Usain_Boat
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Everything posted by Usain_Boat
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Well thank you for the help everyone! The car is back to it's normal self. In the future I will be more mindful of this air gap when problems arise again. Though with old cars, I doubt it will be the same problem twice. -
Yes, after resetting the air gap on the pickup coil, it runs again. I plan to test the old HEI as I assume it is still good.
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The coil negative is the blue wire that goes to terminal C and positive is the black that goes to the B terminal. The screw that is on the grounding lug shows 0 Ohms to ground, so I believe it is properly grounded. The heatsink is mounted where the old junction from the pickup coil was, as the transistor ignition unit it led to is no longer in the car.
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It was the pickup coil too far out. Is there a torque spec for those screw, or are they just a thing to check occasionally? I remember gapping this not too long ago. Just for my piece of mind, the HEI is installed correctly for being a '78?
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I have changed it, but it appeared to die immediately. Should I get another to try again?
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Hey all, I did the transistor ignition unit upgrade as described here: Given this though, I have had some problems after doing it. Given that I have a '78 I don't seem to have a resistor below the ignition coil but I think I wired the HEI module in correctly. I think it is correct since it ran for over 6 months, and the last 7 weeks of that was the car being driven daily. On the 7th week though, problems began. The car became slowly harder to start taking longer and longer to crank until it eventually stopped firing all together. I have checked and the car has fuel and air, just no spark. Seeing this, I replaced the HEI. After replacing the HEI the car stumbled as if it would fire and then resumed cranking with no spark. So, have I installed the HEI correctly for a '78 280z? If so, what else could be killing HEI modules when I replace them? I have attached pictures of my module installed:
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I have finally narrowed down a shake in my steering wheel and bounce in my car to the 41 year old aluminum wheels. These issues, along with having to run a spacer for one of my Toyota 4x4 Calipers has led me to look for new wheels for the Z. I'm looking at the Konig Rewinds and Rota RB's but don't know what size and offset I should get to fit the car as best as possible. If anyone has upgraded to these wheels or has advise in general, I would love the feedback.
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So I bought another wheel and it balanced well meaning there are two good wheels in the front. Even with this there is still a shake in the steering wheel. What are possible causes of this? I have replaced all the bushings with polyurethane, replaced the shocked, and replaced the wheel bearings. I know I have torqued everything to spec though the bearings could be checked again.
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I've been fighting a wobble in my steering for a while on my '78 280z and took my wheels to be balanced again. One wouldn't balance right so two of the wheels stayed to be looked at by wheel repair man. Now I know that the rear diver side wheel is bent and the front one is bent less badly. I have the 5 slot aluminum wheels that I believe were offered as a dealer option so I'm not exactly what wheel I should be looking to buy. So, if anyone has been through this sort of situation any advice on how to fix the wheels / what wheels I should be looking for to replace mine.
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I found one on Amazon that was M12x1.25 and it fit, so all good now.
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I recently took off the Castle nut that holds the tie rod to the knuckle and the threads got messed up. I bought a replacement M12x1.25 castle nut but it is too tall for the cotter pin to be used. Does anyone know where I can buy one of the shorter style castle nuts? Or should I just buy a M12x1.25 tap? Here is the new vs. old, as you can see the new is about twice as tall.
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Well it's definitely not the prettiest soldering job I've done but it's done and the car runs correctly! I also checked the other splices around it and they were solid but a little corroded so I just put some dialectric grease on them and taped it all back up.
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My plan was to look after I fixed this splice. Currently trying to solder the connection but I can't get enough heat into it to flow the solder. All I had was a 15W Radioshack iron so I bought a 100W harbor freight gun (I know not great quality) but I still can't get the whole joint to heat up and flow. I'm using quite a bit of flux too.
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Exactly my thought too. The reason it was so intermittent was probably caused by the car jiggling on the road and the resistance on that section causing it to heat up and expand just enough to mask the problem.
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That's right below the fusible link blocks where that section meets up with the main section of the harness.
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Found the problem! When I cut back the tape the crimp for the white wires for the problem circuit fell apart. What is the best way to repair and recrimp this area? Also notice how much corrosion there is.
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I haven't exactly found the problem but narrowed it way down. I jumped the supply side of the fusible link for the trouble circuits to the + on the battery and it has stopped dying. My next step is to unwrap that section of wiring harness and look for the issue.
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Around .5 Ohms to ground where my leads have a resistance of .2-.3 Ohms. I understand that I'm losing current just baffled as to where. It stops dying in reverse with the flasher fuse pulled or the reverse switch pulled, yet I have physically traced the reverse circuit and nothing is grounded out. Also even with the reverse circuit disconnected the left tun signal still kills the car.
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That ground looks clean to me, no corrosion and good continuity to ground.
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I had to unplug both bulbs for it to turn on again, though I didn't try just pulling the dim bulb.
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Yes, sorry for not clarifying. Switching the trans out of reverse or unplugging each bulb individually will return power to the wire.
