Blitzed

Hi All, Yes, springs are attached. Not sure about the spacer and water response?. Spacer between carb to manifold? Not sure, I'll check. There are zero threads to adjust the ball linkage, would need to bend to shorten the length. Purchased that linkage, not original to the engine. Had to reinstall the old throttle linkage rod off the split balance tube on the early single tube. The single tube linkage rod was too short would not reach the linkage rod coupler from the firewall. It was my understanding on the balance linkage between carbs, only one balance adjustment screw (lower screw) was needed. Will disconnect the choke cables before cranking again. Thanks again for the info and advice.

Picture worth a thousand words. Not sure on the linkage. I'm fully advanced on the distributor (only position the car will start), same position when purchased. Thanks again.

All good stuff and a task for today. Need to deal with the high rev issues first, can't play with the timing or carbs adjustment before the need to shut down the engine. Will hunt for air leaks. Air cleaner / housing is not installed any issues with the vents on the carbs? Tried to keep the engine mods to a minimum until running but did replace the 73 split balance tube with an earlier version (single tube) and removed all emission, ERG and PVC valves. I retained all should I reinstall? New tube is fluid (old tube was fluid delete) and emission delete. California car. Thanks again for all the advice.

Hi All, 90 days of preparing the 1973 240Z (L28 engine) to breath again, asleep for 17 years. Read all the posts on 3 screw SU have the Ztherapy video as well. With all that said, the car has not cranked over in 17 years, little more complexed then a baseline tune up. Completed the basic fuel mixture setting on the SU's, 2 1/2 turns down. Car backfires out of both carbs. With minor advancements to the setting (richer) the car will progressively start quicker but still backfires (more from the front carb then rear). After an hour of stop, restart, minor adjustments to the carbs the engine now backfires (carbs), stalls and then revs at high rate, repeats the process, until the revs get too high need to shut down. Carbs just rebuilt and I reset the floats to spec. Is this a needle, jet, timing, other issue or operator error? Car specs, 1973 240Z with a L28 with a bunch of transplanted L24 parts. Distributor, L24 single point with a vacuum advance, rebuilt and installed. N42 head, B cam. I believe the 3 screw SU carbs and manifold (N33) are from the L24 engine, not sure? Any advice would be wonderful . Thanks.

Thanks for the info will review info and pics. Still can't get my head around the EGR valve and the bracket for idle adjustment screw. If I cap off the opening where /how do you remount the bracket? Is it needed? See pics One other question on the emission removal. The stainless line at the firewall end of the manifold, keep? plug? See pic. In my prep to start the engine, can you remove and replace the oil pan w ith the engine installed? How difficult? My last project that was sitting for a while, found a ton of sludge in the bottom of the oil pan. Would to clean prior to starting.

All, Thank you both. Great info and yes it appears the engine was swap but the 1973 240 manifolds and carbs were installed. I have the stock 240 air cleaner. Siteunseen - my exhaust manifold N33 has the EGR valve mounted right at the throttle linkage. There is a idle bracket and adjustment screw attached to the base of the mount. This EGR mount uses a gasket and has two studs coming out of the manifold attached with nuts, not bolts. Understand I can purchase a cover and cap off the mount area but how and where do your re-mount the idle bracket and adjustment screw? You can see it in the second photo. Thanks again.

Purchased a one owner 1973 240Z with a L28 transplant (car has not run since 1999). Restored a 1969 SRL 311 (once Datsun always Datsun), the emission removal in 69 was much different then mid to late 70's?, I'm not sure the year of the L28 engine in the car, N42 head. The owner had extensive documentation but the service contract back in 83 neglected to state the year of the L28 engine installed. My question is where can I find step by step instructions on emission removal, vacuum bypass or plugging diagrams. See engine pics attached (sorry had to throw my Roadster engine pic in as well, car is for sale). The value in the center of the manifold (with throttle linkage bracket and gasket), remove or not, plate to cove the manifold holes? Vacuum bypass? Wires connected to the censors (2)? Value in the hose connected to the air cleaner, same questions? Thanks all, any help will be appreciated.