Ownallday

Thought I'd come and update. I replaced the belt (I noticed it was starting to tear a little) didn't fix the sound. I went ahead and finally got my starter delivered, installed it and sadly that was not the issue. My car does start a lot better and faster now though and it no longer hits my flywheel so that's a plus This Tuesday I will be performing a valve adjustment, taking off the oil pump and swapping with the old one, and getting the motor back at tdc when I reinstall everything and check timing again once that's all done. I will update then.

Yeah that was the only moment you can really hear it in the video. Sadly my dash decided to rattle on that drive. But yeah it's that rotational noise. I can only replicate that noise while driving and in gear. Timing I will get to most likely next week on Tuesday. I'm gonna throw motor back to tdc and perform a valve lash when I do all that. I'll update then.

Thought I'd share a video of the noise, I have a starter on the way but thought it be nice to get everyone's opinion on the noise. Skip to 50 second mark in the video. Recommend wearing headphones maybe

I'm sure the auto zone one wouldn't hurt. No harm as I know my starter should've been replaced when I rebuilt the motor. I believe its the only bolt on that hasn't been replaced yet on my car.

Yeah, didn't include that. I only tried messing with it to see if I can get the idle down which didn't work. Did not have the opportunity to remove the dizzy today sadly. I was able to look at the spark plugs though and confirm the car is running insanely rich for the most part. As for the sound issue I stated I think it might actually be my starter. I went to start the car today and the car made a really loud knock, I legit thought my motor somehow blew up and it made the sound again but less aggressive the second time trying to start it. It started the third time I cranked the car without making any noise. I think the mechanism that moves the starter back away from the flywheel might potentially be getting stuck or something. I am going to replace the starter anyhow since it's one of the few parts on the car I have yet to actually replace or restore. I will update whenever I have time to check timing again or replace starter whichever comes first.

Okay, I'll most likely just back track my work Tuesday. I tried adjusting timing yesterday but there was no change to my idle which was strange. I can't hear it in neutral, however it does get faster as the engine revs higher while driving. I only hear it while pressing the gas pedal too. That'll be the plan, I'll have to drive it one last time back to my job since I can lift the car easier there. I timed it a long time ago, actually a friend of mine timed it when he was getting a baseline tune for my triple webers. I had messed with it yesterday to see if changing it would decrease or increase idle and nothing changed I won't be driving the car, only going to drive it one last time on Tues to bring it to work to work on it. It has to be related to the oil pump or spindle is my guess or the timing. Basically gonna start from scratch most likely. I'll post whatever I find.

Okay I'll will tackle this on Tuesday if the problem isn't solved by then. Before prior I didn't hold the spindle from the top. One thing I should mention is I actually forgot to grease or lube the spindle and gear but not sure if that is necessary, I didn't do it when I rebuilt the engine. It doesn't sound like that. I can only hear it in the cabin while driving the car. To me it sounds more like potentially a tapping or clicking noise then a squealing noise or chirp noise. Belt is new wasn't making the sound prior to the oil pump Install and oil change. Which bearings specifically? I didn't grease or lube the oil pump spindle, not sure if that could be the cause?

Okay, I am going to call MSA before I do anything and ask them if that sound is normal and will check my spark plugs to see if I can see signs of possible ping. If the sound isn't normal and I see no signs of lean condition then I will reinstall my old one and see what changes Yes, I will do the above first and go from there. Tuesday would be the day I can throw the old one back on so I will update then

I was trying to avoid doing this because I don't see how replacing an oil pump can cause timing to go off. I haven't taken that off yet. My car ran really rich before replacing the oil pump so later today I'll check my spark plugs and see if they indicate if I'm running lean now or still running rich. I was gonna readjust valves next week but doubt that's the issue. If anything I'll probably throw car into tdc on Tuesday when I have time and check everything Yeah I know, but the only way timing would be set off is if I somehow moved the spindle and caused the distributor to turn too with it, but to my knowledge, isn't it really hard to rotate the spindle from the bottom to cause the distributor to rotate too? I've timed both before when I rebuilt my motor

Is that normal? To my ears an oil pump should not make noise like that at all even if it's a performance pump, it's really loud, can hear it even over my loud exhaust from inside the cabin. I forgot to mention I added something called "Engine Restore" which is suppose to help increase compression so maybe that's stuff worked and the use of thicker oil helped too lol. Or maybe my car is happier that its finally getting oil pressure? Is it possible for me to set off timing installing a new oil pump? I didn't mess with the dizzy, I just took off the oil pump and spindle that came out and installed the new one best I could with the spindle. Not sure what that meant either, I was just told to get this one or a turbo oil pump to fix my low oil pressure issue which so far its done that perfectly.

I definitely don't want the fast crickets. I can't afford another motor lol.

I just went to go adjust timing by ear and there wasn't a difference to my ears no matter how much I would retard or advance. the sound im hearing from the engine sounds like fast crickets, that's the best way I can explain the sound. I can also confirm the car feels a lot faster than before.

I only touched the oil pump and did an oil change lol. I was going to check timing tomorrow as I didn't have time today, i figured I might've somehow advanced the timing when I installed the oil pump and possibly I might be hearing ping? I run 91 octane in the car already.

I just installed a new Kameari High Performance Oil Pump to my 280z. I have an L28 with triple weber carbs. I installed it because I had no oil pressure at idle. I also threw in Rotella T6 5w-40 oil into the car as a ton of people recommended to use Rotella to me. Before I would use penzoil 10w-30 but the car would burn about a qt every 2k miles or so. Needless to say after doing this, the car idles amazing now and is insanely smooth now through the rpm range. Before my car drove like the webers needed a tune. It feels like my car might've just gained some power. Before the new oil pump my car would idle around 800 rpm, but after installing the oil pump the car now idles at 1200 (can't adjust weber idle screws to lower it too as its already the lowest it can go). Also I noticed some kind of sound coming from the engine that I can only hear above 3k rpm and only when I accelerate. I don't hear the sound when coasting. The sound kinda sounds like maybe a tapping noise or maybe a rotating noise, its hard to explain. Any ideas?

Yeah, I just came across that and said no way in hell am I paying that much for a dampener. I don't have the stock one so no way I can rebuild that, I'll shoot an email to him see what he can do, thank you If you have one in good condition you are willing to sell I am all for it.

Hello, I am in a slight pickle right now. I just ordered and received an Air Condition kit from AutoACSolutions and plan on installing the kit soon as the heat is unbearable in my car. I am unable to find any Harmonic Balancers for sale that have an extra pulley groove for an AC belt! I checked everywhere online and even saw one on Autozone that I ordered and the ordered got cancelled as the manufacturer doesn't make it anymore. The other option I see is potentially mounting up an addon pulley to my current balancer, I currently have the Performance Harmonic Dampener from Motorsport Auto (https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12d02a/10-2139) Is there maybe a way to addon another groove pulley to this? I see two open holes that can make it possible to bolt something up. Any suggestions?

Thanks I'll check the torque on those rods next time I get it in the air, I'm pretty positive it might be my steering rack, even though I changed to polyethylene bushings, the fitment was kinda weird and I noticed on the passenger side even after swapping my inner and outer tie rods, there was a very very small amount of upwards and downward movement on the passenger side

Okay so I only took one picture (sorry I was on a tight schedule to put the inner rods on). I can confirm zcardepot has the left and right side inner rods. I originally installed the outer moogs with my bad inner rods and just swapped to the new zcardepot inner rods today and they are the proper stock threads. Installed with no problems and most of my shake is gone, I still have maybe 10% left so now I'm a little lost, Ill have to just replace parts or rebuild parts I never touched yet

Ok, thanks, I will be setting up similar to yours then, I went ahead and ordered another catch can to hopefully match my engine bay nicely. Thank you for all your input. When I had the breathers on you can actually see more blow by coming from the valve cover breather which I thought was odd. Hopefully the addition of a catch can helps reduce the amount of blow by though and fumes and overall no more burning engine bays!

Wow that is one amazing engine bay! Yeah I was really scared especially when I opened my hood and the fire engulfed up, I am shocked to see no damage though, looks like nothing was burnt either. 3 Ports? How to do you have it setup? To my knowledge the crankcase hose should connect to the input and the valve cover hose connects to the output? Do you have the 2 input blocked off? I am actually in the works of making my own heatshield for the webers to hopefully help keep fuel leaks off if I have any. Thanks for the response, I believe this is how most people are running it too. Are you connecting the crankcase to the input or the output?

I have a 280z with an L28 and triple webers, I recently went to the track and my car caught on fire, it looked like the fire was coming from my headers or from the middle weber and the fire started about 3 minutes after I spun out and was idling for about 2 minutes in the pits. For now I want to assume the fire started due to oil dripping onto my headers after spinning out and the fire probably seeped through the middle weber and ignited there too. (The car is okay I drove it home two hours away with no problem just 2 hours after, nothing looks damaged and the car drove like nothing happened) I have a K&N breather for both the valve cover and the crank case portion on the block (PCV). I would like to add that during the fire the K&N breather on the block blew off (exploded off). Gonna assume it got clogged and pressure wasn't able to be released or something of that nature. I want to ditch these breathers and run an Oil Catch Can system asap before my next track day as it seems for normal street driving I don't have to worry much. I would like to know the best way to run it. I've seen 4 setups: 1: Running one catch can with two ports (one port is an inlet and other is an outlet with a filter on top) and the valve cover and crank case both have hoses going to the two ports separately. 2: Running one catch can with two ports (one port is an inlet and other is an outlet) and both the valve cover and crank case hoses connect to a T or Y fitting and then run to the inlet on the catch can with a filter on the outlet portion of the catch can. 3: Running one catch can with one port and a filter on top and both the crank case and valve cover have hoses that connect to a T or Y fitting and run into the one port in the catch can 4: Running two separate catch cans with filters on top, one catch can for the valve cover and the other catch can for the crank case I would also like to add that I do have a small amount of blow by and does fume up the cabin slightly so whichever system would be best to help reduce this would be appreciated or whichever system is the best overall to run.

Actually my bad, I am getting Cusco for the front with the tri bar option from T3. and T3 Tri bar for the rear. Before my sway bars upgrade, the rear end of my car would wobble really bad coming out of a turn. I got ST sway bars and the problem went away. I am sure there is some flex going on that I just can't feel but it's nice to know strut bracing will make a decent difference.

Sweet, thank you for the input. And compression was fine, I did a test about 3 months ago I remember all cylinders were around 140-160 which I know is low for a Z but shouldn't be extremely bad imo. Sweet thanks, I'll be ordering one later today then. Personally I like my engine bay to be clean, but if it means avoiding a fire I'll do it. And I actually just ordered TTT bracing, I honestly don't know if my chassis has a lot of flex or not but I definitely have a good amount of body roll

No damage done, the k&n breather I had for the crank case blew off but that's about it, drove the car an hour home after the incident. I have breathers/filters on the valve cover and pcv, I'm pretty sure oil was coming out of them when I was doing hard cornering so I'll have to get an oil catch can. You can see what I mean in the picture. Question do you know if I can run one catch can for both of would two separate catch cans be better?

I believe I already bought them at zcardepot, they were $20 a piece. I installed the outer tie rods (Moog) just the other day and had the car aligned, happy to say about 70% of my shake is gone but there was still the obvious inner rod play, just waiting to get those delivered with the boots. Only installed the outer tie rods because I had a track day yesterday, aside from a fire starting on my headers or one of my webers, the car ripped and handling felt a lot better too. I'll update with pictures when I get the inners on