with the acid wash, and apply it to the rusted area. go around the car and treat all of them that way, and use the spray bottle to keep them wet. when the paper town starts looking nasty, throw it away, give the spot a squirt, heit it with the wire brush, give it somemore squirts to wash away what you brushed lose, and re-aply a paper towel. When the paper towels no longer get nasty, the majority of the rust will be gone, but check the pits, all of the metal area should be a uniform color of gray-any black you see is stubborn rust-work on it with a pick, and keep it wet. when the whole area is uniform gray bordering on "Blued" looking, you have removed all of the rust, spray it again, and if you let the acid wash dry, you will have a zinc phosphate coating to prevent flash rust! Take everything in bite sized chunks and work will flow, progress will be made, and the car will get done! Thanks for the kind words. Will

Mike, Welcome to the club. Don't forget the search function-it can answer most questions as soon as you submit your querry, but don't hesitate to post questions either! Post pictures of your cars and fill out your profile so we have some frame of refereence for answering your questions-and to satisfy(or spark) our curiosity! Will

Quick over all Measurements Z vs E31. Measurements include all knobs/covers! Widest part od thew seat bottom Z..... 21" E31.. 21" Overall width at hinge(includes covers and knobs) Z..... 20" E31.. 20.5" Length of Seat bottom Z..... 22" E31.. 21" Width of seatback-including knobs/covers Z..... 19" E31.. 21" Length of seatback Z..... 29" E31.. 30" Thickness of the butt support (rear to front)-unladen, no mounting rails! Z..... 4.5"-5.5" E31.. 3.5-7" Thickness of Z rails 13/16" Will

Pictures of the Z seat beside the Manual E31 Will

Well, the rain is starting again, so I will be waiting on most of the other pictures, but I have a set of Z seats in the Florida room (that is a Jalousie porch for those that don't know). As soon as the boys are asleep, I'll bring a Z seat in and proceed with more pictures and measurements. Will

Welcome! and Congratulations! Discovering a Z can be a life altering experience-I see you are finding that out! Will

Pictures of both seats-the black is an unmolested fully powered passenger seat the tan drivers side seat is a fully manual seat with the tracks removed-are here. I'll take some pictures of both of the passenger sides and drivers sides with cooresponding factory Z seats after everyone goes to bed and I can run to the trailer unencumbered with little boys! I'll also take and post measurements at that time.

The paper laying on the seat is the tag receipt from the car I took the black motorized seats from-that way I know what car these seats were in, and have the VIN. The Black motorized seat is holding the seat pictured in the position it is in-so you can't see it at the moment! I'll see about using this thread to get all the pictures sorted out and the crux of the Technical article sorted out.

Ok, I am actually getting on this right now! here are two pics ot the setup. 1 is the bottom of an E31 seat with the OEM rails and adjustment hardware removed. The other is a set of 240Z rails jigged by setting them in the seat mounts and then braced with some strap to keep them in position while I work out where to mount the rails to the seat. Time to put the boys to bed, I'll be back in a few to continue. Will

Eastwood has great products, but rarely at great prices, shop it and you will probably find it for around $100. Even they sell it cheaper on ebay... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Devilbiss-HVLP-Auto-Paint-%26-Touch-Up-Spray-Gun-System_W0QQitemZ230354100289QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/Devilbiss-HVLP-Auto-Paint-Touch-Up-Spray-Gun-System_W0QQitemZ370226835314QQcategoryZ11785QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3907.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DSI%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%252BFICS%26otn%3D15%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D54 Will PS this has no turbine...

Don't forget to tape up the stainless trim! Will

Along these lines, My examples and illustrations will be in installing the BMW E31 seats into a '72 240Z. Will

The whole thread here is to set up a detailed, complete and reproduceable installation of BMW E31 sport seats. We do not want an "others similar", chilton or Haynes style answer, but an exact step by step installation instruction of this specific seat into this specific Z car. While there are similarities, there are differences too, and as we entertain several threads on spindle pin removal, tuning Carburetors, Reupholstering seats, Painting a Z, automatic transmissions that fit a Z, and almost every other possible Z topic, having a specific thread that ultimately becomes a Technical article is completely within the scope of acceptability of this club. Anything not relating directly to the specific installation of these BMW seats into an S30(or s30 seats into a BMW;) would be better off in a PM, or elsewhere!

I have heard that GM was told to "get on the Stick", but this ad is a bit much-they could have just done a remake of a Village People Video and gotten a pull from the same market without the issues from those not in it! Will