hls30.com

I had the option of buying them from a local vendor who ordered and installed them-hence the higher price. If yours are in need of a new home.... Thanks Stephen:beer:, I knew I was close, but had no cigar! Whoda thunk a silent "D":stupid:! Will

This is the same company I have been in negotiations for well over a year to have these and a multitude of other S30 pieces made in stainless steel. I am sure their quality is high even if their business practices leave something to be desired... Will

Bill, I bought Interpart Louvers My first Z after looking at all of the louvers that were available. There were three types that I looked at though there were six or seven name brands. The louvers the parts in question fit were the least expensive that I looked at, something like $150 with shipping, I liked the fact that it took a key to open them, but the hinges were a serious weak point to me. The Interpart had what I considered to be the best mounting, no holes required, a tab for each hinge, a rubber contact strip(much like door edge guard-but smaller) for each slat, and a fitted side piece that ran under the weatherstrip for the length of each side of the glass with a real tongue based lock-and that cool Interpart stamped chrome plated key. I paid something like $250 with shipping for them. They are still on that car-though I re-painted them once. The other set I looked at were a couple of brands that were the same as the Shadow brand that was used on the Black Pearl. I liked the serious and well made knurled deadbolt lock, (but with out the need for a key, they had no security-and theft was an issue when louvers were new to the scene) and the hinges, but the clincher was the need to drill holes. It isn't that the louvers that fit the Parts Terry pictured were cheep, they were just the least expensive that were available to me-still not cheep, or inexpensive!. Will

Pretty paint promises a nice car, but the interior/engine compartment doesn't deliver. Missing heater controls-and fan, rust on the door sill(passengerside seen through the drivers door opening, What's up with the shifter boot(stuck over the shifter, not installed in the console?), a switch in the(dirty) console emblem, Mismatched red interior, Dirty, rusty engine compartment with cut wires dangling. First place in a carshow held one month ago? Not if the pictures in the ad are current-unless the pretty paintjob blinded the judges, or the interior and engine compartment didn't count at all! Well then again, with the tinted windows, and the car locked with the hood down...and a NEWELL type car show...Then again, the extra pictures do show a better interior situation than those in the ebay ad-clean and with hvac controls installed-though the fuzzys at the door glass look to be in need of replacement... If the ebay ad pictures are current, this is a project car with pretty paint-no interior/underhood detailing, and no HVAC/defroster. I can't help but wonder why it wasn't finished, and what else was left undone. If the ebay ad pictures are not current, what is the seller thinking using them? Will

I guess the original builder figured out that it was cheeper to buy a mustang fastback body than to convert a Z body into one... Will

I would say the rising temperature you have noticed is normal in hot climates-every Z I have ever had does similar things in the summer. With no air going through the radiator, the heat can't dissipate, and as the engine is hotter than the coolant, the temperature rises when the car is shut off. As long as you don't get more than 3/4 scale, I wouldn't worry. Will

Those are the mounting strips for an inexpensive aftermarket hatch louver, they slip partially under the rear window weatherstrip and are held in position by an interference fit when the louvers are actually installed-though more often than not a couple of daubs of clear or black silicone was used to secure them for the times when the louvers were unlocked and lifted to clean the rear window-as the upper hinge is not the sturdiest version used in louvers. The large hole at one end accepted the probosces of lock functioning as and strongly resembling a Zues(?) fastener-usually with a key resembling a two pin gunlock key. Will

Clear looks like...well, nothing, -more of a nonfunctional representation. Amber and red looks like it is meant to be on the street whompin' all comers! Will

That is a New York members car-he posted the video and a link. fairly Low vin, engine damage, great swap! Will

Swapping an L24 into a 280Z would work, but lower the performance, and require some changes in the fuel delivery. Will

Thanks for the heads up, I'll go back through! Will

You know, Carl is looking to replace his $100, 350K GM gassaholic with the cheepest new car he can find...I'm not sure that I can't picture him rolling up in one of these with Bumper sticker, "My other car is Really a Rally Z!"ROFL Will

Bruce, Unlike my friends, who get blamed for everything when they are not around;), we don't have a CarQuest 'round here, so I have no experience with them to comment on! Again, I can't say Autozone is better or worse than any other parts house, only that I have not needed to look further than their convenience because I have gotten good pricing on good mechanical maintenance parts from them. Will

Your facts and my experience differ, I have been into S30s for more than 30 years. When a Alternator looks just like the one that came off(down to the manufacturers cast housing-and works flawlessly for 124K and 10 years on my '76 2+2 I find it tough to agree with you. It looks like You missed the part where ALL of the parts I listed earlier are currently in stock at my local store-and generally stay that way, and I have used the Warranty three times-that is three times in 97 replacement parts(I keep the warranty receipts), one Alternator(in 12-after three years), one Master Vac( in 2 quite possibly my fault), and one injector(in 37 DOA) Granted my quantities are too small for a meaningful statistical analysis of chain wide failure rate, but over all just over a 3% failure rate is acceptable-given the convenience of warranty fulfilment. On a daily driver, I would rather take a 3% failure rate with seriously convenient local instock position and a far lower price than a 1% failure rate with a five day turnaround at a higher price with shipping on top of it! Again, ALL of the parts I listed above were in stock-including the Fram airfilter(Though I do admit, the KNN has to be ordered) Sometimes the same cheep parts are sold more expensively elsewhere. I agree better quality parts are a good thing, I simply have not found a need to research a quality difference. When there is only a price difference, and no proven quality difference, the low price wins. If I had complete specs to compare, I would buy the better spec'd part. To my knowledge, no parts supplier (MSA, Black Dragon, Napa, AutoZone, Rock Auto, etc. actually publishes a quantifiable and defendable quality difference. "Ours is better than theirs", "we are the best", "nobody beats our quality" etc are the same "reasons" the owners of the "higher end" Marques felt that at they were superior before and took consolation after being whipped by S30s at the race track. Hype and feelings are not proof. I recently had to buy a replacement tire for my truck, I went in to my local Goodyear store,(the tire was warranted, but not covered)and got a price for the tire of $189.99, plus $40 for mounting and Balancing. I called Tire rack from the Lobby and the same brand and Model of tire was $93. The manager came over and essentially told me that he would knock $20 off, but scoffed that Tire Rack sold only seconds...and he could not price match a first quality tire and a second. I bought the tire at TireRack, Picked it up the next day and had it mounted and balanced by Asian Automotive for $20. I know the equipment used to mount and balance my tire was far better at Asian Automotive, and as the owner did it himself, I expect the experience and knowledge behind it was better too. I Prefer to get higher quality-and expect to pay more for it, I just have to know I am getting higher quality to pay more. I am like most people, when I find a satisfactory answer, I quit looking for one. Will

While I don't want to be seen as endorcing AutoZone, I have to disagree with you, For my drivers, I have been using Autozone parts in My Zs since AutoZone opened here in Savannah, Mostly because they are the closest parts place to me-before that it was Kutcheys Auto Supply. For most typical(and easily swapped) replacement parts-those I listed earlier, I have no hesitation in using parts from them or the other discount chains-a lifetime warranty is more valuable to me when a replacement part is only a drive down the street away-with no return Shipping or wait to deal with-but in more than 10 years of buying at Autozone for more than seven Zs, I have only had to use the warranty on three items-my experience is their parts are dependable. Add to that replacing a bad starter under warranty with them takes less than an hour under the car and round trip, and it is kinda hard to justify spending more money or time for one. Granted, If I am after ball joints, engine kits, and the high wear high dependability parts, I generally hit the Dealer. Most parts places generally draw from the same sources, and Beck Arne is Beck Arne, AC Delco is AC Delco, Bosch is Bosh, KNN is KNN, etc. regardless of what outlet it is bought through. As I illustrated with a price range, you can go cheep, or higher quality even at Autozone. I normally price AutoZone, and PartsAmerica for parts I need "to get the car back into service" now because of convenience, I generally shop them and RockAuto for the things that are planned in advance. I openly admit that the only mechanical parts I have bought through MSA or Black Dragon were a Camber kit, and a set of speed bleeders. Will PS, I have to agree with you on maintenance-it keeps the car on the road, and we don't post much about it here-I guess we take it for granted that all members know the wisdom in beating wear and time to the punch-or since the most given advice is to buy a FSM and use it, we assume that it will be done.

If the above don't work, I have two suggestions. 1) Get Gasoline with a lower ethanol content. You are using Too high a proof for the car to toe a straight line! 2) Quit testing after a Z club meeting at a BAR! maybe the "testing equipment is the source of the wobble! Seriously, Two suggestions from personal experience. 1) Verify the nuts at the top of you strut are tight, a wobbling shock absorber(gland nut and/or the strut shaft nut) can do this and so can a wobbling strut assy(3 nuts at the top of the strut towers)-it only happens at speed when the front end lift floats enough weight off the contact areas to let them slide around, and occasionally in spirited direction change when the friction of the contact patch is overcome by the forces of inertia. 2) Verify that the tires are actually round-After adding a front spoiler my car improved seriously, but still had this issue, I had the tires trued, and never had such great tracking and ride. Will

Typical maintenance parts costs'72 240Z-from AutoZone.com-in stock local to me. These prices are typical of stores in my area(Oreilly, Parts America, Napa is higher) Starter auto or manual $35 Alternator $33 Alt belt $7-$14 Water Pump $20-$35 PH8A oil filter $4 Fuel Pump Mechanical $40 Fuel Pump Electric $50 Thermostat $6-$20 NGK BPR6ES2 $4 each Cap and Rotor $12-$26 Airfilter $13-$48 Wipers $6-$18 Brake shoes $ 18 Brake Pads $19-$22 Loaded pair of Calipers $108 Rear Wheel Cyl $40 each All readily available at my local store.... Will

Welcome! 1) Depends completely on the condition of the car you start off with. Notice I said condition and not how much you spent on the car-sometimes a sows ear is painted up as a silk purse. 2) A Z in good condition is pretty inexpensive to operate. Most of the maintenance items easier for an owner to do than on most new cars. Taking care of Maintenance yourself saves money! My experience with daily driving a Z has been keep the fluids changed and lubricate everything regularly, and the car will play timex/energiZer bunny. The key is to fix all the little stuf as it happens. The last Z I drove daily and treated as described above cost me less than 1/10th what my new cars cost the first year I owned them-when taxes, tag, insurance, maintenance and gas were added in. About the same as those cars have aged-taxes have gone down, but repair costs have exceeded what the taxes lost. The key is to get a good Z, mechanically sound, with a sound chassis. The key to that is in the pre-purchase inspection. Get someone who knows Zs to do it with or for you. Get either a good experienced Z mechanic, or a good set of metric tools and a Factory Service Manual. Will

Gary, Wasn't that "Shoe Goo", you used to do the brake jobs back then-only serious sports cars had shoe brakes ,the others had just bare feet! Will PS did anyone pinstripe cars back then?

Everything you ever wanted to know and were afraid to ask... http://datsunzgarage.com/ http://www2.zhome.com:81/rnt/L28TurboConversion/Genavese.htm Browse them first to find the diamonds... Will

Hey. That motor could pull 400HP! throw a chain from the sway bar to any running 400hp car with good tires, good bearings and placed in neutral with the brakes off, she'd pull 400hp easy! That Full Body kit does it for me, but the full drag suspension-there is no way that car has that-it is just too rare! That guy is a NGA wannabe! I am the only one with a set of these! http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=10657&ppuser=4106 Will;)

Ron, We'll know soon- when the boys go down for their nap I'll get on it today! The mesh I have is much tighter than window screen, I'll see how its opening are relative to the glass bead-I am suret they are fine for 80 grit material. Will

I did have another thought(such a rare occurrence I chose to record it here!)! What about using the clear "slit bar clamp" type report covers covers? 50 run about $15 or so, and would give 2 shields each when trimmed...painters tape would affix it to the glass. Will

My tests were postponed onacouna rain-I have the HF glass bead in my cabinet at the moment too. I'll move the cabinet to a larger dry space tomorrow, weather cooperating!, and with any luck get to the testing a few minutes later. Will

go down to the bottom of this page and listed under "similar threads" you will see the name of the thread, and a link to it: Door Pillar Vinyl Pics Please & Diamond Vinyl Source?