Ownallday

Thank you, just confirmed today that the itbs will bolt right up to the canon manifold no problem. Wanted to use this manifold since the manifold grabs vacuum from from every port so I can get a better MAP reading for tuning.

Good idea, I will send get in contact with them. Thanks!

Hello, I have triple Weber dcoe 40 at the moment. I plan on going fuel injection itb setup. My question is will the triple webers canon intake manifold bolt up and work with Jenvey ITBs (40s) or ITBs in general or is another manifold required?

Sounds like the 3.9 is the way to go then. my 280z typically ran at 3k rpm at 65 mph and it did not bother me at that rpm.

Thanks for the response, so a 3.9 would be a good option?

Hey guys, I recently sold my 1978 Datsun 280z and picked up a 1973 Datsun 240z. I plan on doing a manual swap with a 280z wide ratio 5 speed as I have a rebuilt one. Down the road I plan on doing a NA L28 build and push at least 250hp+ from it with an ITB setup but for now the L24 will have to do for the next two years. I live in California and the car will mostly see city driving, freeway driving but will also see the canyons pretty often in spirited driving and maybe a track day once every year. I am wondering what would be the best differential to pair with the type of driving I will do and my engine goals. I also plan on doing an LSD conversion for whatever diff I get. (Also if anyone can specify if they know what gearing a stock automatic 1973 240z came with would be appreciated).

Will do, I think it'll be fine I barely tightened the bearings about a quarter turn and used really good bearing grease. Just to be safe however you wouldn't happen to know what the max temp the bearings should be at?

We can finally celebrate! My steering wheel shaking is gone! I re-checked every single bolt in the front suspension (for the third time), removed the steering knuckles even and tightened the bolts for the bolt joints. Removed my wheels and removed all the rust on the hubs and backside of my wheels. However I think the fix was the front bearings! Even though I followed Nissans procedure for the wheel bearings I think they might be too loose for my suspension setup with hind joints and poly bushings. I tightened the nuts for the front bearings just a little more making sure the hub can still spin nicely obviously. All this and steering is solid! Crazy to think I went though two sets of bearings following Nissans procedure only for it to be the problem haha. To everyone with modified suspension and getting wheel shake, tighten the bearings! Thank you to everyone for helping! appreciate all of your for the help!

My lug nuts are tapered. I'm using the same lug nuts my friend used when he was running these wheels and he had no shake.

Quick update. Adjusting the tire pressure had no change or effect any where between 25 psi and 35psi with the steering shake. I finally got my wheel spacers that are also hub centric and no change to the vibration either. I went to double check for play and noise when moving the hub and even with the tire off I get a small clunk/thump sound when moving up and down. My wheel bearings and ball joints (Part of the TTT control arm) are maybe only two years old at best with less than 15k miles on both. You guys think the hubs could be bad? I am almost at the point now where I am just going to order TTT hubs with new bearings. Two videos of the noise below. Yes I know the surface rust on the rotor looks bad btw. Going to fix that soon. 20240409_100445.mp4 20240409_100418.mp4

I've tried anywhere between 30psi to 35psi and no difference. To the eye and feeling with my hand there are no noticeable flat spots. And I've already tried balancing the tires at work at least 10 times. One thing I will say is on the driver side I can here a slight click or tap noise when moving the tire in the same manner if you were to check for wheel bearings. However I cannot get that noise with the wheel off the car. This might be leading me to believe that the wheel studs might be ever so slightly too long and the lug nuts aren't 100% pressed against the wheel to the hub. The car has extended studs and were cut slightly but maybe they weren't cut enough for the wheels I have. I have a 5mm spacer coming so I can check when that gets here.

Thank you, yes I have psi right around 32 psi. I'll try an reduce tire pressure and see what results I get with that. I run a 225/45r15 and I have the technotoytuning control arms and tension rods. Maybe the combination with higher tire pressure and my hankook Rs4 the tire tread catches into the road surface aggressively? Anyways I'll reduce it to 25psi and see what the results are next week. Thanks for the tip.

Noted, going to be removing the wheels and looking into everything sometime next week. My wheels look like the lug holes have been repair sometime in the past I'll have to post some pictures of that. The only thing I have yet to replace in the front at this point is the wheels and tires (going to swap wheels and tires with a friend in two weeks if it's still isn't resolved), the steering rack, and the wheel hubs. Still haven't got rid of the vibration to this day. Also even though I replaced my struts and have lowering springs, not sure if it can still be that because if the road is perfectly smooth the wheel doesn't vibrate at all, but if there is any very minor road imperfections is when it vibrates at nearly any speed so it varies with road surface.

I know Z cars are lug centric and not hub centric. If the wheel is less than 73mm then in that case means the wheels wont sit completely flush against the hub? Or am I missing something.

Thought I would give a continuation and update to what I have found. I may have found the solution to my problem! Years ago my friend gave me his Enkei 92 Wheels from his Datsun 240z and this is what I have been running since then. I have just discovered the 280z hub bore size is 73mm while the Enkei 92 wheel bore size is 72.6mm!!! My wheels are not 100% flush against the hubs is what it looks like I am seeing here! After replacing nearly everything I think this might be it, but what is confusing is other people have used these wheels without problems apparently like my friend. Can someone give any insight? I might buy a hub centric wheel spacer to make sure this is the problem before buying other wheels as I just bought Watanabe wheels but they don't fit currently over my brake calipers and even then it shows Watanabe wheels are 63mm or 70mm so that's saying these wont fit either?