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Hi Gundee, Will check it out. Not sure the installation as I'm not running a MSD module. Ignition set-up ECU coil wire to a small ignitor module to the single HEI coil (ignitor and coil pic in thread). Can add filters at the coil and have been trying different configs. MSD is a ignition module so the installation could be similar. Suspect you're right the com loss could be battery voltage changes as Haltech installation instruction have the main ECU connections to the + /- of the battery. That all runs through a relay and fuse box to the ECU and harness. Check and see if I can data log batt voltage on my next drive and check for any changes in voltage when the com goes down. Thanks for the info.

Hi All, Still having issues with the connection from the ECU to laptop while driving. Very random, not at specific rpm or load. Can turn on and off components (lights, turn sigs, radio, heater etc..). Will stay connected on a drive for 20-30 mins then disconnects, next drive disconnects every 5 mins multiple times, then stays connected for the remainder of the drive. Where is the noise coming from randomly? Specs: L28 73 240Z stock wiring harness with a Haltech 750 ECU, ITB's, single HEI coil, sequential fire with a modern electronic distributor (sync and home signals), in-tank fuel pump (static speed) . I've grounded every thing to the block and added grounds, shorten the ground loops, coil , distributor, and intake. Cleaned and reinstalled all stock ground locations, upgraded the alternator with diode connector (removed the stock VR). Added a suppressor to the coil positive, removed and installed the 2.2mf condenser, removed and installed a 3.0mf condenser and replaced the laptop and com cable (twice), going broke. Here's an unusual questions. Can the fan clutch noise create any interference with an ECU connection or an electronic distributor? Any suggestions? Thank you.

Hi Duffy, Running 347cc EV14 Bosch, 1/2" height. My throttles are smaller, moved the fuel pressure reg setting to 45lbs unvacuumed. Sends a nice quick mist into the chamber. Agree my throttles are rated up to 70HP each, will never achieve the max HP x6 rating N/A. Believe part of the problem with ITB's, folks are over fueling these engines with big bodies and large injectors. Car is going to the tuner, taken it as far as my knowledge base. Self tuning beautifully but tuning decel is whole other animal. The lean spots at shift points and decay at decel is tricky with the distance of the injector to the valve.

Jeff, Thanks for the heads up on the remflex gasket, worked out perfectly.

Thanks, Ordered two gaskets, will source the copper adhesive locally. Hope this will do the trick. I'm map tuning so tearing down over and over, will reset the tune. Cant tune with the leak, O2 sensor reading will be false. Any strength advantage with all head studs versus bolts on the manifold and studs on the header? BTW- the bolt and nut sizes I referenced were the tool sizes required. When you've taking apart and reinstalled anything a couple of times you just look and bolt and reference the tool required. Will report back when reinstalled.

Here's the area with the leak.

Hi Steve, Inquired about doubling up but could not get any of the local shops to say, yes, that's the answer. It's always about inspecting the flange and new hardware. Not familiar with a Beck - Arnley gaskets ?? Willing to try anything at this point. Thanks again.

Hi All, Purchased a manifold gasket from MSA. Installed to fix a vacuum leak on a new manifold. Fixed the vacuum leak but under driving load developed a exhaust leak. See pic and leak location (yellow dot, front side of the center section of the exhaust flange). I can put my finger over the location and feel the air pulses. Engine ran for three weeks fine but developed the leak while driving under load. Running a Kameari manifold with MSA 6 into one header on a L28 with N42 head. Retorqued the flange nuts no change, It's appears I'll be crying and removing the entire intake and header again to install a new gasket (third time is the charm I hope 😞). Any tricks, torqued bolts center out on the last reinstall or different year gasket?. Running 12/MM bolts on the manifold and studs with 13/MM nuts on the header flange. The folks selling the Kameari manifold show a manifold gasket but not sure if their gasket is any different then the purchase from MSA?? But the manifold sealed (no issues idle speed variation). https://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-intake-manifold-kit-l-type-50mm-l6-rod-type.html Thank you,

Hi Duffy, Congrats on the new born and home, life is good. Thank you for all the data on your thread, helped with my conversion tremendously. Agree ECU / ITB conversion on the L series has it's challenges as issues begin to pop up over every step. Don't want to highjack your thread but you we're instrumental in my conversion. Couple of pics attached. Building a sleeper but no hiding the roll bar. Running a CAN display in the clock position on the dash. She's running but as you mentioned doing load tuning. Question, tuning with all ign and fuel corrections turned off, attempting to tune through the RPM curve, then apply corrections. What was the switch you flipped off in the Nexus software to allow for cold start tuning? I'm in CA so average coolant temp cold is 60. Still dealing with electrical noise in the engine bay, messing with my contactless TPS. Any suggestions? What plugs are you running? Thanks again for detailing your build.

Thanks for the response and info. Moved the star ground from the chassis to the head and the issue with the hall effect signals gone. Haltech signal grounds are all connected to the main battery ground, correct the trigger and sync are shielded cables (2). Haltech suggested adding grounds to reduce the noise on the block. ITB's, coil and hall effect distributor are AUS based products. Straight forward install the hurdles have been ECU functions. All good now, starts, idles, all outputs on the CAN look good. Working through transient throttle tuning or additional vacuum sync on the ITB's, she's coughing (no backfire) though the ITB's when stabbing the pedal. Encouraged by your HP gains. I'll enjoy the stock L28 this year. Pull the engine end of year to stroke and head work (N42 head). Wanted to understand the ECU / EFI conversion before the rebuild and reinstall. Enjoy the drive.

VM set 20k omhs and neg battery post. All connections, chassis bolt (in pic) and on the firewall, alternator neg, block, started neg cable bolt all zeroed out. Since the engine will not start, The only dynamic test I can do is ignition on, fuel pump running. Same VM setting 20k Chassis bolt below the battery, 22, alternator neg bolt 24, block 20, star grounding connectors, 12. When I touch the signal ground wire for the distributor connector with the ignition on, bounces, 4-24 randomly. Is this common for a signal ground? One main ground wire from the ECU to the battery - (input) All signal ground wires for the components are ECU outputs and are tied in the main harness to pin 10 battery - input.

Hi All, No offense taken, the conversion to Haltech ECU and EFI was what is was intended, a learning experience. Was not and still not and expert but working my way through the curve to novice. Yes, main obstacle is the ECU is not recognizing the distributor pluses. It did and operated flawlessly, 6 months ago ran the ignition and timed with the SU carbs. I've added additional parts since them fuel pump and sensors. So something went sideways with the additional function. As mentioned all other parts work, pump runs, 02 sensor has readings, TPS sensor functions, intake air sensor reads, coolant temp reads, MAP reads, CAN gauge in the dash and all stock gauges all function. Question about the distributor, pic, parts and functions. I start a new thread here, you can see all the parts and diagrams "Haltech wiring ignition basic questions". Thanks I'll take some meter readings and report back.

Zed Head, The ECU wiring to the distributor is a shielded cable and the ECU can not handle multiple grounds points on these cables. One side or the other. Currently the ground connection for the main ECU ground is the battery which drives the signal grounds to the distributor and other sensors. All other sensor requiring a signal ground from the ECU function properly and static (non running engine) reads are recognized by the ECU.. Because the distributor requires movement to trigger data on the ECU, it's an issue. Believe it's a switch on bad ground (before start) issue as I've tested the distributor pulsing when I connect the distributor to the ECU connector and turn the key to the on position (ECU on) and rotate the distributor rotor, ECU is still not pick up the pulse signals, so a disconnect at power on. All wires in the connector ECU side have been metered as good. No fuses blowing, the ECU has two fuses integrated and two relays all good.

Zed Head, Alternator has been upgraded with MSA 60 amp with harness adapter. See pic of wiring, assume the ground wire from the stock harness is linked the chassis ground below the battery. I'm not seeing a ground wire to the engine block from the alternator. Not seeing any ground wires to the block other than the battery to starter.

Hi All, 240z Wiring harness , L28 two questions below on grounds. The EFI set-up is complete. Worked with Haltech remotely engine is running but chasing down a vacuum leak. Also having a weird issue with the electronic distributor connection to the ECU. Losing the grounds randomly. First questions: Need to add a grounding strap from the chassis to engine block. Why, attempting to move my star ground (all required ECU ground connections) to another point (currently chassis). Where is the best connection point? The engine bay harness is a stock 73 240Z. Is the chassis ground under the battery box off the harness a good point for a chassis to engine block strap? The FSM manual will not help with this issue, adding ground connections. Second question: Also running a single coil with igniter (no problems), all the stock 240z coil, distributor, resistor wires have been terminated and secured. Harness is still intact on left front fender. Is the green/white wire (ground) a usable ground wire in from the old harness for a chassis ground? Thanks,

Hi All, 240z Wiring harness , L28 The EFI set-up is complete. Worked with Haltech remotely engine is running but chasing down a vacuum leak. Also having a weird issue with the electronic distributor connection to the ECU. Losing the signal grounds randomly. Question. Need to add a grounding strap from the chassis to engine block. Why, attempting to move my star ground (all required ECU ground connections) to another point (currently chassis). Where is the best connection point? The engine bay harness is a stock 73 240Z. Is the chassis ground under the battery box off the harness a good point for a chassis to engine block strap? The FSM manual will not help with this issue, adding ground connections. Also running a single coil with igniter (no problems), all the stock 240z distributor coil, distributor, resistor wires have been terminated and secured. Harness is still intact on left front fender. Is there a usable ground wire in from the old harness for a chassis ground? Thanks,

View Advert 240Z Series one air cleaner 240Z Series one air cleaner. Minor dents and damage, rubber seals showing age. All fitting on back intact. Additional pics available upon request. anwhiteford@att.net Local pick up only. Orange County, CA Advertiser Blitzed Date 02/08/2022 Price $350 Category Parts for Sale  

View Advert 240Z Jeco Clock restored 240Z Jeco Clock original mechanical mech. Restored by Z clock, 2020. Full operational, on time. Removed from a functioning dash, 8/2021. Additional pics available upon request. anwhiteford@att.net Local pick up only. Advertiser Blitzed Date 02/08/2022 Price $400 Category Parts for Sale