K Koehn

SteveJ Im the original poster that had the 1975 280Z with the issue of it not staying running

Hello everyone, my apologies for not concluding on this issue, My issue ended up being the EFI control module itself, as well as a short near the ballast resistor. I hope this helps anyone in the future.

Ok, thank you

I checked that wire on the top of the starter and its was on tight, but it looks like my ignition coil is leaking now and the + and - sides aren't reading any voltage across eachother twice and the test light showed no power to that yellow wire going to the starter as well in the on position

I just went outside to check if I could hear clicking from the injectors just to start off, and now my car won't crank at all, only activates the fuel pump and the fuel regulator hiss in the fuel rail, but does not even crank over now, so I went over to the battery, it has 13 volts sitting, and 12 volts cranking, and the starter also has 12 volts sitting,and 12 volts even when cranking, should I try and just go for the ballast resistor and coil to start off testing? I didn't mess with anything prior to this just now happening, so its odd to me. Here's a photo of my resistor, the 1st terminal seems to be loose, as if its broken.

That helps alot! I really needed that manual, it really explains everything pretty simple, ill do those tests, I just got myself a new multimeter and test light

ill try that out if the other possibilities fail. Thank you.

Thats one thing I've always been afraid of, is that fuel indicator being wrong, but ill definitely keep all of that in mind, helps alot. I also wondered about my fuse links, I saw on the case of those links, one says BATT (Black) Ign (Green) but mine have a green and red fuse link, could this be an issue

I'd Really appreciate that, im gonna try to listen to those injectors and check all of those plugs, I would of by now, but, it is Very cold out all the time, and that Z is sitting outside, I have no garage sadly

Yes, the last that it ran was just a normal drive, I stopped at a braums, and went back to the car, and it just all of a sudden would not start. The last part I put on was a new water pump and fan clutch, the car got hot a few times due to a coolant hose at the radiator blowing off, it kept doing that, and damaged the old water pump in it, the fan clutch I chose to just replace with it, and a time before that, it had needed a new fuel pump relay, I bought that from Zcardepot, the car also had alot of flooding issues, which I may of found out, pulling its old injectors when I did,when it still wasn't running like it is now, one injector was broken. Ive cleaned the engine bay once or twice but not with any pressured water, just hand cleaned with some degreaser on the rag itself, which I did back when I 1st got it, and it had ran great after I replaced the water pump, for about 3 months I'd say, then it just died out of nowhere at braums. I also bought the Z running when I 1st got it, its immediate issue was that fuel pump relay. I found that out because I worked at a nissan as an oil change guy, the mechanics were willing to help a little, they said the past owner had one of the battery cable grounds wrong and it fried that relay, the relay even smoked too when it fried out. One other issue too, is that (when it was still driving) it would cut out and die while driving sometimes

Im not sure if they installed the right cap or rotor,is there a way to tell? I also don't know how to adjust or clean points as well, I'd Really like to know though, and Ive also been looking around locally for an inline fuel pressure gauge, haven't had any luck yet on that.

I tried spraying some starter fluid a few times and it helped it fire up,it still died out, but, a few times after it'd fire up without it, but lt might just be the Cold start injector firing it up like Zed Head mentioned. I've had my Z for only 10 months, and have had this issue since November 11th last year. Im really new to it still.

Yes, my tachometer works, and there is a blue wire in the bay, is that, that blue wire? When I 1st had this issue, I saw that blue wire just out in the open, and I put it up in that little spot right there above the injector not knowing what it did, its next to the thermostat housing

I hear a spray coming from the fuel rail area, I figured that was the injectors firing in there. I had no idea my 280 wasn't supposed to have points, what should my car have? I could use some help on that, ill also have a look at the spark plugs and ill listen in on the injectors

That distributor just what came with the car when I bought it, I never put it in or anything.

I actually don't know how to tell if the points are bad, I took a few pictures of the bottom of the cap and the rotor. I also have no idea how to set it to advanced timing too, its my first car, im really new to it, and here's a picture if you can tell it looks stuck on the AFM, I tried moving it a little and nothing seems to look stuck

Hello, Im new to this forum, I have a 1975 280Z 4 speed which will crank and start but only for a second or 2, if I apply any throttle, it just immediately dies, and sometimes to keep it running, I have to hold the key to make it run longer until it just eventually dies anyway, Ive put in a new rust free fuel tank, all new rubber fuel hoses from rear to front, new fuel pump, blew compressed air through all of the steel lines including the fuel rail, replaced injectors with new ones, new fuel pressure regulator, new fuel filters (one in engine bay and one in line next to the fuel tank and fuel pump), new battery, new cold start injector, new thermotime/water temp sensor, new water pump, new fan clutch, new NGK spark plugs,new fuel injection relay, new ignition coil, new air filter, fresh oil and gas, all new vapor hoses, new ECU, Ive checked for binding in the AFM's flap, no binding, and it triggers the injectors and pump, Ive cleaned the AFM's fuel pump contact points, and can confirm the fuel pump is getting power, I disconnected the starter to see if I could hear it at crank, and the pump hums when cranked, and the injectors spray as well, and the pump is getting full power at its connections, I disconnected a fuel hose while someone cranked it and it has fuel pressure, the car can start several times but just keep dying, and even more so if I even touch my throttle ,and its not draining my battery much, stays at 12-13 volts even with it dying out. Something else is just killing it, Im just not sure what in the world it could be, im not good at wiring, and im fairly new to working on cars all around too, 4 years at most, I also have an FSM but just can't figure it out, I could really use some help, needing it fixed badly. I also haven't replaced my fusible links, alternator, starter, distributor, distributor cap, spark plug wires, or voltage regulator