mbz

So.... what is your asking price? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good points, but I'm trying to stay as conservative as possible on the actual resale value. I think $25k is pretty reasonable and a very attractive price point. But like I said, I told the seller my buying price, if he wants to sell it to me he knows where I am. If he wants to sell to someone else and get more money, good for him I applaud his efforts.

Yes, I see comparable vehicles in respectable condition selling for about $25k on the high end. Considering the frame rail and floor pan work, the paint prep and paint job work, plus other mechanical and interior work, it would put me right about at that $25k range. Which means I would have to put in quite a bit of time and money without any significant margin potential when finished. I told the seller at what price I’m a buyer and to call me if he ever decides to sell at my offer price. As it stands right now, he’s about double my offer price.

Anyone got an ID on these wheels and possible value?

Hey guys, so I got some info from a friend of mine over at Hakone Motorsports.... based on the attached photo, he thinks I'd be looking at not only replacing both frame rails but also possibly the floor pan on the drivers side as well. Looks like I could be in for $2000 - $2500 worth of repairs. Which means I'll be passing on this purchase because the asking price is just too high when considering the repair expenses required.

How much money does a trip down the frame rail rabbit hole cost? ie; "If you're going to fix one frame rail, you may as well fix the other while having the work done, thus it will cost $XXXX amount per rail and about $XXX amount to have both done." OR - maybe the answer is more like "Just do a spot repair on the rusted part and it will only cost $XXXX amount" It seems to me that the frame rails are pretty darn important, especially if you want to be able to put the car up on jack stands and work on it. It looks like a frame rail replacement kit on MSA costs $505 after tax. What kind of labor costs are involved with welding in new frame rails? Depending on what it costs, it may or may not make the vehicle worth purchasing.

Hi All, Open question to the group, looking for info on the cost of frame rail repair/replacement. I am considering purchasing a '73 240z, however during initial inspection I found that the back end of the frame rail on the driver's side is rusted / rotted out. It looks like it needs to be repaired or replaced. I am trying to factor the cost of fixing the frame rails into the value of the vehicle, but I really have no idea what it would cost. Should they just be repaired? Should they be replaced? If I fix one side, should I fix the other side? Input is requested and appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Had the pleasure of meeting jayhawk today at the JCCS and saw the finished Z car.... motorman7 did an incredible job restoring this vehicle. This car was hands down the best OE restoration vehicle at the entire show. Every detail was nailed spot on! Here's a few pics that don't even come close to doing justice to this incredible restoration. If any forum members get a chance to see this car in person you are in for a real treat. This is a museum quality vehicle. Kudos to you both and to your body/paint guy.... amazing work!

Maybe reach out to this guy.... https://www.f40.com/Meet_Wayne_Carini He specializes in dusty unicorn barn finds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi, I have a 76' 280z (steering wheel mounting hardware looks identical to your photo above), and the horn pad is triggered by a smaller copper spring in a rigid rubber tube under the horn pad mounting bracket. I know there are some changes between 75/76 and 77/78 model years, so the horn functionality of your car may be different than mine. I believe the wire is for the 240z steering wheel and horn pad mounting bracket. Is the parts illustration exploded diagram above for a 240z or 260z? Try checking the fuse box first if you haven't done so already. I think it's a 10A fuse for that slot, but check the 1977 z car FSM to be sure. Here's a link to download it for convenience: Then check for the actual horn itself to be sure it is there. Then try looking for the little copper spring under the steering wheel horn pad mounting bracket. I hope this helps.

Found this on Petrolicious just now, pretty cool. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh... forgot to mention, one quick test that helped confirm running rich (besides pulling spark plugs), when the engine is running, take off the oil filler cap on the valve cover.... see if that makes the engine run better or worse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just had a similar problem, I hope this can help: The issue for me was there was a bad (worn out/old) connector cable going to the water temperature sensor. DaveWM was super helpful in walking me through a logical step by step process of troubleshooting the problem. Maybe reach out to him for some guidance. First started with checking fuel pressure, both BEFORE the return line (could be fuel pressure regulator), and AFTER the return line to see if there is blockage in the return lines to the tank. Be sure you have a good fuel pressure gauge made for Bosch fuel injection systems. I had a bad gauge that caused a lot of problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In case you haven't found this yet, here a link to the FSM downloads: https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/11-240z/ It may come in handy when taking apart the grill.

Yes of course do your due diligence for your own piece of mind and confidence. That car looks to be awfully close to 100%, do the rust checks as previous guys have indicated in this thread. My brother in law is a Miata guy, I've driven his... compared with the Z, personally I'd take the Z car. They have a way of growing on you quickly. ? Congrats again! I love to see people do well!

You got a great deal. You could flip it for instant cash, or hang onto it and enjoy it. Personally I would opt for the latter, but either way you came up big! Congrats! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I did drive her up to the burger spot that she died at last time..... so sweeeeeeet. (except for that bouncy worn out suspension). ?

OK guys.... one last time. All good threads must come to an end.... even though this thread was not so good, it's time has come. The issue is fixed and DaveWM gets the kudos for figuring it out. (Dave "Z Oracle")! ?? Thank you for your methodical approach and patience while this got sorted out. The issue was the cable from the bullet connectors to the Water Temperature Sensor connector. (not the WTS itself). A $6 replacement cable from AutoZone fixed the issue and the car is running better than ever! Thanks again everyone for your help! Much appreciated and I'll reach out next time I need expert advice!

You just can't help yourself, stay off my threads Zed.... we had an understanding.

Pat, he's been harassing me throughout this whole thread and has not been very helpful at all. I tried to end this thread on a positive note, despite that fact that it got very, very sideways because of my ignorance. I thanked everyone for their help and closed out the thread nice and clean. But ZH just had to come back and make unnecessary comments and steer the thread straight into a wall. He didn't need to enter those last comments, but like he said..... he just couldn't resist. And then when he gets some push-back from me, he gets upset. Seems like he can dish it out but can't take it in return. So I was the bigger man and took down my comments because I can see that it upset him and he did not find it funny. But then he just keeps on going, trying to rile up a confrontation. Very petty and has absolutely nothing to do with fixing cars. Some people don't know when to quit. So again...... I'm going to try and close this thread out on a positive note and say thank you to everyone for their help and insights, I truly appreciate it. I'm sure I'll have more questions for you guys once I get into repairing / restoring other parts of this car. Thanks to you all, another old Z is back on the road and I'm enjoying having a Z car back in my garage after a long 27 year wait. Thank you!

Zed, I just blocked you. Goodnight.

OK Zedd, I'll play nice and make a deal with you.... I'll take down the picture if you stay off my threads, and I'll stay off yours. Sound fair? We can be like 2 ships passing in the night.

It's running good, I pulled the plugs this morning and they look kinda white/grey at the tips, not black like before when running rich. Not yet, but it's on my list of calls this week. That thought crossed my mind and I do want to know what he did so I can "UNDO IT" if needed. Happy Easter all, thanks again for the much appreciated help!

Absolutely! The equipment was faulty, however I think the procedures were sound as they yielded good results with different equipment. Exactly! I don't think the PO's Mech. did anything wrong or dubious or acted with malintent. Quite the contrary, he's a solid mech. that was doing what his client paid him to do... get it to pass smog and sell it. The PO's Mech. is actually a pretty solid dude with a wealth of Z knowledge and experience. I've spoken with him several times and he's given me the full service records going all the way back to 1976. I don't find any fault with him, he's trying to run a business and a good one at that. Like you said C.O. it's just an old Z and these problems come with these cars. Case in point, yesterday I "fixed" the inspection lamp... the bottom just needed to be cleaned so a solid ground connection could be made (I still need to fix the toggle). I'm sure I will find many more electrical connections and hoses that need replacing. I'll be monitoring the running rich issue more closely now, I want to ensure it will pass smog EVERY TIME. The good news is, I have about 2 years to sort it all out! ?

All good threads must come to an end.... even though this thread was not so good, it's time has come. The issue is fixed and DaveWM gets the kudos for figuring it out. (Dave "Z Oracle")! ?? Thank you for your methodical approach and patience while this got sorted out. The issue was the cable from the bullet connectors to the Water Temperature Sensor connector. (not the WTS itself). A $6 replacement cable from AutoZone fixed the issue and the car is running better than ever! Thanks again everyone for your help! Much appreciated and I'll reach out next time I need expert advice!