Usain_Boat
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Well thank you for the help everyone! The car is back to it's normal self. In the future I will be more mindful of this air gap when problems arise again. Though with old cars, I doubt it will be the same problem twice.
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Yes, after resetting the air gap on the pickup coil, it runs again. I plan to test the old HEI as I assume it is still good.
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The coil negative is the blue wire that goes to terminal C and positive is the black that goes to the B terminal. The screw that is on the grounding lug shows 0 Ohms to ground, so I believe it is properly grounded. The heatsink is mounted where the old junction from the pickup coil was, as the transistor ignition unit it led to is no longer in the car.
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It was the pickup coil too far out. Is there a torque spec for those screw, or are they just a thing to check occasionally? I remember gapping this not too long ago. Just for my piece of mind, the HEI is installed correctly for being a '78?
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I have changed it, but it appeared to die immediately. Should I get another to try again?
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Hey all, I did the transistor ignition unit upgrade as described here: Given this though, I have had some problems after doing it. Given that I have a '78 I don't seem to have a resistor below the ignition coil but I think I wired the HEI module in correctly. I think it is correct since it ran for over 6 months, and the last 7 weeks of that was the car being driven daily. On the 7th week though, problems began. The car became slowly harder to start taking longer and longer to crank until it eventually stopped firing all together. I have checked and the car has fuel and air, just no spark. Seeing this, I replaced the HEI. After replacing the HEI the car stumbled as if it would fire and then resumed cranking with no spark. So, have I installed the HEI correctly for a '78 280z? If so, what else could be killing HEI modules when I replace them? I have attached pictures of my module installed:
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I have finally narrowed down a shake in my steering wheel and bounce in my car to the 41 year old aluminum wheels. These issues, along with having to run a spacer for one of my Toyota 4x4 Calipers has led me to look for new wheels for the Z. I'm looking at the Konig Rewinds and Rota RB's but don't know what size and offset I should get to fit the car as best as possible. If anyone has upgraded to these wheels or has advise in general, I would love the feedback.
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So I bought another wheel and it balanced well meaning there are two good wheels in the front. Even with this there is still a shake in the steering wheel. What are possible causes of this? I have replaced all the bushings with polyurethane, replaced the shocked, and replaced the wheel bearings. I know I have torqued everything to spec though the bearings could be checked again.
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Update: The wheels are bent in the center and cannot be fixed, so this leads to more questions. I have done the Toyota S12+8 front brake upgrade and have stock fenders with zero plans for flairs. Given this, what wheel size / offset would be recommended for me to be able to just bolt on?
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So the one caveat to this whole thing is that the original person that looked at them said they weren't repairable. I'm not sure if it's because they didn't have the tools or if they are literally that bad. I'll just have to have them looked at.
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- aluminum wheel
- bent
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Ok, thank you.
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So that's the kind of advice I was looking for, should I just be asking around for a place that straightens wheels?
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I've been fighting a wobble in my steering for a while on my '78 280z and took my wheels to be balanced again. One wouldn't balance right so two of the wheels stayed to be looked at by wheel repair man. Now I know that the rear diver side wheel is bent and the front one is bent less badly. I have the 5 slot aluminum wheels that I believe were offered as a dealer option so I'm not exactly what wheel I should be looking to buy. So, if anyone has been through this sort of situation any advice on how to fix the wheels / what wheels I should be looking for to replace mine.
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I found one on Amazon that was M12x1.25 and it fit, so all good now.
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I recently took off the Castle nut that holds the tie rod to the knuckle and the threads got messed up. I bought a replacement M12x1.25 castle nut but it is too tall for the cotter pin to be used. Does anyone know where I can buy one of the shorter style castle nuts? Or should I just buy a M12x1.25 tap? Here is the new vs. old, as you can see the new is about twice as tall.
