moozieman

Okay I'll look into it again. I appreciate your help and your patience. What I had done was touched the red lead to the positive battery terminal and the black lead to W72 and read 0V.

Im with my car right now. Luckily, the short doesn’t appear to have affected anything. Thank god! I going through your instructions now. I'm looking at the wiring leading up to the efi relay. I'm not reading anything off of W72. I have my multimeter on the battery and on W72. And when i say in the cabin, I mean under the passenger seat

While doing some relay troubleshooting, I accidentally sent 12v through W34 (the ground wire on the air regulator) I saw sparks for a split second a pulled the wire off. This wire is a ground going up to terminal 34 on the ecu. How much damage did I just do??!

I was able to work on it a little over the weekend and heres what I found... I tried jumping 12v straight off the battery and into W48 and when I did this, I finally began reading voltage on the fuel pump wires in the cabin! So I know that the error is before this. What would be my next item on the agenda? Also, what would I do if i shorted 12v through the ecu? My buddy whos helping me said he saw "sparks" which can only mean bad things. If it was shorted, would it just blow a fuse? After I thought that I might have shorted it, I quickly moved the wire over to W48 and still successfully read 12v. Therefore, the circuit is still being completed. Hopefully I didnt mess anything up too bad. The 12v was only in contact with W34 for a split second. Idk if that makes any difference.

I was by myself when i tested this afternoon, so i did not try cranking it, but I did open the afm flap and for some reason, still read 0.00 V.

I really do appreciate your help! I'll look into this and get back next time i'm at the garage.

I appreciate the help and the thorough answer. Im confused as to which numbered terminals I should be looking at. You say W48? I'm not seeing any numbers. Are they on the connectors? I assume im doing something wrong. And where exactly should I be touching the meter leads? I tested by connecting them to the two contacts on the air meter plug. I never read any voltage, even when I was lifting the door in the afm.

My fuel pump has never run correctly in my 1977 280z. Currently, I get no voltage coming off the wires leading up to the fuel pump when I crank. I swear I've read voltage off those wires before, but one day during the process of rebuilding, it just stopped. So what i've done is hard wired the pump to the battery with a switch in the middle and that's it. Is there any problem with this method? I just flip the switch and let the fuel pump run while running the engine. Ideally, I would like to fix this. I've read things about the fuel pump safety switch getting stuck and cutting off power. Is there anything else I could look into? How would I test this switch?

wasnt using those, just a standard wrench

I tried those. Maybe ill let it soak in some wd40 or sumn first

Yes, it has been sitting. I can confirm that the calipers are on the correct side. One of the two front calipers work. And it's hard to work on because I can't get it taken off the brake line. The bolt is stuck and stripped.

Spent some time working on my 1977 280z last night and was almost ready to drive it. Just had to tie off some loose ends and make sure that the brakes were operational. But that's the thing... the brakes DONT work. I can't seem to get any response from one of the front brake calipers. I can't collapse the pistons. I attempted to use a C clamp but to no avail. I ended up giving up on that and moved on to some other brake components. I recently installed a new master brake cylinder for the first time and it went reasonably smoothly. I filled the reservoir and began the process of bleeding the brakes. Only one of them bled. There's nothing coming out of the rears. The bleeding nut on the MC for the rears didn't release anything. Nor did the nut on the ceased caliper. After working on it for a while, the whole thing became a mess of stripped brake line nuts and ceased pistons. HELP.

What kinds of things are mounted? What gauge steel is used on the factory ones?

My 1977 280z appears to have been jacked up via the frame rail because it's all bent up. Looking to save some money on the replacement. Is it possible to fabricate my own frame rails and just cut out the damaged parts? I dont have much metal experience, but it seems like I could just use a metal brake and bend some sheet metal into the correct shape. Frame rails arent a particularly complicated shape.

1977

So ive been having trouble getting my fuel pump to work when plugged into the wiring harness. So i had to hardwire it straight to the battery with a switch in between. It wasnt a huge priority to fix but i've realized that my fuel gauge doesnt work either so im thinking theres a problem with the back end of the harness. I tested the connectors for the fuel pump that are under the passenger seat and was reading less than half a volt while the car was running. Any suggestions?

Ohhhhh ok that makes alot more sense. I thought those nuts were part of the bolt cuz I could NOT get them off lol Thanks!

is the hex nut thingy part of that screw? Or is is just a double threaded rod with a nut on it??

So there is a total of two nuts on the screw? Before AND after the fan base?

Take this with a grain of salt cuz i'm new to the datsun community and im trying to learn myself. But I make the same mistake, having the distributor on backwards. What I did was made sure that the sprockets and whatnot were in the correct timing position (TDC), then just did some trial and error. Barely turning the distributor and cranking... And so on. Eventually I found that "sweet spot" and tightened the distributor back down. But like i said, i have no clue what im doing haha.

Hey everyone! This might be a dumb question, but I'm doing my first L28 build and I cannot figure out how to get this radiator fan on for the life of me. It seems to be the pulley assembly and then the fan clutch that goes onto the end of the camshaft. Should be simple, but I cant figure out the order in which they need to be installed. It apparently uses some double threaded screws and some nuts but I just cant seem to get it. SMH.

Ohhh makes sense. I was just curious. Thanks!

I can attach photos later.

I have a 1977 Datsun 280z and I was surprised to see that my spare tire well is quite shallow. The tire sticks out past the bottom of the trunk bed and ios covered by a board. Oof hopefully that makes sense. What exactly is that? Cuz I know most cars have a deep wheel well that holds a full size tire.

Hi! So ive been having an issue getting my 1977 280z to start. I have spark, compression, and have been running fuel manually with an extra battery and test leads on the fuel pump. I think it sounds like the engines firing, but it just doesnt wanna turn over. Any suggestions?