z8987

What is the coating on the fuel control linkage? Can a powder coating company replace it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What am I checking for? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It looks like my water pump is leaking. I'm getting ready to remove it and figure out what the problem is. I hope my video will allow somebody to affirm or not that it's my water pump? Also, any tricks to remove and replace? I'm sure those bolts have been in there for years, and probably need to be finessed? Any tips are welcome? IMG_7903.MOV

Great points, thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What about a buffer, something like this? https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-buffer-61557.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What's the best way to clean this up. I'm not sure that I want it to shine, unless that's the only choice.

That's what I thought. Thank you.

Which of these is correct for a 70 series 1? I put the silver one on the more complete car. black.heic silver.heic

All my brake problems are fixed. I'm not sure what happened to the rear wheel that was locking up. After I freed it with a screw driver and removing the wheel, there were no more problems with that. I don't know if it got stuck when I used the e-brake, or something else, but after freeing it, all the problems went away. I attached two videos. PreFix.mov, this one I jacked up the front of the car and spun the tire, the brakes rubbed a little, this was prior to making changes to the master cylinder. After reconfiguring my master cylinder with the larger reservoir servicing the front I jacked it up and did the same thing and the brakes weren't rubbing. The second test was done after bleeding the brakes and driving the car for about 80 miles. A great day driving around. Just sharing, my results. postfix.movPreFix.mov

I put about 80 miles on the new Z today. New to me, of course. What a blast. This is the best therapy there is.

I only use wilwood because of their reputation with brakes. If I could contact the engineer that made the m/c for these cars, that would be better. I bet there are docs somewhere that discuss that m/c design. I'm just looking for data to help me make a decision. I'm there now.

Did you read the wilwood data sheet above? Page 2 is pretty clear. My other z i removed the m/c and turned it around 180 degrees, then I connected the lines and slowly turned it back around and plugged it back into the booster. Tonight I did the new z a different way. I loosened the m/c and removed both lines and reversed them. I had to spend some time on it getting them bent correctly and it’s a much better fit. Another thing, before I disconnected my front brakes from the m/c, I jacked it up and I spun the tire, the brakes were rubbing. When I disconnected the m/c to the front brakes the brakes quit rubbing. Tomorrow I’ll bleed the brakes and see if the front brakes are still rubbing. Another thing with the left rear drum, I pressurized the system to 15 psi, and turned the bleeder and I got fluid out of it. I’m a little confused about this, but I’ll dig back into it when I get my brakes bled. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

This is the image of the M/C sold on ZcarDepot . I contacted wilwood technical support to see what they have to say about master cylinders and disc/drum brakes. His response was absolutely, f/r makes a difference. Page two of the master cylinder data sheet ds439.pdf explains the residual pressure valve and how it's necessary for the rear brakes and not for the front brakes. I'm sold. I think I'll go with the Wilwood explanation. ds439.pdf

I’m sorry I’ve tied two issues to one thread. I tried what you suggested and there was no change. That was the first thing I did. I don’t think the m/c issue has anything to do with the brake locking up. I just came across it during my troubleshooting and brought it up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I might agree with you. The information I found mostly on this site is how I came up with this. It’s my understanding that the rear brakes require 10 psi of constant pressure, the front brakes do not. It’s also my understanding that the master cylinder is what maintains the 10 psi for the rear brakes but does not maintain constant pressure for the front brakes. If this is true and the brake lines are reversed, then a constant pressure of 10 psi will be on the front brakes and none on the back. The same thing was said in the referring pages I found above. At least that’s how I interpreted it. It doesn’t make sense to me that a manufacturer would label a product front (f) and rear ® if it doesn’t matter. I have very little experience with this, but I did run into this problem in the past. I’m not here to be right, I’m here to learn. If I’m wrong, that tells me to dig deeper. I don’t know what to look for next. Zedhead, what is wrong with analysis and conclusion? I’m honestly here to learn. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1. My left rear drum was stuck. I found today that no fluids come out of the brake cylinder when it's pressurized and I open the bleeder. 2. I also discovered that my master cylinder is not connected to the differential switch as it should be. I started tracking all of this here. For me at this point it's the same issue. I have noticed the front brakes dragging which can be caused by #2 above. I believe getting my master cylinder / differential switch setup properly.

The last post in this thread by beermanpete explains how the master cylinder functions and why the lines from the master cylinder need to go to the proper area on the differential switch in the engine compartment. The master cylinder for sale at zcardepot also explains what's going on. https://zcardepot.com/products/brake-master-cylinder-1-wilwood-240z-260z-280z

I use a pressure tank at the master cylinder to simulate pressing the pedal, and yes. That pressure bottle saved my marriage. LoL The pressure differential switch has a line to each front brake and only has one line going to the back where it connects to a proportioning valve. This makes me believe that master cylinders are marked for a reason. All the lines are the same diameter, so that makes me think the back brakes may possibly require half the pressure? FYI - I learned that the "Differential Switch" is what the master cylinder is connected to in the engine compartment. The proportioning valve is mounted in the back of the car and controls the the volume of brake fluid to the calipers.

Nothing comes out of the bleeder. Is this a rebuild or replace? I don’t want to take things apart until I know where I’m going. Is this brake cylinder more current than a 1970? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My other series one it was suggested to swap the lines. The easiest way to do that was to take the master cylinder off and connect the lines the proper way, then turn the master cylinder slowly sound until you can get it into the booster. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anybody know where I can get caps for the brake lines? Both female and male. Or maybe know the language I would use to search or order caps? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s definitely an R. are you saying it doesn’t matter?

Here's what I discovered today. The first photo below shows the master cylinder with the smaller reservoir near the front of the master cylinder. The second photo shows an R on the front of the master cylinder. The third photo show the rear pressure line from the master cylinder going to the portion of the brake warning switch that services the front brakes. Whoever replaced the new master cylinder didn't know that the new master cylinder was reversed and didn't reverse the lines. I don't know if this is what cause my left rear wheel to lock up. Any thoughts on this? Is it critical that the front brakes are fed by the section labeled front on the master cylinder, it seems like they wouldn't waste their time labeling the master cylinder if it wasn't necessary ? Did I see this correctly ?

I like that.