moozieman

Appreciate the advice ill take another look. It appears as tho one of the temp components is actually broken off.

How should I test for a short? It’s usually unplugged because of how rough it runs when it’s plugged in.

I’m confused. This test is for water temp sensor? (Which btw, my thermotime and water temp are unplugged) (it doesn’t run otherwise.)?

It runs and drives decent fine with brand new plugs, but they only last about 8 miles MAX.

this car is giving me so many issues. Doesn’t accelerate over 2k and dies on hills, not to mention it burns through spark plugs. IMG_1232.MOV

I had mentioned this in a previous thread, the previous owner plugged up the breather port on the block with a freeze plug. Therefore I have no pcv valve. I added that filter up top to act as my vent

Looking to address this weird “chugging” air noise on my 78 280z. I’ll attach a video. Take a listen and let me know what u think.? IMG_1072.MOV

I do have the condenser. Assuming that this wire IS the bcdd, could that be causing an issue with my idle?

Actually, i just realized it might be off of my bcdd. A possible answer to an idle issue that I’ve had. It’s almost as though the car has “two” idles. Spends 10sec at 1500 then will drop to 800 for 10secs. This is a completely different subject, but the fluctuating idle just came to mind. Thought?

I'm working on putting my 1978 280z back together and I found a random wire and have no clue where it goes. Posting it here might be a longshot due to the lack of information I have but I thought i'd try. There is a white w/ black stripe wire coming out of the harness that runs under the ignition coil on the drivers side. In the middle of that wire is a bullet connector that transitions the white/black to an all black wire. Then it appears to be torn off of something. I cant find any "white blacks" in the schematics and the only clue I have is that it is a live wire- It sparks when I ground it. Like I said, its in the general vicinity of my ignition coil. Thought it might have gone to the resistor underneath, but I have come to find that the 280 didnt have those. Any ideas?

Okay. As long as it's not hurting anything, I'll leave it alone for now and eventually fix it back to stock. It has around 120k miles on it. And yeah ik i wasted money haha. Cuz with the breather blocked off on the block, now I have to block the pcv too cuz it's just sucking in air. One more thing, I've attached a screenshot from another forum... Is this accurate? Like I said, I thought it was one or the other.. Kinda thinking that having two openings is gonna mess up the idle if it idles at all.

Yep. I think that answers everything. I just recently found out about that plug and up until this point have had the system "closed" with the stock hose setup and everything. I essentially need to pick one way or another- the stock setup with the crankcase breather + pcv OR have a breather filter on the valve cover and eliminate the pcv. Yeah? Any potential blowby can still be caught?

So my question.. Why would I want to run it open like dave suggests? and how should I go about removing that cap and getting that pipe back on? Is the hole threaded?

I was under the impression that the engine would not run with an open valve cover. Isn't that a vacuum leak?

Here's the thing, my current setup has doesn't have a filter on the valve cover. I have the stock hose that connects somewhere around the throttle body. My point is that it's not open. Is that a problem? I didn't think it would run with the valve cover hose taken off. If there's not upside, I don't understand why someone blocked off that breather valve.