Blitzed

Thanks All, I'll try cutting a groove and bending out or off the treads. Concerned about cutting to the treads. Back with a report shortly.

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-6000

Sorry, 1973 240z.

Hi All, I'm in suspension hell. Sure the Z vets out there who've gone through the fire prior are laughing. Cost is adding up rapidly as the shock towers were sent the local car shop for "F"ing gland nut and old cartridge removal. FYI - gland nut tool for $35.00 bucks does a fine job of rounding all the corners (not sure it the right size for the nut?), waste of money. Here my question, purchased Eibach progressive springs, Koni adjustable shocks and the new pillow ball spring seat and strut mount (see attached) from Motorsport. Anyone installed this set-up? Instructions on all parts are vague at best. The shocks have an aluminum sleeve that slides below the treads on the shaft, holds the bump stop? Concern, the original rubber insulator, not used on this set-up, the new spring seat mount and strut mount are metal on metal. Noise, vibration, banging or other? Would a thin piece of rubber between the two help? Any experience, tricks or advice would be great. Busted knuckles.

Hi All, So the only way to remove the rear wheel bearing locknuts is cut off the top pinched section? What a cluster! One time use parts?

Hi All, Thanks for all the pics and advice. Spent a 1/2 day measuring, remeasuring, again and again before drilling. Looks great but you can never count on the spoiler manufacture having exact tolerances. The spoiler is 1/4" wider (over hang rear fender) on one side from center point. Oh well with my OCD I'll only look at the driver side of the car.☺️ Great info on the rubber washers, will install. On to paint 901 silver.

Hi All, Jump into front air dam and rear spoiler. Neither purchase can with any hardware or instructions (I do read them), just the unpainted part. Air dam, can't mess that up but I was curious if there is a standard or proper location for the rear spoiler? Checked out a ton of pics, Is the answer flush with the hatchback lip? or should there be a space forward of the lip? Rear spoiler 432 style, two mounting bolts. Any diagram or advise would help.

Hi All, Big "Thank You" to Nomad, took the time to help another Datsun nut. 10 mins in my garage looking at the engine and discovered my throttle linkage was still slightly engaged, fixed. Pulled the distributor and adjusted the plate bolt so we had additional advancement on the timing and showed up with a set of SU, so he could explain the internal issues and working of the carbs. Engine is purring and we took the car out for it's maiden voyage (around the corner). Still need minor adjustments to the float levels as engine is running slightly lean but it's running. Where can I locate a new/used (working) vacuum advance for the distributor? VA is currently moving but too weak to advance the plate. Thanks to all who have given great direction on SU's.

Hi Nomad, That would be awesome. Love to see your car and your vision moving forward. Give me a call this weekend if you have the time. send me your contact info we'll and set a time. anwhiteford@att.net Thanks,

Hi All, You all are brilliant. The 240 roared back to life after a very long sleep. Adjusted all the linkage to neutral, high revs gone. I'm out about 3 3/4 - 4 turns on the air mixture nut. Backfiring and stalling gone, engine will hold a 700 - 800 idle. New issue, can't rev the engine, front carb backfires with the introduction of air and fuel. Rear carb reacts fine. Engine is now dieseling at shut off. These SU devil's are tricky to tune. Thanks for all the advice, Cheers.

Hi All, Yes, springs are attached. Not sure about the spacer and water response?. Spacer between carb to manifold? Not sure, I'll check. There are zero threads to adjust the ball linkage, would need to bend to shorten the length. Purchased that linkage, not original to the engine. Had to reinstall the old throttle linkage rod off the split balance tube on the early single tube. The single tube linkage rod was too short would not reach the linkage rod coupler from the firewall. It was my understanding on the balance linkage between carbs, only one balance adjustment screw (lower screw) was needed. Will disconnect the choke cables before cranking again. Thanks again for the info and advice.

Picture worth a thousand words. Not sure on the linkage. I'm fully advanced on the distributor (only position the car will start), same position when purchased. Thanks again.

All good stuff and a task for today. Need to deal with the high rev issues first, can't play with the timing or carbs adjustment before the need to shut down the engine. Will hunt for air leaks. Air cleaner / housing is not installed any issues with the vents on the carbs? Tried to keep the engine mods to a minimum until running but did replace the 73 split balance tube with an earlier version (single tube) and removed all emission, ERG and PVC valves. I retained all should I reinstall? New tube is fluid (old tube was fluid delete) and emission delete. California car. Thanks again for all the advice.

Hi All, 90 days of preparing the 1973 240Z (L28 engine) to breath again, asleep for 17 years. Read all the posts on 3 screw SU have the Ztherapy video as well. With all that said, the car has not cranked over in 17 years, little more complexed then a baseline tune up. Completed the basic fuel mixture setting on the SU's, 2 1/2 turns down. Car backfires out of both carbs. With minor advancements to the setting (richer) the car will progressively start quicker but still backfires (more from the front carb then rear). After an hour of stop, restart, minor adjustments to the carbs the engine now backfires (carbs), stalls and then revs at high rate, repeats the process, until the revs get too high need to shut down. Carbs just rebuilt and I reset the floats to spec. Is this a needle, jet, timing, other issue or operator error? Car specs, 1973 240Z with a L28 with a bunch of transplanted L24 parts. Distributor, L24 single point with a vacuum advance, rebuilt and installed. N42 head, B cam. I believe the 3 screw SU carbs and manifold (N33) are from the L24 engine, not sure? Any advice would be wonderful . Thanks.

Thanks for the info will review info and pics. Still can't get my head around the EGR valve and the bracket for idle adjustment screw. If I cap off the opening where /how do you remount the bracket? Is it needed? See pics One other question on the emission removal. The stainless line at the firewall end of the manifold, keep? plug? See pic. In my prep to start the engine, can you remove and replace the oil pan w ith the engine installed? How difficult? My last project that was sitting for a while, found a ton of sludge in the bottom of the oil pan. Would to clean prior to starting.

All, Thank you both. Great info and yes it appears the engine was swap but the 1973 240 manifolds and carbs were installed. I have the stock 240 air cleaner. Siteunseen - my exhaust manifold N33 has the EGR valve mounted right at the throttle linkage. There is a idle bracket and adjustment screw attached to the base of the mount. This EGR mount uses a gasket and has two studs coming out of the manifold attached with nuts, not bolts. Understand I can purchase a cover and cap off the mount area but how and where do your re-mount the idle bracket and adjustment screw? You can see it in the second photo. Thanks again.

Purchased a one owner 1973 240Z with a L28 transplant (car has not run since 1999). Restored a 1969 SRL 311 (once Datsun always Datsun), the emission removal in 69 was much different then mid to late 70's?, I'm not sure the year of the L28 engine in the car, N42 head. The owner had extensive documentation but the service contract back in 83 neglected to state the year of the L28 engine installed. My question is where can I find step by step instructions on emission removal, vacuum bypass or plugging diagrams. See engine pics attached (sorry had to throw my Roadster engine pic in as well, car is for sale). The value in the center of the manifold (with throttle linkage bracket and gasket), remove or not, plate to cove the manifold holes? Vacuum bypass? Wires connected to the censors (2)? Value in the hose connected to the air cleaner, same questions? Thanks all, any help will be appreciated.