Ownallday

I wasn't either, but their website has an option for left and right so I'm just assuming unless they are lying. I'll post pictures when I get them, I already have the outer tie rods I'll be installing at work today to see how much that helps with the shaking Yes, tires are pretty much new only ~2k miles on them. The wheels are enkei from my friends Z, he experience no wheel shaking. I recently balanced my wheels and did an alignment all is good. On both sides you can tell the outer tie rods are bad, but on one side you can see the inner tie rod moving and hear a clicking/clunking kinda noise when checking for wheel play from that inner tie rod. Boots are shot on both sides. I believe my car was in a small accident in the past might've messed them up. I left a video of the inner tie rod play 20210722_181812.mp4

My friend actually just told me this yesterday, he said to just get two Right hand threaded moogs. Found out my inner tie rods are actually bad yesterday when I inspected them. Apparently zcardepot sells the left and right side so I went ahead and ordered that and Moog outer rods. Hopefully after this I have no more wheel shake. Thanks for your response

Thank you, my car only has 75k miles or so but the outer tie rods are shot for sure. I'll be replacing just the outer tie rods tomorrow and redo my alignment aswell at work after that. Nice, I actually just upgraded to 4 piston front, SS lines and all that a week ago. I should've replaced my bearings but they seemed okay so I just repacked them. Just need a bigger master for the brakes. Do you have a link because it only shows one inner tie rod for me and to my mind that would mean Right hand for the driver side

Thanks for the reply, was actually probably going to go with just the moogs however I noticed they only make replacement for the stock inner tie rods which aren't made anymore so now I am debating whether to just replace the outer tie rods only with moog or if I should tackle the inners while I am there. How likely are the inner tie rods to go bad on these cars? If I can save some money that would be good. What I figured but spending another $100 on tie rods doesn't sound too comforting especially if there isn't even a difference. However I was going to replace my inner tie rod also but now I'm not sure if it's necessary or worth it, moog only makes outer tie rods for the oem inners

So my Datsun 280z has a pretty bad shake at the steering wheel above 35mph, I've narrowed it down to the inner and outer tie rods as they are the only suspension components I have not changed yet plus my right outer tie rod has visible play. My car has polyurethane bushings all around and TTT suspension from lower control arms and what not. My question is, is there any noticeable steering feel difference between the Moog outer tie rod and the TTT outer tie rod? I know they use different bushings obviously, is that enough for a difference in feel or is the difference so minimal that its not worth the extra money? I do drive my car spiritedly in the Canyons and occasional track days.

I finally went ahead and got a MSD 6AL with a tach adapter. Not sure if I gained anymore power but the car is definitely a lot smoother especially in the higher rpm range and I noticed a lot less fumes.

I am more than positive both have been changed my friend just can't remember to what so I posted whatever my webers came with for now, the car definitely runs a little more on the rich side with how he tuned it

Okay, I can 100% confirm most likely the oil pressure sensor or gauge is bad. Perfect oil pressure readings from the mechanical gauge.at idle sitting right around 10 PSI at 900 rpms idling. Guess I will just live with it for now as I've already thrown too much money into the car over the last two years I've owned it. Sorry for a super late response as I been too busy to work on the car

I can confirm that before upgrading to the MSD, holding the throttle wide open and cranking for about 10 to 15 seconds would get the car to start. However I completely solved the issue by upgrading to an MSD Ignition 6AL. Now the car only takes about 2 to 3 seconds to start when hot which seems pretty normal for me with triple weber. A lot smother acceleration now at top end especially and also noticed less fumes in the car. Definitely a worthy upgrade. I'd appreciate hearing what you jet selection is. Here is my setup, this is what my friend who tuned them remembers off the top of his head so may not the 100% I believe the idle jet and Emulsion Tubes are different. Main Venturi - 30 Aux Venturi - 4.5 Main Jet - 120 Emulsion Tube - F11 Air Corr Jet - 200 Idle Jet - 45F9 Pump Jet - 50 Pump Exh - 50 Needle Valve - 1.75

Next time I get to driving the car I will leave the throttle open for 10 seconds flat and test the results of that again. If anything I think the fuel level is fine because the car starts right back up when cold without me even priming the the fuel pump. I will check however when I get to drive the car again. It's an L28 with a stock E88 head cam. I will do that once I get around to driving the car again. The bogging is no longer and issue, my friend popped in some bigger jets and retuned the webers and now the car runs near perfect in the lower rpms. If he remembers what size jets he put I will post back here

I haven't noticed any leaks but I would find it hard to believe it would be leaking after a couple of months. I have the two pin connector however one of the wires was for the ecu module which i never had so its only the one wire now going to the gauge. and no red control light or anything. Didn't know if something like this would work but worth a try, just ordered it I will test hopefully sometime this week when it gets delivered. I really don't want to move towards aftermarket because I like the look I currently have. Just ordered a gauge, I will post once I install and do some testing. My gauge reads below 0 at idle when the engine is hot so it almost seems as if the gauge isn't working until I start driving. At idle when the engine is hot, the gauge reads below 0 on the stock pressure gauge in the interior, basically like as if the gauge isn't working or the car is off, the moment I start driving the gauge instantly works its way back up above 10 psi. I have a mechanical gauge on the way, I will update the results once I get to testing. I believe I have the stock l28 oil pump. I never changed it and not sure if the previous owners ever changed it or upgraded.

So I've had my 280z for about two years now. I have always had low oil pressure for some odd reason when I idle and the car is warm. This issues continued after changing to a new oil pressure sensor, and continued even after installing a rebuilt e88 head and swapping to triple webers. If I start the car cold, oil pressure gauge usually sits about halfway or a tad above with the car idling about 1000rpms. With the engine hot and driving the oil usually goes up about 5 to 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. The weird thing about my issue is when the engine is warm the gauge drops below 0 psi at idle acting like the gauge isn't even working. I have yet to find a solution to this. Any ideas? Or is it nothing to worry about considering the car has been running like this for two years? I can physically see a stream of oil getting to my cam when I pop the valve cover cap so I know the head is getting oiled.

I have a custom heatshield in the works as we speak. I figured heat must have some part take with this issue. I have three friends with triples, none of them run a return line but they don't experience the heat soak issue I do. All three of them however have a heat shield and an msd ignition. This week I should be installing the custom heat shield and msd ignition. I have seen people run no heat shield or even wrapped headers and still run their cars fine without issues. I can mount a fuel pressure gauge. I will order one sometime this week. I have not checked the fuel level. I am still pretty new to webers so still learning the ins and outs. And its pretty much any rpm below 2500 but this issue was resolved after my friend put some new jets in and retuned the webers It starts after about 15 to 20 seconds of cranking sometimes. Other times no luck. Doesn't matter if my foot is fully to the floor or not, it struggles to start. I have not noticed fuel dripping but I did in the past when I first got my weber

Hey guys, back with another question. Recently switched over to Triple Webers back in December. Loving the setup so far, still in the process of tuning them as they don't like open throttle in lower rpms. I am currently having an issue with starting the car after driving for a couple minutes. The car starts up pretty good for three carbs when cold, usually starts right up on the second crank. However she will not start after driving for a while and hot. Example, I drove the car recently for about 20 minutes, pulled up to a gas station to fill up the tank which took approx 2 minutes to do, then I try an start my car right after and the car wont turn on, doesn't matter if I open the throttle a little or all the way open it just struggles to start. I had to sit and wait about 10 to 15 minutes to finally get the car to start again. Is the gas evaporating in the webers and I just need to prime a little longer to refill? I currently do not have a heatshield in between my webers and headers but my headers are wrapped. My first consideration is to make a heatshield for the webers and add heat reflective tape at the bottom of each weber also. Should this be enough or are there other things at play here?

Good to know. I will pickup F7 emulsion tubes before my tune

Thanks for the input! Seems like most people are running F7 Emulsion tube on 40s even my friends so I might have to get that. Are you running 40DCOE?

Wow that changed real quick, and here Top End states their baseline Jetting is about 80-90% there lol. Thanks for the input Thanks for your input. I'll look into both Main Jets as when it comes down to tuning I can have both sizes ready. Ill see if If its worth while to get the idle jet before the tune Yes it is a 40DCOE 151 all 3 of them are the same and brand new My friend helped me with the webers install and after installing I can confirm the first 3 from your list were already done and working perfectly as explained. 4 will come when I get them tuned. I won't be tuning them.

Hello everyone, I just completed building my 1978 Datsun 280z Motor with pretty much all new or rebuilt parts besides the block. I'll run down everything I have and have done. -Stock L28 N42 Block with dished pistons (not rebuilt or anything) -Rebuilt Late E88 Head, Ported, 1.2mm head gasket -Brand new Triple Weber 40 DCOE from TopEndPerformance with the Canon manifold -Brand new 3-2-1 headers from TopEndPerformance which I also wrapped with header wrap -280zx Dizzy "upgrade" with E12-80 box -Carter fuel pump -Also fully rebuilt 5 speed Transmission (Long gear ratios) -Planning on getting the MSD Ignition Soon I got the car running (extremely loud as its open headers atm) didn't have to adjust the Weber's really besides to get the idle down, drove the car and definitely have to ease into the gas, straight full throttle the car stumps for a second, could just be the car wasn't fully warmed up. My questions is if the Jets TopEndPerformance provided with the Weber's are perfect for my setup and what some of you guys think should be changed? I am very new to the Weber game and plan on learning how to tune these things properly in the future but for now I definitely would like some guidance before I get tuned. I will list below the Jets provided with these Webers Main Venturi - 30 Aux Venturi - 4.5 Main Jet - 115 Emulsion Tube - F11 Air Corr Jet - 200 Idle Jet - 45F9 Pump Jet - 40 Pump Exh - 50 Needle Valve - 1.75 I will keep this post updated as I get my webers tuned and change out the jets

Haha, not a bad idea. Ill most likely just save for the 6AL, I plan on doing it very soon anyways. I don't like finding posts without a solution so I will always post the solution on my threads. Thanks for the help, now to make a new thread if my jetting is proper for my Engine setup

Well it came down to the coil! Put the stock one back on, fired up the car and what do you know, tach now shows where my car is idling at! So my question is, if I want to stick with the MSD unit, could I just add a potometer or a resister to the blue Tach wire and get it to work like that? To my knowledge I was told to upgrade to MSD or something similar with the ZX dizzy and Triple weber setup. I plan on getting the MSD 6AL in the future so I know once I do that my tach will need to be hooked up completely different.

Okay that's what I figured, couldn't exactly remember. so I should remove the Black/White wire on the positive terminal since its not doing anything. Engine starts perfectly and runs perfectly despite having new untuned webers out of the box. Spark is extremely good too. The Tach does twitch when turning the key to the on position which it use to do with the stock setup. Okay I will test the old coil later and let you know if the results are the same or different. My car is open headers atm so im not trying to wizz off the neighbors with multiple constant starts haha. So the coil could be at fault here? I heard most people don't have problems using the MSD coil however but I am unsure

Oh okay, I see. I don't have any spare condensers then. Right side of the coil is negative with the blue wire connected for the tach and the black wiring going to the dizzy. On the left side of the coil the positive side has the white wire going to the dizzy and a black/white wire which was originally connected to the old coil going into the wiring harness. These are the only wires currently setup to the coil The two wires I am talking about that I have hanging were originally in this spot. They are going into the wiring harness.

Yes I have mine unplugged for the meantime. Made no difference with it plugged though. Tuesday I will test it all out. This is somewhat what I am leaning to also. I will test resistor on Tuesday once I get my voltmeter but my guess is the resistor is fine Is this the condenser you are talking about, it's the only one I have? Funny thing as its not connected to the coil at all. Something I just noticed is my two old positive and negative coil wires are just sitting hanging out of the wiring harness. Could this have anything to do with the Tach not working on low rpms as the guide doesn't exactly mention anything about using the old coil wires and not sure it makes a difference since I switched to Triples.

Okay, I will search for it so I can at least test when I get my voltmeter. At this point it seems most likely the E12-80 box like you said, Exactly, had my car for 2 years still don't know all the in's and outs. Okay, I will wait till Tuesday when I get my voltmeter to test it.

Where is the resistor located for the 78 280z Tach? I don't have my voltmeter to check at this time but would like to see if bypassing it does anything if possible