Blitzed

Duffy, Very cool, let me know the overall advantages with the Haltech ECU / tune. Hopefully DBW will fix the idle gain (after hot) and cold start set-up. I'm done throwing money at the EFI conversion, will stick with the stock throttle linkage /set -up. Planning a 300+ mile drive (round trip) on the new set-up end of April to Solvang, CA for the Datsun Roaster Classic, multi day event. Engine is self tunning (fuel map) at this point, hopefully will gain some corrective data on the top end of the fuel map, highway travel. Zooter71 - Ditto Duffy's comments. If I had to do all over again, would spend the initial dollars on a tunning course, HP or other. Money well spent.

two cents, ebay and other market places maybe losing inventory / listings of good/rare parts with all auto brands. 1099K required on a single/accumulative sales $600.00 (to release the funds). That's capitalism for you in the US, the Fed's involved in your depreciated/appreciated 50 year old parts. Wonder when they'll get around to tracking your overall purchases/dollars spent on the these platform? Moved away from these market places to local clubs and communities, cash and carry. Making discovery of good parts more difficult.

Hi All, Purchased the Speedi sleeve and a Nissan front crank seal. Read posts on the life cycle of aftermarket crank seals. You defiantly can see the wire pattern from the seal in the groove on the shaft. You can also see where the seal was sitting on the shaft, not sure the seal was flush with the cover? Any other trick or methods (other than heat and cold) for the sleeve pressing process? Thank you for all the info.

Never easy, Thank you. With the added thickness same crank seal required?

Thanks Siteunseen, visual is great as I'm peering through the timing cover crank hole. Got it, so important to part lubrication. The dampener looks in go shape but I wouldn't know what is damage or bad. No movement, solid. Is the groove on the back sleeve suppose to be there or is this wear?

Hi All, Which direction does the oil thrower / slinger reinstall. Cup back or cup forward. Did not pay attention when removed. Read posts you can remove the oil thrower / slinger. What is the purpose of the part? keep oil off the seal?

Yeah, don't reinstall with the hosing original slot position, speedo doesn't work. Job is always better the second time 😞 Thanks for the info and confirmation.

Hi All, Another general maintenance question. The engine developed the dreaded crank seal leak, fling oil all round the engine bay, good times. Question: The current crank pully is a triple pully (see pic). Removed the smog pump, removed the air conditioner, running a single belt on the balancer. So can I remove the outer two pullies? Will I need a different length crank bolt to reinstall a single pully? See pics of the current bolt has a thick spacer???

Hi All Thanks for the input all back together, not leaking thus far but only a couple of miles on the road. Yes, the transmission swap could be the causing the leak. Swap to a wide ratio 5 speed the pinion gear housing was slotted and turned 180 degrees. Meaning all images of a 4 speed pinon gear housing (hoses the gear and shaft) the hold down plate slot and 10MM bolt are top. The 5 speed slot and hold down plate and 10MM bolt are bottom. The seller of the trans took an angle grinder and created a slot on the other side of the housing and installed. Assume the housing came off a 4 speed trans and is not a 5 speed housing?

Thank you.

Hi All, General question, on speedo gear removal. Can removal and replacement of the speedo gear be done without draining the gear oil? Assume rear end on stands? Need to replace both seals. Thanks.

50 is low here (maybe three days out of the year), went EFI to eliminate the choke and the warm up process. What you've really created is a similar cable cruise control from the Datsun Roadsters. 2000's have a knob that pulls and twist locks on the dash for pedal free cruising on highway. Tried it a few times with Roadster, downside the engine heat can stretch the cable so upon disengagement idle speed off the freeway can be very interesting.

Running a air box for two reason, dirt and mainly heat. What you don't see in this pic is the 4" intake tube is now mounted to back side of the front grill. screen filter in the tube at the radiator brace and a 4" inlet turbo waterproof nylon screen at the front end of the tube (grill) ITB horns are beautiful with chrome screens on the ends and look awesome when the box is off but under hood temps can vastly exceed coolant engine temps. My intake air sensor (mounted at the front end of the box) reads constantly half of the coolant temp. 160 coolant temp, 80 air intake. It's not forced air but the air draw at speed from a 4" tube at the grill is cool and abundant.

Hi Duffy, Do not remove the B/W wire from the connector, splice into the wire using a copper U shaped crimp connector and heat shrink. Leave the connector intact for all other functions. This connection (pink wire) will only power up the ECU when the key is in the on position. Again, I'm safe guarded with the fuse box inline on the harness. Running for a year with this config, no issues, blown fuses and all stock electrical components function. Don't touch your tach, give me a call.

Agree without the Haltech premium wiring harness (safeguard investment). The prem harness runs all ECU connections back through intergraded expandable fuse and relay box (pink ign wire 12v switched and all battery connections included). Not not sure what Duffy has for a harness?

Duffy, Have a 73, so don't want to assume your stock ignition harness is the same wire color combo. Remove ignition switch cover behind the steering wheel and test the 5 pin connector plugged to the back of the ign key switch. Believe it's the B/W wire for 12v switched on (it's been a year and reassembled). Attach the pink wire from the Haltech ECU.

Duffy, Don't want to complicate all the info you're receiving. Your in need of a 12v switched lead? Your running a Haltech Elite 750 that has a 34 pin main connector on top of the ECU, you must have a 34 pin harness connector? correct, Pin 26, looking at the connector on the top of the ECU, lower left corner, 12 v switched connection for multiple components.

Understand lazy, that's why I overlaid all Haltech components with the Haltech wiring harness, crank sensor, coolant temp, intake air, coil, injectors, TPS and fuel pump are on a standalone harness / circuit away from the stock harness and fuse box. The only spice into the stock harness is the switched 12v ignition (main ECU connection) at the key harness and stock tach through the Haltech coil wire. All stock gauges, components and lights function and operate on the stock harness and stock fuse box.

Did you purchase a wiring harness from Haltech? the premium harness runs back through fuses box and relays. Did your harness come with two shielded cables (4 wire for cam and crank sensor)? The Cam sensor wire has a switched 12v (red).

Racer X No, inspected the back of caliper, no anti rattle springs in place. Just the rod retainer spring (on back side of caliper) connecting and holding the pad rods. missing the spring pushing down on the backing plate. Found the springs replacements on-line, they actually call them "anti rattle springs". Toyota requires one per caliper (bottom of each caliper), couple of YouTube video's suggesting to add an additional spring on the top as well. Ordered 4. Thank you for the info.

Hi All, When coasting can hear a rattle in the front of car after further inspection it's the front brake pads in the Toyota calipers. The pads have a slight play up and down, under vehicle weight and non-braking conditions they're moving as the rotor turns. Louder when I start to drive and the brakes are cold, quieter when the brakes are hot but still moving. Have others experienced this noise with the Toyota front brake conversion? Any fix to the issue? No tabs to bend on the pad shim / backing plates. New pads only 300 miles. Thanks.

All, Searched the archives but this may be new issue due to the supply chain limitations we all live in today. Need to rebuild my L28 and will use the components/cores (block and head) in the car now. Engine is NA ITB's. N42 block and N42 head, stock, zero previous head work or zero bore on the block. Every builder I've engaged on average is 6 months + to rebuild. A large portion of the timeframe is waiting for suppliers to deliver parts, pistons etc.. Would like to pre-purchase / acquire the internals prior to pulling the engine (car still runs), to cut down the rebuild timeframes. Understand bearing and other internal parts cannot be purchased until disassemble /assemble. Goal is 200+ HP (just dyno tuned 160hp, sad and tired engine )with this engine, what's good enough for my driving ability. What would you do to this stock platform? keeping the engine NA, N42 block and N42 head. Flat top pistons - What size, cast or forged? Head - Understand ton or work will go into the head, What size values or spring kit would your purchase? Cam - What size cam? running 45mm Kameari manifold and 45mm ITB's. Already installed and running, lighten flywheel, 6 into one header, 5 speed wide ratio, R200 3.9 differential, Haltech 750 ECU. Thank you for your input.

Hi Duffy. How did the IAC workout? Where did you purchase? brand? My set-up is currently void of a IAV. Spent the large dollars for a professional tune. Passes up to 7,000 RPM. Was surprised ITB's without a IAC require a ton of ignition advance on the low end, close to 30 but required to eliminate the stumble when you stab the accelerator. Idling high now 900-1000 RPM but running strong. Who are you working with at Haltech? CA office or other location?

View Advert 240Z Complete three screw SU intake 240Z Complete three screw SU intake. Includes, Three screw SU's x2, balance tube (smog delete with fittings), center linkage, throttle coupler, N33 manifold, throttle return springs, heat shield and all fuel fittings. Bolt on and go. Removed from a running engine 2021. Orange County, CA $700.00 firm US shipping only + shipping cost, calculated on ship to location. e-mail anwhiteford@att.net Advertiser Blitzed Date 07/06/2022 Price $700 Category Parts for Sale