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New question. seeing some chatter on-line about the 60 amp ALT putting strain on the on the headlight wiring harness and combo switch (steering wheel column) for running lights and headlights?

Thanks for the info.

Steve J, Yes will run a new fuel pump wire to the pump to the ECU wire . Goal is to disrupt the existing harness as little as possible. So would like to leave the fuel pump wire at the alt in place just disconnect. My kick panel does not have either relay. So if the relays do not exist does a FP wire to the VR exist?

Hi All, Hope everyone is healthy. EFI conversion is moving forward. Upgrading the alternator to MSA 60 amp kit with wiring harness connector. Config now: 1973 240Z fuel pump delete. Understand the fuel pump is connected to the VR or the alternator on 73. Question how do I terminate fuel pump connection with the new connector? The ECU installed has a 12v fuel pump wire through a relay and 15 amp fuse. So the fuel pump wire on the existing harness serves no purpose would prefer that is was not active. Already upgraded the fuse box. Thanks,

Haltech has a separate PDM module or the new Nexus unit is all in one. Really designed for race applications, running different fuels, NOS and boost. Purchased the Elite 750 good fit for a straight 6. Internal MAP sensor, wide band O2 is a separate module. The PDM would be nice for my in-tank fuel pump and injectors but overkill for the amps drawn on my application. Will just replace relays and fuses when they burn.

Understood, my original post to the thread seemed pretty dam relevant to the topic (73 240z relays), folks that aren't reading and just responding take responses off topic and down a rabbit trail.

Hi Zed, Will go through the bylaws on the site. Previously members suggested, search the site, info is here. Was not aware once you found the specific info responding to the thread was not an option? With a new thread started on each search of the site, the redundancy could be overwhelming. Thanks for the info on grounding. All ECU grounds are star grounded to the head.

Sorry, meant thermal related, spell check ; )

Hi Dutch, Yes, in the process of converting an NA L28 to a modern EFI system and the old girl is fighting me. No the car is not very special yet :). As many have previously done, adding a ECU (Haltech) and trying to not disrupted the existing harness as much as possible. Only four connection points to the old harness, tach, coil (delete wires), ignition wire and fuel pump. Engine starts, runs with the above wiring completed. What I'm fighting is component or components (relays, terminal) creating RFI noise, not good for the ECU connection. The Haltech CAN display in the dash stops working at start up. Could explain this a potential drop in voltage causing the problem, not sure yet. The ECU has a different issue will stay connected for various lengths of time but will discount from the PC (engine will continue ti run). Thinking this disconnect could be terminal related as the car warms up, maybe a terminal switch or relay gone bad???? It's a process of elimination.

Hi All, Hope all is well. Have a few relay related questions. 1973 240Z late production. First - My passenger side kick panel relay pic is below. Based on the diagrams in this post, the bottom relay is the Air Conditioner relay. I've removed the AC from the car and all switches. What would cause this idle relay to warm up when the engine is running? Second - Would any of the other three relay create noise? tracking down noise near my ECU, pausing. Third - I disconnected the relay on my firewall next to my grounding plate. I can't locate any info on this relay on this site. I found an article on a relay's on later Z's with Hitachi carbs that used a decel type of relay??? Not sure. But when disconnected had zero effect on the car.

Thank for the info. Will replace. Sorry thought I viewed screens on your ITB's in a previous post.

Hi Duffy, Build looks awesome, great job. Working out ALL kinks on my EFI conversion is where I live right now. Our builds are similar but different. Did you experience any noise or magnetic issues messing with the Haltech 750 ECU connection? Running a single HEI coil, sequential fire distributor. All ignition components are resistor style (plugs and plugs wires) and continuity testing proved within spec. Engine starts and runs perfectly but the ECU will disconnect from the PC after a min or so, engine continues to run fine. I can reconnect while the engine is running, same result disconnect. Added a Haltech CAN gauge in the dash the CAN will operate up to 1,000 RPM and then freezes. Will not come back up on until engine is shut off and ign switch is back to the on position. Much like your build the only wire spliced into the original harness is the black/white wire at the ign switch to the pink ignition wire to the Haltech harness. BTW- the stock 240z tach wiring in your log worked perfectly on this conversion as well. Where did you find the screens for your ITB horns? Thanks

Hi Zed, Thanks for the info. Yes, new external regulator install 2019, before the ECU went in, engine was running fine and the same battery was installed, wasn't burning through batteries. Maybe over thinking the reading and 15, not an issue? The voltage does changes when running a will drop into the low 14 to high 13 but will also reach 15 number. I'll check out the VR adjustment and take a look at the wiring at the alternator. Thank you

Hi Zed Head, From the ECU. The Haltech ECU provides a battery voltage non-run and running engine. Metered the battery with engine not running and voltage displayed from the ECU was very accurate, 12.38 volts not running (Optima Red top). When the engine is running the ECU is showing the voltage moving to 14.70 - 15.1 (red screen at 15+) warning for potential battery damage, ECU provide engine warning signals California car, outside air temp is 85-90 degrees when starting.

Hi Steve, Thanks, Haltech CS has been less than helpful. More for the experienced ECU installer and tuner. If they size you up as inexperienced, you're directed to the tech site and on-line support video's. That's ok, my goal is to fully understand the system, wiring and subtle nuances with the L series engine. Better scenario when you find yourself on the side of the road :).

Hello All, Need some help with Haltech Elite 750 ECU install, engine starts and runs well with all the new EFI ignition mods. Two problems have come up that may be related, not sure? First - Has anyone experienced the Haltech ECU disconnecting from the PC after engine start or ignition? Also installed a Haltech CAN gauge in the dash at 200 RPM the gauge freezes and reboots with disconnect of the ECU to PC. So I must have electrical noise at start up? Running NGK R plugs (resistor style), Taylor sprio pro wires (made for ECU applications). Could it be the new HEI coil (pic in this post upstream) with transistor igniter that's causing the noise? Cranking dwell setting at 4 per manufacture spec? Second - after the ECU disconnects from the PC engine will continue to run perfectly but the battery voltage is hovering around 15 volts. The coil is star grounded to the head not the battery. The only connection to the battery and coil is through the ECU coil wire and the ECU power wire to the battery. How can test the to see if the alternator is the problem with the voltage reading or not? Thank you for your help.

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Bless you friend, a solution. Thank you for the post and help.

Hi w3wikes, All good data. I've located the connector at the console, no issues there. Sorry, not familiar with the term "jumpering" . How do I jumper the console connector to activate the circuit? my last instructions were to meter the fuse and connector and determined which side of the fuse had the juice. left side of the fuse, no juice. Right side juice, so the connector is not part of an existing circuit. Never received a you're screwed, so just assume so. From another post about relay's on the passenger kick panel , assumed I'm missing components to complete the circuit. Are you suggestion another path to power the connector? Thanks for the info.

Hi SteveJ, Yes fuse was pulled but operator error forgot to reinstall the battery ground. Once the battery ground was installed, close to zero (.1,.2) on the left side for the black and white and larger reading on the right side. Green is dead both sides, yes un-terminated wire at the fuel tank connection.

SteveJ, Hope all is well. With all reinstalled and connected. Key in the off position. The green wire is dead from both side of the fuse holder. The black / white has continuity from both side of the holder. Right side registers a larger number .19 on the meter left side lower .12 ???????

Hi Patcon, Will do as soon as the fuse box is reinstalled in the car. As with most hunt for the unicorn it requires access to the harness. Assume this fuse box will carrier the same fuse location to check for continuity and same side of the fuse?